Belt Tension Trouble...Back Running!
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I'm having a real difficult time getting my cambelt to consistency measure the same tension. I have the 9201 tool, but I just can't get the tension right. I did the balance belt no problem.
My main question is about the "10 degrees before TDC". That is to be measured at the crankshaft/crankshaft pulley, correct? It appears that the crankshaft pulley is 1/2 the size of the camshaft pulley, so, that would mean 10 degrees on the crankshaft would equal a 5 degree turn on the camshaft, I believe.
I am mostly following the Clarks garage procedure, which says 10 degrees is 1.5 teeth on the camshaft pulley. That would seem like 20 degrees on the crankshaft. I have tried it countless times both ways, and cannot get 2.7 for a reading. Right now, at 1.5 teeth (from Clarks garage) I am reading about 1-1.3 on the tool. At about .75 teeth I am reading 3.5. My camshaft has 40 teeth, so 10 degrees on it, by my calculation, is about 1.2 teeth.
Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Any hints would be very helpful!
Thanks in advance, and quick replies are appreciated as I would like to go out for a drive on this great day! Maybe a wash and wax too, if I can finish this up
Conor
My main question is about the "10 degrees before TDC". That is to be measured at the crankshaft/crankshaft pulley, correct? It appears that the crankshaft pulley is 1/2 the size of the camshaft pulley, so, that would mean 10 degrees on the crankshaft would equal a 5 degree turn on the camshaft, I believe.
I am mostly following the Clarks garage procedure, which says 10 degrees is 1.5 teeth on the camshaft pulley. That would seem like 20 degrees on the crankshaft. I have tried it countless times both ways, and cannot get 2.7 for a reading. Right now, at 1.5 teeth (from Clarks garage) I am reading about 1-1.3 on the tool. At about .75 teeth I am reading 3.5. My camshaft has 40 teeth, so 10 degrees on it, by my calculation, is about 1.2 teeth.
Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Any hints would be very helpful!
Thanks in advance, and quick replies are appreciated as I would like to go out for a drive on this great day! Maybe a wash and wax too, if I can finish this up
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Conor
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at 10 BTDCConor,
I may be reading this wrong but I take it you are setting the tension at TDC and then checking it at 10 BTDC?
You should be setting it and checking it at 10BTDC. I hope this helps.
Let me know if I'm reading this wrong and I'll try and help.
I may be reading this wrong but I take it you are setting the tension at TDC and then checking it at 10 BTDC?
You should be setting it and checking it at 10BTDC. I hope this helps.
Let me know if I'm reading this wrong and I'll try and help.
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I am setting it to 10 BTDC to both check and set the tension. I check the tension, then remove the tool and adjust accordingly (less/more), then I rotate the crank shaft 2 times and check the tension again. I am getting a differnce in reading of about 1.5ish just moving it 1 or two teeth.
Conor
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When we did Pete's, we rotated the cam sprocket forward 1.5 teeth IIRC, then set the tension. It was difficult to get a consistant result on the "tool". Once we got 3.5 or something close to it three times we stopped.
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When you say foward, is the clockwise or counterclockwise. Clarks site says counter.
If it reads 2.5-3ish at 1.5 teeth counter clockwise, is it ok that it reads almost between 4 and 5 at TDC? or is that too tight?
If it reads 2.5-3ish at 1.5 teeth counter clockwise, is it ok that it reads almost between 4 and 5 at TDC? or is that too tight?
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Conor,
I usually set the tension with the tensioner in place. Try setting the tension with the tensioner in place (I would set it slightly higher), tighten the nut, verify correct tension setting, remove gauge, then rotate the crank two turns and recheck.
The eccentric on the tensioner is very sensitive and 99% of the time when you tighten the nut, it will throw off the tension setting so it is important to use the gauge when setting the tension and tightening down the eccentric nut. Some cars it is very easy on, others can be a nightmare.
I usually set the tension with the tensioner in place. Try setting the tension with the tensioner in place (I would set it slightly higher), tighten the nut, verify correct tension setting, remove gauge, then rotate the crank two turns and recheck.
The eccentric on the tensioner is very sensitive and 99% of the time when you tighten the nut, it will throw off the tension setting so it is important to use the gauge when setting the tension and tightening down the eccentric nut. Some cars it is very easy on, others can be a nightmare.
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Jeremy,
I will try that. I think I'm getting close, I had it at 3.5 and I let it out a very little, just need to rotate and check.
I started out adjusting with the tool in place, but it seemed to only change the bottom half of the belt, making it very tight, and not really change the top half, where i have the tool.
Thanks,
Conor
I will try that. I think I'm getting close, I had it at 3.5 and I let it out a very little, just need to rotate and check.
I started out adjusting with the tool in place, but it seemed to only change the bottom half of the belt, making it very tight, and not really change the top half, where i have the tool.
Thanks,
Conor
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Ok, I was finally able to find a setting I was comfortable with, and I'm gonna but it all back together now.
If anyone else has suggestions though, still post them, could help others in the future.
Thanks again,
Conor
If anyone else has suggestions though, still post them, could help others in the future.
Thanks again,
Conor
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Conor, and others....
HOLD ON !!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Ok.
Setting tension on these suckers is HARD to do. At least, if you're looking at the factory manuals.
First, take a look here. <a href="Http://members.rennlist.com/9201toolclub/help.htm" target="_blank">Http://members.rennlist.com/9201toolclub/help.htm</a> . There's a "Common problems and solutions type page" .
Second, the 1.5 teeth that the factory calls for is a bit suspect in my book. Count the number of teeth on the cam gear, and divide 360 by that. You're not gonna get 1.5... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> That means each tooth is that many degrees. 1.5 teeth in my book comes to like 13.5 degrees... You want to use that amount that you've just calculated for the teeth for 10 degrees before top dead center.
Also - get thyself a thing of red nail polish - the real fast drying kind. Ask your mom, GF, sister, whatever. Use that to make a swipe across the mark on the rear timing cover and the area on the cam gear you've calculated.
Set the tension on the used belt with the 9201 tool in place. It takes three hands, but it's possible. Then - set it right to 2.7ish, and then remove the tool, and then rotate the engine. Clockwise. Twice. Go PAST to finish your second revolution, then GO BACK, COUNTERCLOCKWISE, to your red mark - and line it all up. DO not, I repeat, NOT, go back and forth trying to line the marks up. You have to go two full revoutions, then come back to exactly your mark. When you do that - it's pretty darn close every time.
Check the 9201 tool with the tension bar (calibration bar - yes there is one...) before, and AFTER you're done. And if you drop the thing. It does NOT auto-calibrate, as some will lead you to think.
Connor - and anyone else in the area of MA/NH - if you need help and aren't sure, email me and we'll chat via phone. In fact, anyone's welcome to do that if you really want to hear my dry humor, and irritating personality. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Hope that helps a smidge!
HOLD ON !!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Ok.
Setting tension on these suckers is HARD to do. At least, if you're looking at the factory manuals.
First, take a look here. <a href="Http://members.rennlist.com/9201toolclub/help.htm" target="_blank">Http://members.rennlist.com/9201toolclub/help.htm</a> . There's a "Common problems and solutions type page" .
Second, the 1.5 teeth that the factory calls for is a bit suspect in my book. Count the number of teeth on the cam gear, and divide 360 by that. You're not gonna get 1.5... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> That means each tooth is that many degrees. 1.5 teeth in my book comes to like 13.5 degrees... You want to use that amount that you've just calculated for the teeth for 10 degrees before top dead center.
Also - get thyself a thing of red nail polish - the real fast drying kind. Ask your mom, GF, sister, whatever. Use that to make a swipe across the mark on the rear timing cover and the area on the cam gear you've calculated.
Set the tension on the used belt with the 9201 tool in place. It takes three hands, but it's possible. Then - set it right to 2.7ish, and then remove the tool, and then rotate the engine. Clockwise. Twice. Go PAST to finish your second revolution, then GO BACK, COUNTERCLOCKWISE, to your red mark - and line it all up. DO not, I repeat, NOT, go back and forth trying to line the marks up. You have to go two full revoutions, then come back to exactly your mark. When you do that - it's pretty darn close every time.
Check the 9201 tool with the tension bar (calibration bar - yes there is one...) before, and AFTER you're done. And if you drop the thing. It does NOT auto-calibrate, as some will lead you to think.
Connor - and anyone else in the area of MA/NH - if you need help and aren't sure, email me and we'll chat via phone. In fact, anyone's welcome to do that if you really want to hear my dry humor, and irritating personality. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Hope that helps a smidge!
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Thanks Jay! I've got it all put back together...and I just started it. Sounded a little rough at first, a little extra noise, then most of it quieted down.
However, there is now a really loud clicking/ticking that can be heard. Gets faster with engine speed. I had mild clicks before, but this is like the same but louder. I know its not the injectors!
Any ideas, is it ok to drive? I hand cranked the engine ALOT to get this right, maybe that has something to do with it? I only let it run for a few minutes, hopefully it will quite down.
Thanks,
Conor
However, there is now a really loud clicking/ticking that can be heard. Gets faster with engine speed. I had mild clicks before, but this is like the same but louder. I know its not the injectors!
Any ideas, is it ok to drive? I hand cranked the engine ALOT to get this right, maybe that has something to do with it? I only let it run for a few minutes, hopefully it will quite down.
Thanks,
Conor
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Conor,
Chances are, it's the lifters. Let it run for about a half an hour before being real concerned - and that at idle. If it doesn't quiet down, then we go farther.
Good luck!
Chances are, it's the lifters. Let it run for about a half an hour before being real concerned - and that at idle. If it doesn't quiet down, then we go farther.
Good luck!