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What else to replace with Timing Belt

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Old 02-13-2002, 09:24 PM
  #16  
Scott at Team Harco
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The rollers are the wheels, or gears that the belts ride on. Vertex has the whole kit for about $125. They are easy to replace. The procedure for replacing the timing belt is outlined in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual ($16 at the local imported car parts store - or your local library).

Belt tension is critical. I have a lot of experience with other similar engines so I am willing to trust my judgement. You may not feel so confident. If you can get a local expert to verify tension (preferably with the proper tool) you will be better off.

Someone mentioned engine mounts in this thread. I bought a steering rack that was still attached to the crossmember and also included the motor mounts. This was a very straight forward procedure to replace. When I get ready to replace the motor mounts I will likely drop the whole crossmember again.

Your results may vary.

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Old 02-13-2002, 09:59 PM
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Renntag
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I agree with Scott.
However, if you are looking to save money..you may opt to make a note where everything came from and take the idlers/ tensioners to someone that can tell you if they should be replaced. Then order parts. I deal with Vertex too. There are alot of very good suppliers.

If you dont mind taking it apart again....you dont have to repace everything. Belt tension IS important though. That I cant stress. Like scott, I have done so many belts...from grocery getters to italian exotics...you get a feel for it. You may want to rent the tools from vertex...or whoever.

good luck.
Old 02-14-2002, 10:50 AM
  #18  
Sajid
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I just found an old receipt from the PO, and this is what it said:

Timing Belt 23.14
Toothed Belt 67.39
V-Belt K6 X 1000 22.05
V-Belt 915 X 950 11.55
Pwr. Steering Str 32.25
Tension Roller 58.90
Balance Shaft GE 46.04
Belt Tension Rol 71.65

3.00 hours of Labor 204.00

Total: 536.00


All this was done back in 94 when the car had 77K on it. Currently the car has 126K on it. So its been about 50K since. I know i would be better off if i had them done ASAP, but i just want to know how crucial it is at this point.

Also, what do you think of the price? This was done at a Porsche/Mercedes dealer in NJ. Do you think it would cost me about the same 8 years later in Chicago? Also, am I better off having the motor mounts done right along with this or can i do them seperately?

Thanks in advance....
Old 02-14-2002, 07:47 PM
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Sajid
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anyone have any advice????????????? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
Old 02-14-2002, 08:27 PM
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Dan87951
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Car leaking oil? Change the engine seals why you are at it as well. My mechanic charged me an extra $95 for this.
Old 02-14-2002, 08:54 PM
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BallGoFar
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my87porsche:

I have an 87 'S' and I just had most of this done.
I had the belts, rollers, one seal and the motor mounts all done at the same time. I had it done at a dealership and paid $1100. The water pump was in good shape so I didn't have to get it done but my car's fairly low mileage (68K) If you don't have good records, I would recommend to go ahead and have the water pump done too. It's definately cheaper to have it all done at once and I went with the dealer because of the two year warranty. Hope this helps.
Old 02-14-2002, 09:04 PM
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Dave
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[quote]All this was done back in 94 when the car had 77K on it. Currently the car has 126K on it. So its been about 50K since. I know i would be better off if i had them done ASAP, but i just want to know how crucial it is at this point.

Also, what do you think of the price? This was done at a Porsche/Mercedes dealer in NJ. Do you think it would cost me about the same 8 years later in Chicago? Also, am I better off having the motor mounts done right along with this or can i do them seperately?

<hr></blockquote>
8 years and 50,000 miles!!! I hope they were done since then. Figure inflation has jacked up the NJ price a bit, But I have no clue how Chicago prices would compare.
Motor mounts can be done at the same time, or not, but if that really was the last time the belts were done DO THEM NOW!!!
Old 03-14-2002, 10:58 PM
  #23  
James Bond
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Two points about the engine mounts.

1. You will find two prices for turbo and non turbo mounts. The turbo ones are different! They're solid rather than hydraulic. Make the car rougher, but last forever.

2. An easy job to do. Suport one side of engine with jack. Undo bolts. Raise engine clear of studs. Remove mount. Put in new mount. Drop engine. Do up nuts. Repeat for other side. Took me a couple of hours max.

Only thing to remember is not to jack the engine up too high.

Other thing is that it's quite tricky on Right Hand Drive cars as the steering shaft threads its way through the exhaust manifold, mount, and heat shield - not much room left!



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