Replacing the TPS on a 951......
10-14-2002, 02:20 PM
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Replacing the TPS on a 951......
I've got an inconsistant idle & sometimes buck on overrun, both characteristic of a bad TPS.
How do you replace the TPS??? The lower screw is inaccessible with the throttle body still on the plenum.
There appears to be an "O" ring between the throttle body & the plenum according to the PET (part # 999 701 331 40).If I take the throttle body off the plenum is the "O"-ring re-usable?
TIA
How do you replace the TPS??? The lower screw is inaccessible with the throttle body still on the plenum.
There appears to be an "O" ring between the throttle body & the plenum according to the PET (part # 999 701 331 40).If I take the throttle body off the plenum is the "O"-ring re-usable?
TIA
10-14-2002, 03:04 PM
#2
You can reuse the seal. Unbolt the tps from the manifold to get at the lower screw. Make sure you have an audible click at butterfly opening and closing on the new tps.
Did you check the error codes to make sure it is the tps? Does the idle fluctuate around 1300-1400?
Did you check the error codes to make sure it is the tps? Does the idle fluctuate around 1300-1400?
10-14-2002, 04:01 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by special tool:
<strong>Did you check the error codes to make sure it is the tps? Does the idle fluctuate around 1300-1400?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Didn't check the code, but yes it idles anywhere from 940-1400 rpm, more annoying is the bucking on overrun & I think it's rich (black exhaust.)
<strong>Did you check the error codes to make sure it is the tps? Does the idle fluctuate around 1300-1400?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Didn't check the code, but yes it idles anywhere from 940-1400 rpm, more annoying is the bucking on overrun & I think it's rich (black exhaust.)
10-14-2002, 06:15 PM
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Also could be a gunked up Idle Speed Valve. The ones on the 951's are inaccessible without removing the intake manifold. However, there are a couple of things that can be done to clean them. First, easiest, is to remove the electrical connection and clean the contacts. Next, to clean the valve, remove the hose going to it; connects to the AFM->throttle body hose. Now, spray a short burst of throttle body cleaner up the hose, making sure that the straw is as far as it will go. Next, catch any of the fluid that runs back down the hose using a white paper towel to see if there is any carbon coming out of the valve. Do this several times until the fluid is clear. Now, the key is to use a little bit of silicon lubricant after you're done to keep the valve operating smoothly. Let the hose vent for 10-15 minutes and reconnect. Remember to purchase a new hose clamp to replace the non-reusable one on the hose.
If you are sure that it is the FPR, try testing it by pulling the small vacuum hose off the end after the car is cold and see if there is any fuel coming out: there shouldn't be.
If you are sure that it is the FPR, try testing it by pulling the small vacuum hose off the end after the car is cold and see if there is any fuel coming out: there shouldn't be.
