BoostBuggy

With all due respect 86 951 Driver, (and I don't want to get into a pissing match) IMHO your comment about having the frame on the car before putting the glass in makes no sense and is contrary to how they were assembled in the first place. The glass and frame came as a unit and the unit was then attached to the body. I was told by the pro that when one of these had a broken glass hatch, the glass shop order a new hatch and it all came together. They just bolted it on the car and alingned it. They never went through the process he did on mine as it was far to labor intensive and insurance wouldn't pay for all the labor. It was cheaper and easier just to get a new hatch.

When the pro did it for me (and again, this guy has over 30 year expereince with auto glass. One would think he might just know something the rest of us don't) he did it completely OFF the car. Didn't even need the car to stay at the shop while the hatch was being repaired. I had no issue adjusting the hatch to operate perfectly once all was done and remounted to the body.

As to your comment that you used clamps at the top and yours is still sealed, then good for you. That is EXACTLY what Cole and I both did and both hatches still came apart.

YMMV

86 951 Driver

I would like to update this thread. Just recently my hatch split yet again. I'm not sure what to do. I would like to find a way to get my hatch to straighten on the one side. One side split while the other side is still holding great.

Anyone try this method using 3m 5200?

CyCloNe!

I totally went ghetto for my reseal... My glass seperate just at the top, so I put the trunk shocks on to keep the glass seperated. I then removed some of the old adhesive, wiped clean with windex and then applied the new 3m windsheild adhesive. After that I removed the shocks, placed a towel on my glass and a few concrete blocks lol.

Any who it's sealed, I haven't put the shocks on though out of fear of it seperating lol.

ThirdPedal

So, I decided to not fight the bend in the hatch, and embrace it. I left the shocks attached to the hatch, opened it up, scraped out some of the old adhesive, and pumped it full of 3M window weld across the top. Then I closed the hatch and ran a bead along the top between the frame and the glass again (with the trim strip removed). I let it sit that way for a week or so (with the shocks attached to put the hatch in it's stressed state). My thought is that there was too much being expected of the adhesive, and it couldn't take it. So by removing the stress when applying the adhesive, it should last longer. That was in January, and it hasn't separated yet (unlike my first attempt that separated within a week). I just drove home from work (30 miles)in the worst rain I've seen in a while and it's bone dry on the inside. It's not really 100% "fixing" the problem, but it's a great solution.

86 951 Driver

Does your hatch rattle at all using this "fix"? Did it rattle before at all. Thats what I hate about mine.

ThirdPedal

Mine rattled a tad, but now it makes no noise whatsoever. Essentially with my method, you're no longer forcing the adhesive to hold the frame to the glass. Instead, you're filling the gap with adhesive. It makes sense logically, works well, and takes little time to do. Honestly, you don't have much to lose at this point.

The correct method would be to remove the glass completely from the frame, and spend some time straightening the frame (I'm not sure how you'd even do that).

kens_74911s

This is NEW

check this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ml#post8450832
I am looking for some latches with no bushings to start an exchange process until I get my tooling dialed in.

Mike C.

I think you're on to something ThirdPedal. If you aren't going to remove the glass and do it right it probably will last longer doing it your way.

whalebird

Ken's...I have two extra sets of latches, all aquired cheaply in search of bushings. One thing I've noticed is that the two extra sets have a "single" lobster claw, and my factory set(87 924S) has two "claws". I don't know if this is of signifigance, but I am curious when/why a change took place. I think my original two-claw latches may have been over-tightened at some point creating a bind, especially when its cold outside. I've soaked and cleaned them as best I can as they cannot be opened up(appearently).

mytrplseven

By Jobe, I think you've got it. I have used the 3m 5200 for years in my marine repair business and if I can clean out the old primer and adhesive without pulling the hatch, etching the glass and then resealing while it's under stress, that may well be the "secret to the monastery wine". If I can just figure out how to get that little trim strip off without chipping the paint in that small channel, I'll be in business. that 3m stuff is unbelievably strong and everlasting.

kens_74911s

In parting down these 944s I have 3 hatches now, all with failed frame to glass bond at hinge area. I thought one was still good until I had a buyer come and check it out. We carefully flipped it over and did some pressing on the glass while the hatch was up side down on a bench. The glass was up tight but not bonded.
After a discussion with my potential buyer he revealed he had done the re sealing twice on his hatch only to have the same glass to frame bond failure. We concluded that ideally if the glass at least in that area could be etched (masked and sand blasted) it would allow the adhesive to get a better grip as the adhesives always failed on the glass side of the bond. We also concluded that the bond was almost indestructible at the lower edges likely due to the UV protection that the rubber spoiler/lip provides and lower stress in that area.
If it was not such a pain to ship these I would consider doing the etch mod on all 3 of these hatches and structure them for resale. Good bonded hatches seem to be hard to come by and pull a premium. Not looking forward to separating the frame in lower areas and do have my hand full with other projects so I may offer them up as is. It would be a great project if someone is interested. It would probably cost the same to ship all three as it would to just ship one on a pallet.

whalebird

Kens...I am still interested in the delrin bushings. I think they may have a purpose in this thread as they help isolate the glass/frame when closed.
As for the etching, I bought a little bottle of liquid etching from a craft supply store, I havn't tryed it yet, but it looks promising. I do think this is the key to making this simple procedure last.
I'll keep you posted...

kens_74911s

I have 8 sets of latches now as donors to start the bushing replacement process - One set I received had the same single claw. Best I can conclude it may be an early design (944/1). All of the dual claw latches seemed to loosen up after soaking in mineral sprits for a day or so then operating them – re soaking any that were still not freely snapping back closed. I see Ian 944partsonline sells early (944/1) and late (944/2) latches using different part numbers the pins also seem to have changed ( 944/1) has a slot in the tip. The design with cone and slot may have been influenced by some of the early Porsche VW(and BMW) hood trunk latches. I do remember seeing the cone with slot before and the hood/trunk latches had a single claw connected to cable for manual operation. Due to the gas shocks on the hatch it could be that Porsche was looking for a more positive grab on the latch pin in later years.

whalebird

I think you're probably right. My 2-claw latches seem a little sticky when its cold outside. I have soaked and cleaned them like yourself. What I have noticed is that they will work fine when the mounting nuts are losened. For me, when in the "stuck open" position, I can loosen the mounting nuts and they will suddenly snap closed. My driver side is the main culprit. What I think has happened here is that they were over tightened at some point and slightly "crushed" inside. When they are mounted tight enough to hold there position, they may stick open, loosen them to work freely and they are too loose to stay in place. My point being that there may be a possibility that these latches can be internally damaged by overtightening the mounting hardware, and one would not know it until its mounted on the car.
I still have a couple of extra sets of single-claw latches if you would like them.