Hatch reseal recommendations in socal?
#2
Do it yourself, goto a marina or marine supply store and use 3M-5200 RTV, rather than window weld... trust me on this...
you CAN do it yourself, it isn't that hard, but makes sure you clamp the frame to the glass, and allow plenty of time for the adhesive to cure BEFORE you put the hatch back on the car...
Yes I have done it, window weld let me down twice... 5200 is the bomb, and will work the first time.. plus it is UV stable, and anerobic to cure! OH and it is a permanant advesive, if you get it on anything, get it off while still wet, use a nail brush to remove it from skin... if you get it on fabric, throw the fabric away, as you will not be able to wash it out!
Take your time, use a long cerated blade to cut the old adhesive, and fit the frame to the window before pumping in teh adhesive, this will help you to not overdo it on the adhesive... I apinted the top 3 inches or so of my glass last time I did it, to try to prevent UV exposure of the adhesive, it LOOKS better, but the window weld still failed!
you CAN do it yourself, it isn't that hard, but makes sure you clamp the frame to the glass, and allow plenty of time for the adhesive to cure BEFORE you put the hatch back on the car...
Yes I have done it, window weld let me down twice... 5200 is the bomb, and will work the first time.. plus it is UV stable, and anerobic to cure! OH and it is a permanant advesive, if you get it on anything, get it off while still wet, use a nail brush to remove it from skin... if you get it on fabric, throw the fabric away, as you will not be able to wash it out!
Take your time, use a long cerated blade to cut the old adhesive, and fit the frame to the window before pumping in teh adhesive, this will help you to not overdo it on the adhesive... I apinted the top 3 inches or so of my glass last time I did it, to try to prevent UV exposure of the adhesive, it LOOKS better, but the window weld still failed!