jep32

Just bought a mint S2 that has been sitting in a garage in Monterey, CA for 21 years. I am going to change the oil in a couple weeks and I am looking for some input. I have read that I need 10W-40 vs 20W-50 during a winter near Philadelphia due to the cold. I also read the it is necessary to either add an additive or use a racing oil such as valvoline VR1 with a high zinc content to appropriately lubricate the valves and tappets. I also read that I should have a Mahle OC142 filter (there is currently a purolator on there ).. Thoughts/insight/recommendations?

Also, anyone know of a good mechanic to get a belt re-tension and cam pads in the DE/PA/NJ tri-state area (near Philadelphia, Pa)

Thanks

racer

Mahle is the OEM style filter and one that I too would recommend.

The reason to change to 10W-40 from 20W-50 is because, in laymans tems, it "pours" easier in cold temps. 20W-50 becomes like molasses when cold. This can cause undue diress for the oil pump as well as leave critical components without the lubrication that they need during start up.

Hopefully you have your owners manual. Back then, Porsche actually added useful "maintenance" information for the owner, rather than simply saying "take to a dealer". It should have a chart or two about preferred based on typical outside temp ranges.

While many oils have reduced their ZINC content, there are still others that have not, such as Brad Penn Motor oils, perhaps also Royal Purple? Taking the time to read the label would help.

I haven't seen documented proof of zinc issues... Folks feared the loss of lead in gasoline in the early 1980s and while yes, there were cases of concern, it didn't really do as much damage (lack of lead) as feared. Part of me thinks this "zinc" issue could be similar. The interweb loves to exagerate issues

gtroth

Welcome aboard!
Before you start that car change the timing and balance belts and service the cam chain tensioner.
No exceptions.
Sitting for 21 years - yikes.
I might even pull the DME relay and crank it for a while after the oil change - oil it up more slowly. I woulnd't like it revving at idle while so completely dry.
Porsche is now recommending 0W40 or 5w40 for our cars, btw.

Tom R.

10 40 or 20 50 is what i ran in my 3 S2s. i would put synthetic 20 50 in it for year round and not worry. add a can of stp and you have enough zinc according to stp from what i read in the pontiac club magazine.

45k, wow, that's great. enjoy it.

ernie9468

Welcome to our world ,21 years sitting, LOL don't even think of moving it unless like mention belts/ tensioner /pads & chain as been check & that ASP.Like racer said Mahle is what you want on your car for piece of mind, oil 10w40 winter-20w50 summer .We are pics addicts here so if possible could we get some.

Peter 642

Regarding a shop, take a look at the regional Porsche Club newsletters. You'll find a few ads in there, and you can ask around on the boards or via the PCA tech editor. I know the area but I can't quote quality of the work there, so I won't.

J.Khan

I know a shop in Kutztown, PA (about 15-20 mins out of Allentown). They work on my 951 and many other 944 NA's, S2's. Their specialty is 911's but they know 944's better than anyone around this area, as far as I know. I highly recommend this shop for any major work you are looking to do on your S2. Fairly simple drive from Philadelphia area. PM me and I will send you info

Darwantae951

PICTURES!

ritzblitz

I had my car aligned at this shop, if its the same one. Is it John Butz?

If you're gonna drive to kutztown, also consider Phil's Automotive in Macungie PA.

944CS

Phil's is in Emmaus

but to the OP, give Phil a call, 610.967.5754

onspeed

21 years.... sitting the entire time? or occasionally driven? like to update the stickers or anything?

J.Khan

Yep John Butz's shop is what/where I was referring to.

DHC6

Welcome to the addiction!!! Part of your new addiction is show us addicts some PICTURES!!! Sounds like a nice car, but beware of dried out seals as well. First check what the others have suggested, other wise your engine may implode... and also check all your seals, and boots (CV, Tie rod end boots). Better to change a boot now, then have to change the whole part because of a crack/old boot and then the part gets contaminated and fails. Also have a look at your suspension bushings (i.e. your front lower control arm bushings), and last but not least have a good look/tug at your ball joints, not fun if it fails. A sitting car can sometimes be worse then a car that has been neglected, so could be a diamond in the rough, but just watch out! Some preventative maintenance, and inspection can go a long way on these cars. Enjoy, and looking forward to seeing some pictures of your car. I have the same car, and I love it.

jep32

All, thanks for all the insight. When I say garaged, it was driven a bit each year. Carfax actually shows a steady progression of miles from 30K to 44K after 1993. The belts/rollers, etc have been changed in July and the cam chain guides (pads) were checked at the same time. I consulted the mechanic who performed the work and he said they (the pads) were in good shape. Plugs, cap wires and oil change were also completed then. A retension of the belts (as I have 1200 miles or so) and the 944.105.949.00 kit on the tensioner are on my short list to get done, hence the question on the mechanic. Kutztown is about 2.5 hours for me as I am closer to the Delaware side, but I will save this name for the larger items. I have driven it for about a month...and it runs strong.....air is even cold as well. Oil still looks clean and it hasn't burned any since the change. I did take the car to a local mechanic, he listened to the engine and suggested a re-tension wasn't necessary.....it sounded perfect. I like doing maintenance by the book, so my search continues for the right place to take it.

Havent taken any photos yet.....but a very, very clean car.

PS....how do the plug wires detach from the cam cover? Threaded or just cupped at the bottom? Does this plastic peice pull straight out? One of them is cracked at the platic elbow...no degredation to the performance, but I'd like to replace it. I imagine I need to buy the set of 4.

ernie9468

PS....how do the plug wires detach from the cam cover? Threaded or just cupped at the bottom? Does this plastic peice pull straight out? One of them is cracked at the platic elbow...no degredation to the performance, but I'd like to replace it. I imagine I need to buy the set of 4.[/QUOTE]
They are the pull -push type ,grab them firmly & just pull easy & straigth on them they should come out, before I do install new one I always lubricate the cup on top so that they're easier to remove when come time to change the spark plugs.Sending you a pic of what they look like.As you can see they're quiet long hence the extra care when removing & installing them back.Whatever brand you got on there I sugest you go with the same ,usually they come OE with either Bosche or Beru ,I got Beru on my 968 with close to 82 klms a little over 50k miles on them & there in perfect shape.