I have an '87 n/a. I replaced all my hoses, thermostat, and coolant. Have tried to insure that I don't have air in the system but it still seems to run too hot. I suspect something wrong with the thermostat installation. Of course, there is the dreaded snap ring. But I remember getting a big fat o-ring with the new thermostat that didn't work. In the housing was a thin rubber ring that I left alone.

What do you guys think? I'm ready to take it all apart and start over if need be.
TIA Curtis

 

Are you sure the car is running hot? May well be a temp sender with corroded connections. Also could be a bad ground.

 

Fans operating correctly?
Temperature switch?
I am sure you checked it, but nevertheless...
TakeCare

 

I second the reply for the fans, try turning on the AC when you see the temp start to rise a bit, this should turn both fans on simultaneously, if this doesn't cool it off fairly quickly then look towards the thermostat/ other water cooling. If turning the AC on doesn't actuate both fans look into that.

my .02 from a prior overheating 83

 

It could be your coolant reservoir cap. If the seal is shot the system will not hold pressure, the boiling point of your coolant will drop, the coolant will boil over, and you will get air in the system.

 

Having recently lost my H2O pump, you should also verify that it's working properly.
-Z.

 

Oldguy,

Just been through this with my '83, and like everyone else who's replied so far, I overlooked the obvious: cooling fan relay.

Give it a shot. About $42.00 at an import auto parts store, but well worth it if it works!

HTH

 

Don't overlook the radiator. Last summer I went through the same thing. Waterpump was fine, replaced the thermostat, fans doing what their supposed to do, bled all the air out and I still ran hot. The radiator visualy looked fine but deep down she was plugged. I know it's a bitch but I also ran without the thermostat just to prove myself right/wrong. No air, no thermostat, pump pumping, both fans on high, plenty of water equals clogged radiator. Do you have cold spots on the radiator or lower hose while your motor is running hot? That could be a sign.

nh3

 

Hummm, clogged radiator? I wonder. Could be. Forgot to mention that I did replace my temperature sender, I've been through every ground on the car (no kidding), fans come on as they should, I put on a new coolant reservoir cap too.

If I pull the radiator, can it be cleaned at a radiator shop effectively? Also, how would I check to make sure the water pump is working?

Thanks for the replies!

 

[quote]Originally posted by Luis de Prat:
<strong>Oldguy,

Just been through this with my '83, and like everyone else who's replied so far, I overlooked the obvious: cooling fan relay.

Give it a shot. About $42.00 at an import auto parts store, but well worth it if it works!

HTH</strong><hr></blockquote>

Where could I find the relay? Can that be tested to see if its working properly?

 

With regards to the seal inside the pump; mine was creeping up to the middle and then going to the upper white mark when I would stop, since I have a oil cooled turbo, I let my car idle for a bit after stopping. Anyway I knew something was wrong(new radiator, new fan switch, relay, new N/A expansion tank); well my inner seal was missing "chunks" all around it. Replaced that alone, thermostat was less than year old(no I didn't replace that seal when I did it duh..) and now it runs on the first white mark and just barely goes higher when I stop and when the fans kick on you can watch the gauge movement. When the thermostat opens it seals against that seal to close the port otherwise you'll circulate a bit of water inside the pump itself.

 

[quote]Originally posted by Tim Strayer:
<strong>Where could I find the relay? Can that be tested to see if its working properly?</strong><hr></blockquote>

I just bought the relay at an import parts shop and it worked for me. I didn't try testing it first because it was clicking badly and I knew it was burnt, but you can do this by bridging the circuit at the fuse box to see if the fans spin.

A lister on the E-mail lists just posted the procedure to test the relay. This is really the way to go because I know my relay was malfunctioning LONG before it started to burn out. I had taken it apart and it looked normal.

To test it, you remove the relay and bridge the fast-speed circuit at the fuse box to see if the fans spin (if hot enough, or bridge the fan switch too). Its the middle right and middle left poles on relay 944.615.113.01. I can ask the #s for you but his recollection was that it was #30 pole and #87. It wont cost you anything to test.

If it's bad, be sure to buy the correct relay. There's another cooling fan relay with part number 141951253B which is much cheaper, but it won't work on your car if you have air conditioning.

HTH

 

[quote]Originally posted by Luis de Prat:
<strong>

I just bought the relay at an import parts shop and it worked for me. I didn't try testing it first because it was clicking badly and I knew it was burnt, but you can do this by bridging the circuit at the fuse box to see if the fans spin.

A lister on the E-mail lists just posted the procedure to test the relay. This is really the way to go because I know my relay was malfunctioning LONG before it started to burn out. I had taken it apart and it looked normal.

To test it, you remove the relay and bridge the fast-speed circuit at the fuse box to see if the fans spin (if hot enough, or bridge the fan switch too). Its the middle right and middle left poles on relay 944.615.113.01. I can ask the #s for you but his recollection was that it was #30 pole and #87. It wont cost you anything to test.

If it's bad, be sure to buy the correct relay. There's another cooling fan relay with part number 141951253B which is much cheaper, but it won't work on your car if you have air conditioning.

HTH</strong><hr></blockquote>

Thanks man!

 

Ski, Thanks, Mine is doing the same thing.. will open it up to make sure that this seal was changed.