FR Wilk Chip
#17
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Someone is selling one on Ebay right now with FR's chip and switch installed.
<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33596&item=2410886920&rd=1" target="_blank">Auction</a>
<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33596&item=2410886920&rd=1" target="_blank">Auction</a>
#18
Intermediate
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cypress, CA
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Micah Jones:
<strong>Bob,
Thanks for passing that on. Do you have the "wheel" throttle cam I mentioned earlier? IIRC, it's $30 or so... was a nice little add-on.
I'll have to look into that Camshaft from WC.
Good stuff <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Micah</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Micah,
I installed the Weltmeister unit (throttle cam) several days prior to installing the PP2. I wanted to have an objective perspective once I installed the chip, therefore I did not make both changes at the same time. Personally, I thought the the difference was minimal, although many rave of the smooth acceleration (some even claim that their HP is increased
, dont laugh, someone debated me on this...). Once I install a larger Throttle Body, I shall seek a dyno and post stats.
nixwiz,
I wouldn purchase a "used" chip. ESD can glitch the electronics. You have no way of knowing how the chip was installed. FR Wilk knows his s**t, his product was shipped properly in ESD protective cases. Why take a chance...not a slam to the seller, its just that if I am going to gamble I would prefer to do it in Vegas and not with the purchase of a used chip.
My 2 cents <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
Bob
<strong>Bob,
Thanks for passing that on. Do you have the "wheel" throttle cam I mentioned earlier? IIRC, it's $30 or so... was a nice little add-on.
I'll have to look into that Camshaft from WC.
Good stuff <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Micah</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Micah,
I installed the Weltmeister unit (throttle cam) several days prior to installing the PP2. I wanted to have an objective perspective once I installed the chip, therefore I did not make both changes at the same time. Personally, I thought the the difference was minimal, although many rave of the smooth acceleration (some even claim that their HP is increased
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
nixwiz,
I wouldn purchase a "used" chip. ESD can glitch the electronics. You have no way of knowing how the chip was installed. FR Wilk knows his s**t, his product was shipped properly in ESD protective cases. Why take a chance...not a slam to the seller, its just that if I am going to gamble I would prefer to do it in Vegas and not with the purchase of a used chip.
My 2 cents <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
Bob
#20
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Adding HP with the wheel cam, heh
I'll be interested to see the upcoming Dyno results, Bob. Your car has received a pretty realistic treatment (not supercharged or anything like that) and so it will be nice to see what your mods have done.
Ilovepcars,
I can't speak for the early cars - perhaps someone here with an early and Mr. Wilk's chip can elaborate on that. For me, the hardest part was getting the DME out, back in and mounted correctly. It certainly took a bit of time and wasn't necessarily hard, but pretty frustrating. Changing the chip, once you have the DME open, takes 30 seconds or so.
Micah
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Ilovepcars,
I can't speak for the early cars - perhaps someone here with an early and Mr. Wilk's chip can elaborate on that. For me, the hardest part was getting the DME out, back in and mounted correctly. It certainly took a bit of time and wasn't necessarily hard, but pretty frustrating. Changing the chip, once you have the DME open, takes 30 seconds or so.
Micah
#21
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The DMEs, on 83's at least, is right under the steering wheel, so it's simple to get to. I'm sure plugging in a new chip is too. I just don't know about the adapter board part.
Of course, I'd only be able to chip my car if it would stop breaking...
Of course, I'd only be able to chip my car if it would stop breaking...
#22
Intermediate
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cypress, CA
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Micah Jones:
<strong>Adding HP with the wheel cam, heh
I'll be interested to see the upcoming Dyno results, Bob. Your car has received a pretty realistic treatment (not supercharged or anything like that) and so it will be nice to see what your mods have done.
Micah</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Micah,
I'm anxious to complete this phase of the project and put 'er on a dyno. With the mods, I am hoping for 180-190 at the rear wheels. Anything below 180 and I will be dissapointed, anything above 190 and I will be ecstatic. The costs for the mods are not that outrageous:
Camshaft = $450
Head Porting and Polishing = $0
Chip = $200
Throttle body = $250 (estimated)
A 2.8 is still my main objective...
Bob
<strong>Adding HP with the wheel cam, heh
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Micah</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Micah,
I'm anxious to complete this phase of the project and put 'er on a dyno. With the mods, I am hoping for 180-190 at the rear wheels. Anything below 180 and I will be dissapointed, anything above 190 and I will be ecstatic. The costs for the mods are not that outrageous:
Camshaft = $450
Head Porting and Polishing = $0
Chip = $200
Throttle body = $250 (estimated)
A 2.8 is still my main objective...
Bob
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#23
Race Director
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by COLDBASS:
<strong>With the mods, I am hoping for 180-190 at the rear wheels. Anything below 180 and I will be dissapointed, anything above 190 and I will be ecstatic. The costs for the mods are not that outrageous:
Camshaft = $450
Head Porting and Polishing = $0
Chip = $200
Throttle body = $250 (estimated)
A 2.8 is still my main objective...
Bob
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Sorry to bust your bubble, but my guess is 155-160 at the rear wheels for a 2.5L 8v.
Even this is a little generous.![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Do let us know how it turns out as I rather be wrong then right on this!
<strong>With the mods, I am hoping for 180-190 at the rear wheels. Anything below 180 and I will be dissapointed, anything above 190 and I will be ecstatic. The costs for the mods are not that outrageous:
Camshaft = $450
Head Porting and Polishing = $0
Chip = $200
Throttle body = $250 (estimated)
A 2.8 is still my main objective...
Bob
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Even this is a little generous.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Do let us know how it turns out as I rather be wrong then right on this!
#24
Intermediate
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cypress, CA
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by M758:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by COLDBASS:
<strong>With the mods, I am hoping for 180-190 at the rear wheels. Anything below 180 and I will be dissapointed, anything above 190 and I will be ecstatic. The costs for the mods are not that outrageous:
Camshaft = $450
Head Porting and Polishing = $0
Chip = $200
Throttle body = $250 (estimated)
A 2.8 is still my main objective...
Bob
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Sorry to bust your bubble, but my guess is 155-160 at the rear wheels for a 2.5L 8v.
Even this is a little generous.
Do let us know how it turns out as I rather be wrong then right on this!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I thought the 150-160 was what the factory rated the vehicle in its stock configuration.
Doesnt really matter though since the dyno and print out will clarify the numbers with the current mods...
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by COLDBASS:
<strong>With the mods, I am hoping for 180-190 at the rear wheels. Anything below 180 and I will be dissapointed, anything above 190 and I will be ecstatic. The costs for the mods are not that outrageous:
Camshaft = $450
Head Porting and Polishing = $0
Chip = $200
Throttle body = $250 (estimated)
A 2.8 is still my main objective...
Bob
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Even this is a little generous.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Do let us know how it turns out as I rather be wrong then right on this!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I thought the 150-160 was what the factory rated the vehicle in its stock configuration.
Doesnt really matter though since the dyno and print out will clarify the numbers with the current mods...
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#25
Rennlist Member
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Coldbass -
What type of car do you have?
Check out this link
<a href="http://www.rennlist.org/944values/9682.htm" target="_blank">http://www.rennlist.org/944values/9682.htm</a>
Keep in mind that these figures are at the flywheel (I think - or is it brake horsepower?). More knowledgeable people here could chime in, but I think you lose 15-20% in the drivetrain, so stock RWHP may only be 130-135.
What type of car do you have?
Check out this link
<a href="http://www.rennlist.org/944values/9682.htm" target="_blank">http://www.rennlist.org/944values/9682.htm</a>
Keep in mind that these figures are at the flywheel (I think - or is it brake horsepower?). More knowledgeable people here could chime in, but I think you lose 15-20% in the drivetrain, so stock RWHP may only be 130-135.
#26
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The 150bhp (163 euro) rating is brake horsepower, not what's put to the rear wheels. I don't know how effecient these cars are, but 15% drivetrain loss is a good estimate. Stock RWHP is in the low 130's or upper 120's.
Shooting for the high 100's is unrealistic, but you were under the wrong impressions. Maybe that's what you'll make at the flywheel, but the RWHP rating will be much lower. Even if you only get 150 RWHP, that's still quite an improvement over stock.
Shooting for the high 100's is unrealistic, but you were under the wrong impressions. Maybe that's what you'll make at the flywheel, but the RWHP rating will be much lower. Even if you only get 150 RWHP, that's still quite an improvement over stock.
#27
Race Director
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"I thought the 150-160 was what the factory rated the vehicle in its stock configuration."
Uhh, most 944NA cars dyno at 121-125rwhp. Even the later 2.7L ones will get 132-135rhp.
Uhh, most 944NA cars dyno at 121-125rwhp. Even the later 2.7L ones will get 132-135rhp.
#28
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 537
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
On a side note...the early car chip install procedure is NOT easy. This is not an eprom install that just pops in. You have to unseat the old chips and install an adapter board where some of the old chips go.I had access to a solder sucker and some professional electronics equipment when I did my install. However, if you are patient it can be done.
#29
Intermediate
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cypress, CA
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by iloveporsches:
<strong>The 150bhp (163 euro) rating is brake horsepower, not what's put to the rear wheels. I don't know how effecient these cars are, but 15% drivetrain loss is a good estimate. Stock RWHP is in the low 130's or upper 120's.
Shooting for the high 100's is unrealistic, but you were under the wrong impressions. Maybe that's what you'll make at the flywheel, but the RWHP rating will be much lower. Even if you only get 150 RWHP, that's still quite an improvement over stock.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Thanks for the clarification. I am even more curious now. I dont want to speculate much more, since a print out will tell the real story. I shall reset (lower) my expectations...so what you are saying is that 150 at the rear wheels is still respectable for an N/A? while we're on the subject, what are the HP ratings for a US spec '86 951?
Jack - Its an '86 N/A, Black and Fuched...
Thanks all
Bob
<strong>The 150bhp (163 euro) rating is brake horsepower, not what's put to the rear wheels. I don't know how effecient these cars are, but 15% drivetrain loss is a good estimate. Stock RWHP is in the low 130's or upper 120's.
Shooting for the high 100's is unrealistic, but you were under the wrong impressions. Maybe that's what you'll make at the flywheel, but the RWHP rating will be much lower. Even if you only get 150 RWHP, that's still quite an improvement over stock.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Thanks for the clarification. I am even more curious now. I dont want to speculate much more, since a print out will tell the real story. I shall reset (lower) my expectations...so what you are saying is that 150 at the rear wheels is still respectable for an N/A? while we're on the subject, what are the HP ratings for a US spec '86 951?
Jack - Its an '86 N/A, Black and Fuched...
Thanks all
Bob
#30
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
US spec 944 makes ~220 at the flywheel, so about 190 at the rear wheels.
An improvement of 30 RWHP would definitely be noticable in an NA. Still not as fast as a turbo though. It takes an SC just to match stock turbos.
An improvement of 30 RWHP would definitely be noticable in an NA. Still not as fast as a turbo though. It takes an SC just to match stock turbos.