Gasket Question

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Jul 30, 2010 | 05:01 PM

Dryslick13

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Racer

Joined: Apr 2010

Posts: 459

Likes: 11

From: Western Slope of CO

Gasket Question

I'm replacing my cam housing gaskets, both the main and rear one. Ordered some of the rubber coated steel ones from Lindsey Racing. Was wondering if you do anything differently with these gaskets or do you just put them on dry like the stock paper and cork ones? Also, I'm having great difficulty in removing the old paper gasket. It will not come off and the entire gasket is stuck to the top of the cylinder head. It is taking a ton of effort and takes forever to get anywhere. I've already put several small scratches in the gasket surface with my gasket scrapper trying to get this crap off. I will probably end up with a worse leak than what I'm trying to fix at this rate.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Jul 30, 2010 | 05:39 PM

ZW 944

Racer

Joined: Jul 2009

Posts: 359

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From: Gainesville, FL

Clarks says install the rear one by coating it in assembly lube first, thats what I did, and it seems to work.

Jul 30, 2010 | 08:15 PM

968 GUY

Racer

Joined: Sep 2009

Posts: 397

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From: Ga.

the auto parts store should have some gasket remover type spray, avoid gouging the gasket surface at all costs.

Jul 30, 2010 | 08:33 PM

John_AZ

Proprietoristicly Refined
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Joined: Oct 2001

Posts: 1,816

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From: ~Carefree Highway~

NO quick solutions. Slow.
I use a very careful pack of 100 single edge razor blades. Very careful angle to housing or head. I do not use a steel paint scraper or putty knife. There are "soft" brass scrapers the pros use. 3M does make a drill buff pad some use.

To finish, I use a Scotch Bright Soft Pad and a little Acetone.

The lifters should stay in the original bores. To remove or install, place a long, thin, flat bar of steel under the cam housing and lifters. Installation is reverse.

Do not rush installing the cam housing bolts. If one falls into the housing---you start over.

If you think you have "deep" scratches in the head or housing, a thin coat of Permatex Hylomar (same stuff used for WP gaskets) or non hardening avation gasket cement should work. Normally nothing is used.

If you think this was bad, when you need to replace the head gasket HG, expect to spend 6 hours to remove the gasket, carbon and clean the coolant galleys.

GL
John

Jul 30, 2010 | 08:54 PM

Dryslick13

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Apr 2010

Posts: 459

Likes: 11

From: Western Slope of CO

Thanks for the info. I'll have to go to town and get some of that gasket spray stuff. Will try the razor blades too. Do you use a handle for the blades, or just hold them in your hand?

Jul 30, 2010 | 09:32 PM

John_AZ

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Joined: Oct 2001

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From: ~Carefree Highway~

I found a handle will cut too deep and just use my fingers and a single edge razor blade. Try both ways.
John

Aug 1, 2010 | 11:15 PM

Dryslick13

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Apr 2010

Posts: 459

Likes: 11

From: Western Slope of CO

So far have spent about 7-8 hours trying to get the gasket off

Got about 90% of it off so far. Just a little more. Had to use a gasket scraper with a hammer like a chissle to break through the top surface of the gasket. Razor wouldn't even score the surface before it was broken. Hardest gasket I've ever delt with. The scotchbright and acetone worked well once I got it down to the metal. I tried to find some of that spray on gasket remover but wasn't succesful. Ended up using PB blaster and goo gone after each layer was scraped. What a PIA this is! Once I get this done, its the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. The master looks like its going to be real fun to get back on