Jeff928S4

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TaboII

Yes I tried to remove the wing and then move the glass back into place. The frame extends all the way around the glass and is not completed by the wing. Believe me when I say that this will not work. I was very frustrated to find the only way to move the glass was to get a special glass sealant-removing tool that will allow you to cut the sealant remaining on the frame. Remove the glass completely then clean the frame of any remaining sealant and apply new sealant. Then replace the glass. It will be a real PITA, suggest you get glass insurance and find a golf course. Any one for 18 holes??? PLZZZ <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />

Peckster

[quote]Originally posted by crushingday:
<strong>

Has anyone had luck removing the rear hatch from the car and pushing the frame back onto the glass glueing iton and then reinstalling the whole hatch again?</strong><hr></blockquote>


There have been several detailed threads in the past about how to do this, but it is not easy.

I thought mine was separating, it looked like it at the top from the outside. But a closer look from the inside revealed it was the band of paint on the inside that was flaking away from the glass.

To try to make the metal to glass sealant last longer, I masked off the top section where the glass meets the metal and applied a thin bead of silicone seal to fill the tiny space between the top corner of the metal and the glass. You can't see it unless you look really closely, and it can't help but make the bond a little stronger.

If you try this, smooth out the seal with your finger to force a little more between the glass and metal and remove the tape right away.

PeteL

The pins can be a bit tricky to turn. There is a 13 mm lock nut at the top. Loosen that, then I grab the pin with a vise grip and turn them. WD-40 may come in handy here to loosen things up.

Bob S. 1984 Silver

Conversation in 1973 in Zuffenhausen:

Zo,, You Are a dropout from der Autoschule? Gut. You vill be heading up der projext for der new front engined car. You vill haff tventy highschool dropouts to help mit the design. Vun thing...Machen sie certain there are many things that require special tools or are non fixable. Ve haff an idea tat der vaterpump should fail early und oftenn..Also, der engine must haff valves that interfere mit der pistons, und ein timing belt that streches, requires ein special ekxpensive tool und makes owners vorry. Also, ve haff miles of vire und switches from Yugos. Design them in. Und, do not forget, der vindow in der back must haff a flimsy frame. Ve like vater leaks, verstehen? Also oil leaks. Und, for der later models, machen sie ein kompressor mit two kilometers of fragile piping. Machen sie der Krankenshaft mit oelhole on der wrong side on piston two journal. Der studds must break easily, oder they must strip der holes. Das kar must also haff front suspension mit built in shaking und vibration at 75kph, und tis must be unfixable. Das klutch vill be rubber und be like ein grenade. Der dashenboard must be kompressed newspaper, und der fusebox must be inaccessable, at least in der first series. In der second series, der motor kontrol elektroniks must be under der dash on der passenger side so ven der battery box rusts, der elektroniks go fritz mit spitzensparken. Und, remember: parts placement ist important. Machen sie certain if you can see it, you cannot reach it, und visa versa.

Gehen sie now. Machen uns ein kar!!!!"

Robert D

As for the hatch opening, those pins just need to be adjusted...if they are 'locked' in place, loosten the nuts and attach vicegrips to the ends of the pins (not on the threads)...just be careful to not scratch the things up too badly...

The hatch separation from the frame is caused by most closing the hatch with one hand (if you look at the hatch it tweaks when you hold it from either the right or left side to close it). I recommend filling the space with silicon/sealant...also use the middle of the spoiler to close it or use both hands...
-Robert D.

Stefan

[quote]Originally posted by Bob S.:
<strong>Conversation in 1973 in Zuffenhausen:

Zo,, You Are a dropout from der Autoschule? ......... Gehen sie now. Machen uns ein kar!!!!"</strong><hr></blockquote>

<img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> GOOD ONE!


Now seriously, is there a detailed procedure on adjusting those hatch anchors? I've been at mine several times with different degrees of success and failure ... can't seem to find the optimum point between rattling hatch noise, a magic opening hatch, and a non-closing hatch.

ooooo ... those new gas shocks for the hatch really make it pop up fast <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

Bob S. 1984 Silver

Hi Stefan

I have resealed two of these cursed rear hatchs and found some things that help. First, the active latch parts can become quite dirty and not operate freely. By itself, this can result in one or both sides not latching. Clean them and apply just a dab of white grease to the assembly. Second, make certain you "soak " the adjusters well before trying to turn them very far. Given the actice member works correctly, adjust the units until both latch and a piece of paper stuck between the casket and the grame comesout with a bit of dofficulty. You do not want to compress the gasket totally flat; it will leak over time this way. The adjusters can be further adjusted if required (quarter turns..no more at one time). Finally, the gasket itself can be wiped down with silicone spray. This should be done every so often anyway since it seems to make the gasket last longer.

Hope this helps. Glad you liked the other post...Sometimes I think our series of cars is "Ferdie's Revenge". But for what, I don't know....

Peckster

[quote]Originally posted by Robert DesRosier:
<strong>As for the hatch opening, those pins just need to be adjusted...if they are 'locked' in place, loosten the nuts and attach vicegrips to the ends of the pins (not on the threads)...just be careful to not scratch the things up too badly...

The hatch separation from the frame is caused by most closing the hatch with one hand (if you look at the hatch it tweaks when you hold it from either the right or left side to close it). I recommend filling the space with silicon/sealant...also use the middle of the spoiler to close it or use both hands...
-Robert D.</strong><hr></blockquote>

A vice-grip guy, eh? I prefer channel locks for this job.

Hear about the guy who exploded his hatch cover glass while closing it with one hand? I have been very very careful since I heard that one.

Danno

I find how you close the hatch makes a big difference on wether it latches or not. I can't just slam mine down by pulling down on the spoiler. The flexible spoiler removes a lot of downward force, so I have to use a lot of velocity and that scares me. So I gently lower it down so the hatch is closed. Then I put both hands over the front edge of the spoiler where it meets the glass directly over the latches. Then I push down firmly with about 10-30lbs of force on each hand. I can feel the latches clicking on.

993Maineiac

Although everyone above is probably right about reseating the hatch and adjusting the mechinism, one more alternative. I had the hatch opening in flight routine for a while. Nothing else worked so for a last effort I replaced the switch and checked for shorts in the motor wiring. Only because you mentioned the rain and the freezing temps at night, water may have gotten into the wiring-if mechanical remedies don't work you might try electrical.

Peckster

Its better than having your hood release on the highway. I had an old pickup that opened up at 70 mph. It folded right back but didn't break the windshield. A real eyeopener.

cmoss

Amazin' how little we see--in certain situations--with our eyes wide open!
Chris

Brian Wilson

Well I made one last completely random adjustment on the way home last night after it popped open again. It didn't open the rest of the way home and it didn't open on the way to work this morning. I think that I still want to play with it for a while. When I had the latches a little tighter, it made the car a bit quieter and the nice rattle in the back went away, but it would also pop open on its own. There is a happy medium there somewhere - Doesn't open and is quiet and doesn't leak. I'll find it one day. Until then, I like washing out my trunk every time that I wash the car! <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />

*Michael.*

Just a little Ninja education....

Seppuku is the ancient art of killing yourself if you get super pissed and can’t find anybody else to kill. Ninjas use all sorts of crap to kill themselves—guns, ropes, knives, lasers, spears, etc.—and don’t even think twice about it. These guys would kill themselves for just about any reason and often for no reason at all: that’s why we there are so few ninjas today.

But if you want to commit Seppuku and you’re like me, you don’t have access to stuff like lasers. But there’s hope. I tried to kill myself by swallowing a frisbee a couple of times—and believe me, it’s pretty cool. The only catch is you have to be really super pissed to do it.


Step 1 Get a frisbee from the store or friend.

Step 2 Clean the Frisbee.

Step 3 Make sure your parents aren’t around

Step 4 Put something slippery on it, like butter or cream.

Step 5 Get really super pissed.

Step 6 Fold the Frisbee hard (this is crucial)

Step 7 Keep folded and insert Frisbee into mouth hard.

Step 8 Push hard until you can’t see it.

Step 9 Wait.

Step 10 Die.