View Poll Results: street combo; de-stroked LS7 388 c.i. vs LS3 376 c.i.; which would you run ?
LS3 376 c.i. (Crate Engine Depot); $7,300 (see top of page 4)...
27
60.00%
LS7 block w/ ls3 crank @ 388 c.i., LS3 heads/intake LS7 cam; $9,900.
18
40.00%
Voters: 45. You may not vote on this poll
LS1 swap/parts/LSD transmissions...
07-06-2014, 03:09 PM
#76
Team Owner
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
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update:
thanks you all who've contacted or posted expressing interest for getting multiple gauge clusters done and available for purchase!!
I'd like to present my 944/968/928 GT style instrument cluster....
it started when I began attempting to set up an attractive cluster to go with the 200mph 4" Porsche/VDO-style GPS speedo...
and i basically ended up here.
adding to the inspiration was the desire to have everything as close to center as possible...
amazing isn't it that Porsche was so lazy (even with the 928GTS)...
I mean, they're effing PORSCHE for Christ's sakes...
and in a 20 year span, they built about, 270,000 front-engine/2-door/rear-hatch cars...
and, some of them are still on the roads and they go fast.
If you all like it and any of you are interested in having this cluster made available on a nice carbon backing,
for a reasonable price, we can set up a group buy.
it has 9 functions, not including no more messing with old, speedo/odometer gears and built in false speed defect.
I hope you all like it....
*we can also do a variation with the tach in the center position instead of 1 1/2" left of center (scroll to my next post)....
we can do metric, or swap out a few things, such as having a boost gauge in place of the clock.
and of course, you can choose any number of bezel styles.
.
thanks you all who've contacted or posted expressing interest for getting multiple gauge clusters done and available for purchase!!
I'd like to present my 944/968/928 GT style instrument cluster....
it started when I began attempting to set up an attractive cluster to go with the 200mph 4" Porsche/VDO-style GPS speedo...
and i basically ended up here.
adding to the inspiration was the desire to have everything as close to center as possible...
amazing isn't it that Porsche was so lazy (even with the 928GTS)...
I mean, they're effing PORSCHE for Christ's sakes...
and in a 20 year span, they built about, 270,000 front-engine/2-door/rear-hatch cars...
and, some of them are still on the roads and they go fast.
If you all like it and any of you are interested in having this cluster made available on a nice carbon backing,
for a reasonable price, we can set up a group buy.
it has 9 functions, not including no more messing with old, speedo/odometer gears and built in false speed defect.
I hope you all like it....
*we can also do a variation with the tach in the center position instead of 1 1/2" left of center (scroll to my next post)....
we can do metric, or swap out a few things, such as having a boost gauge in place of the clock.
and of course, you can choose any number of bezel styles.
.
Last edited by odurandina; 07-07-2014 at 03:28 PM.
07-06-2014, 04:04 PM
#78
Team Owner
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
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yeah, that's what I wanted too.... went back and forth,
but, I couldn't figure out where to put the speedo after that, and then, balance out the rest of the instruments.
the first images are my basic layout for what I think works well with the 4" tach and speedo...
below is one example of what the finished product might look like on a single cutout after card backings or clear laminate stickers are laid down..... this one uses the 4" tach with 3 3/8" gps speedo..... the backing can be sheet aluminum or black, depending on what people would individually want.
really good stuff.
next, the bezels would be laid over the cluster and also function as the border between the sheet aluminum and carbon fiber....
after connecting in the sending units,
the board would slide into the 944/968 or 928 cluster cave.
.
but, I couldn't figure out where to put the speedo after that, and then, balance out the rest of the instruments.
the first images are my basic layout for what I think works well with the 4" tach and speedo...
below is one example of what the finished product might look like on a single cutout after card backings or clear laminate stickers are laid down..... this one uses the 4" tach with 3 3/8" gps speedo..... the backing can be sheet aluminum or black, depending on what people would individually want.
really good stuff.
next, the bezels would be laid over the cluster and also function as the border between the sheet aluminum and carbon fiber....
after connecting in the sending units,
the board would slide into the 944/968 or 928 cluster cave.
.
Last edited by odurandina; 07-07-2014 at 05:11 PM.
07-07-2014, 12:40 AM
#83
How would the wiring work? Integrated to stock harness, or custom runs to new sensors?
How does the GPS Speedo work? Would this mean installing something that has the guts of a Garmin, but with no direction or maps?
I like the first one. Lose the clock and squeeze in a boost gauge, and I'd prefer the voltmeter to be analog as well. It might make the outermost circles a little crowded with three dials each, but I think I could get used to it.
How does the GPS Speedo work? Would this mean installing something that has the guts of a Garmin, but with no direction or maps?
I like the first one. Lose the clock and squeeze in a boost gauge, and I'd prefer the voltmeter to be analog as well. It might make the outermost circles a little crowded with three dials each, but I think I could get used to it.
07-07-2014, 08:18 AM
#84
Three Wheelin'
As always OD you have done a better than I imagined possible. I prefer second one but would take either happily. Im in for a metric version.
Bumflick
GPS speedo's just need a GPS antenna that can see the sky and power. All Satnavs are the same, so very easy to hook up. I leave my Alpine double din sat nav stereo on speedo screen all the time, so I have an accurate speedo, and it also gives me warnings if exceed speed limit(essential down here
).
Bumflick
GPS speedo's just need a GPS antenna that can see the sky and power. All Satnavs are the same, so very easy to hook up. I leave my Alpine double din sat nav stereo on speedo screen all the time, so I have an accurate speedo, and it also gives me warnings if exceed speed limit(essential down here
).
07-07-2014, 09:52 AM
#85
Team Owner
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
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CP,
as always, thanks a ton for the kind words of encouragement and support.
I don't see that having the boost gauge on this cluster would present much of a problem.
as always, thanks a ton for the kind words of encouragement and support.
How would the wiring work? Integrated to stock harness, or custom runs to new sensors?
How does the GPS Speedo work? Would this mean installing something that has the guts of a Garmin, but with no direction or maps?
I like the first one. Lose the clock and squeeze in a boost gauge, and I'd prefer the voltmeter to be analog as well. It might make the outermost circles a little crowded with three dials each, but I think I could get used to it.
How does the GPS Speedo work? Would this mean installing something that has the guts of a Garmin, but with no direction or maps?
I like the first one. Lose the clock and squeeze in a boost gauge, and I'd prefer the voltmeter to be analog as well. It might make the outermost circles a little crowded with three dials each, but I think I could get used to it.
07-07-2014, 02:46 PM
#87
Racer
I am sure you will get lots of interest, if I wasn't trying to keep my low mileage car pretty stock, I would jump all over it, maybe when I get another one that has more mileage on and I can build it out as I want you will have this out for sale! 
07-07-2014, 05:20 PM
#88
Team Owner
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
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keep in mind, after easy removal, you can mothball the oem cluster until the day comes that you sell the car.
edit to post #78:
the first images are my basic layout for what I think works well with the 4" tach and speedo...
the next image is an example of what the finished product might look like, (in this case) on a single cutout after card backings or clear laminate decals are laid down..... this one uses the 4" tach with 3 3/8" gps speedo..... the backing can be sheet aluminum, black or white, depending on what people would individually want.
really good stuff.
next, the bezels would be laid over the cluster and also function as the border between the sheet aluminum and carbon fiber....
after connecting in the sending units,
the board would slide into the 944/968 or 928 cluster cave.
maybe we can put down a card for the existing speedo, but you'd have to remove the needle and re-install it on the new cluster board... keep in mind, the vdo speedo needle is extremely delicate; handle with extreme caution.
if in fact, we end up going to one large board instead of individual dials.
I'm still in the early stages with the fabricator.
edit to post #78:
the first images are my basic layout for what I think works well with the 4" tach and speedo...
the next image is an example of what the finished product might look like, (in this case) on a single cutout after card backings or clear laminate decals are laid down..... this one uses the 4" tach with 3 3/8" gps speedo..... the backing can be sheet aluminum, black or white, depending on what people would individually want.
really good stuff.
next, the bezels would be laid over the cluster and also function as the border between the sheet aluminum and carbon fiber....
after connecting in the sending units,
the board would slide into the 944/968 or 928 cluster cave.
if in fact, we end up going to one large board instead of individual dials.
I'm still in the early stages with the fabricator.
Last edited by odurandina; 07-08-2014 at 09:07 AM.
07-07-2014, 07:24 PM
#89
Instructor
Join Date: Jun 2014
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I like the first one, #76, best of the bunch. But I do have some comments.
First, the fuel gauge. I guess the "4/4" and "2/4" is a Porsche thing, and sticking to the Porsche way is nice and all, although a bit dubious when the thread itself is about converting to a Chevy V8. How about doing "F", "1/2", and "E"?
Next, the speedometer. I have two comments about it. First, 200mph looks nice and all, and I'm sure that with the right gearing and a higher-end V8, it might be possible for a 944 to come near it. But the vast majority will never come close to it. In fact, most of us will never come close to 180, and I doubt many of us will get up to 160 that often. Now, to be clear, I'm looking at this from a street driver point of view; racers will feel differently, I'm sure. But as a street driver, I'd prefer a speedo with a lower top end, which stretches out the range, making it more precise.
My other concern about the speedo is making it GPS-based. I have never seen a GPS unit give a speed reading anywhere near as quickly and accurately as an actual speedometer can. Imagine accelerating to 80mph from a stop. If the needle is being controlled by a signal from a GPS sensor, I imagine the needle first suddenly jumping to 20mph, staying there for a brief moment, then jumping suddenly to 40mph, staying there for another moment, and so on and so on. At least, that's what I see the numbers do on any GPS device I've ever used, maybe not those exact numbers but you get the idea. It updates every second, or every other second, and is frequently a few seconds behind what you're actually doing. Maybe I'm using older GPSs or something, but I've never seen one that would even come close to replacing an actual vehicle-based speed sensor.
Finally, I'd like to comment on some of the other gauges, in particular the water temperature gauge, and this might apply to some others as well. Personally, I'd prefer to have no dampening in the gauges, I'd want them to show what the actual value is at any given moment. If I'm idling, and rev up to 6000 and let it drop, I should see a brief blip in the water temp. Same thing for oil pressure and temperature, if you do something that causes them to change, even for an instant, you should see that change in the needle, not have momentary changes filtered out by the dampening.
First, the fuel gauge. I guess the "4/4" and "2/4" is a Porsche thing, and sticking to the Porsche way is nice and all, although a bit dubious when the thread itself is about converting to a Chevy V8. How about doing "F", "1/2", and "E"?
Next, the speedometer. I have two comments about it. First, 200mph looks nice and all, and I'm sure that with the right gearing and a higher-end V8, it might be possible for a 944 to come near it. But the vast majority will never come close to it. In fact, most of us will never come close to 180, and I doubt many of us will get up to 160 that often. Now, to be clear, I'm looking at this from a street driver point of view; racers will feel differently, I'm sure. But as a street driver, I'd prefer a speedo with a lower top end, which stretches out the range, making it more precise.
My other concern about the speedo is making it GPS-based. I have never seen a GPS unit give a speed reading anywhere near as quickly and accurately as an actual speedometer can. Imagine accelerating to 80mph from a stop. If the needle is being controlled by a signal from a GPS sensor, I imagine the needle first suddenly jumping to 20mph, staying there for a brief moment, then jumping suddenly to 40mph, staying there for another moment, and so on and so on. At least, that's what I see the numbers do on any GPS device I've ever used, maybe not those exact numbers but you get the idea. It updates every second, or every other second, and is frequently a few seconds behind what you're actually doing. Maybe I'm using older GPSs or something, but I've never seen one that would even come close to replacing an actual vehicle-based speed sensor.
Finally, I'd like to comment on some of the other gauges, in particular the water temperature gauge, and this might apply to some others as well. Personally, I'd prefer to have no dampening in the gauges, I'd want them to show what the actual value is at any given moment. If I'm idling, and rev up to 6000 and let it drop, I should see a brief blip in the water temp. Same thing for oil pressure and temperature, if you do something that causes them to change, even for an instant, you should see that change in the needle, not have momentary changes filtered out by the dampening.
07-07-2014, 09:36 PM
#90
Team Owner
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
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its not D9. we're just in the early stages, getting feedback from you all.
but it's gonna happen.
btw, what's your timetable??