Cold Start + Belt Whine/Chatter: to idle or not?
#1
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i guess this can be seen as a qestion about something pointless along with something that might not be.
i basically wanted to know whether or not one should let the car warm up on a cold start, i know the manual says not to but just wondering what everyone thinks 15 years later
the reason i ask is because of strange sounds i hear. i hear a chatter sometimes, or a click-click-click upon cold-start that usually goes away after the car warms up and usually isnt audible at high rpms on cold start.
also, i have major belt whine when hitting 2nd gear, only 2nd gives me the whine. whats up with that?
thoughts, suggestions, thanks.
i basically wanted to know whether or not one should let the car warm up on a cold start, i know the manual says not to but just wondering what everyone thinks 15 years later
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the reason i ask is because of strange sounds i hear. i hear a chatter sometimes, or a click-click-click upon cold-start that usually goes away after the car warms up and usually isnt audible at high rpms on cold start.
also, i have major belt whine when hitting 2nd gear, only 2nd gives me the whine. whats up with that?
thoughts, suggestions, thanks.
#2
Nordschleife Master
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Now in the cold I let the car idle in the garage for anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute and 30 seconds.
Never rev it above 3000-3500rpm until the coolant temp gauge reaches the 1st (or 2nd) line, depends how you think of lines...im thinking of the 1st line after the big block. I usualy wait until the oil pressure gauge reads 2-3 bar at idle before I have lotsa fun.
click-click-click is probably the lifters...no big deal, a change of oil could reduce this. It could also be the injectors...but if it only does it when cold its more likely the injectors. I found that mine was the injectors by using a mechanics stethescope available from sears or <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com" target="_blank">http://www.harborfreight.com</a> .
I have major belt whine in all gears, belts were recently replaced and then retensioned 1500 miles later...I still have ~10k miles before they should be retensioned again. If it's only doing it in one gear...it may be something slipping? I'm not sure.
--Adrial
Never rev it above 3000-3500rpm until the coolant temp gauge reaches the 1st (or 2nd) line, depends how you think of lines...im thinking of the 1st line after the big block. I usualy wait until the oil pressure gauge reads 2-3 bar at idle before I have lotsa fun.
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click-click-click is probably the lifters...no big deal, a change of oil could reduce this. It could also be the injectors...but if it only does it when cold its more likely the injectors. I found that mine was the injectors by using a mechanics stethescope available from sears or <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com" target="_blank">http://www.harborfreight.com</a> .
I have major belt whine in all gears, belts were recently replaced and then retensioned 1500 miles later...I still have ~10k miles before they should be retensioned again. If it's only doing it in one gear...it may be something slipping? I'm not sure.
--Adrial
#3
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thanks for answering again adrial
wow belt whine in every gear? at the low rpm range when just selecting the gear right, and then it goes away? my 2nd gear whine is very noticeable.. i click in and whiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnneeeeeee right into 3k rpm and then its gone.. scary but im used to it. glad to hear im not the only one i guess
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wow belt whine in every gear? at the low rpm range when just selecting the gear right, and then it goes away? my 2nd gear whine is very noticeable.. i click in and whiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnneeeeeee right into 3k rpm and then its gone.. scary but im used to it. glad to hear im not the only one i guess
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#4
Nordschleife Master
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Well, belt whine is most noticable at idle obviously because the car is not moving (no wind noise with windows open).
But driving around in the lower gears I can still hear it, at the higher gears I'm goin too fast...too much wind noise (with the windows open).
What weight oil are you using?
But driving around in the lower gears I can still hear it, at the higher gears I'm goin too fast...too much wind noise (with the windows open).
What weight oil are you using?
#5
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i dont hear any real whine at idle.. just the clatter of the valves i guess.. its in 2nd that i hear the whine.. i mean its audible inside the car.
i run some regular ol penzoil 10w30
i run some regular ol penzoil 10w30
#6
Nordschleife Master
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Just so you know, when spring/summer rolls around you wanna change over to 20-50.
The manual has the ranges in there...right now I'm running amsoil 10-40..thankfully no leaks.
Come late may (i just changed the oil like 2 or 3 weeks ago) I'll be changing to 20-50...just in time for the june or july DE at watkins glen.
I'm not sure about the whine you're talkin about...someone smarter will answer fo shure, right guys?
<img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" /> <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
The manual has the ranges in there...right now I'm running amsoil 10-40..thankfully no leaks.
Come late may (i just changed the oil like 2 or 3 weeks ago) I'll be changing to 20-50...just in time for the june or july DE at watkins glen.
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I'm not sure about the whine you're talkin about...someone smarter will answer fo shure, right guys?
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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20w50, not 20w30.
They dont make 20-30.
Anyway, for the summer months you should switch to 20-50 cause the manual basically says so! It's thicker oil which is better when its warm out...
If you use 10-30 when its 120 degrees out (ok, exagerated) the oil will get super liquidy and you'll get very low oil pressure and the oil won't do its job...which is why you should go to 20-50 for the warmer months.
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They dont make 20-30.
Anyway, for the summer months you should switch to 20-50 cause the manual basically says so! It's thicker oil which is better when its warm out...
If you use 10-30 when its 120 degrees out (ok, exagerated) the oil will get super liquidy and you'll get very low oil pressure and the oil won't do its job...which is why you should go to 20-50 for the warmer months.
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#9
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oh its thin right, i get it.. i meant 20w50 .. oh well, ill keep that in mind. the only thing im wondering about oil now is if i should go with synthetic... im afraid ill get a million leaks if i do
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