Spring rates for coilovers -- street use.
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Suburban DC
Posts: 2,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What would be a good "rough" spring rate setup for coilovers (all four corners) for street use? Maybe somewhat firmer than stock, but truly livable for daily use. Could you go as soft as:
F: 200#--------------200#
|
|
|
|
R: 250#--------------250#
F: 200#--------------200#
|
|
|
|
R: 250#--------------250#
#3
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes, but that setup MIGHT present issues to get the torsion bars indexed correctly.... but it could be done.. and would be slightly stiffer than stock on a N/A, but not too harsh for street use...
My 951 currently wears 300s in the front and I will soon be installing 550s in the rear to rid myself of the TBs all together... I use it 100% street to date, and have no regrets..
I have always felt it is easier to delete the torsion bars and go full coil over, but that IS just my oppinion. I just don't understand WHY you would keep the torsion bars while installing coil overs when it is teh same price to get rid of the torsion bar setup all together.
My 951 currently wears 300s in the front and I will soon be installing 550s in the rear to rid myself of the TBs all together... I use it 100% street to date, and have no regrets..
I have always felt it is easier to delete the torsion bars and go full coil over, but that IS just my oppinion. I just don't understand WHY you would keep the torsion bars while installing coil overs when it is teh same price to get rid of the torsion bar setup all together.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Suburban DC
Posts: 2,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes, but that setup MIGHT present issues to get the torsion bars indexed correctly.... but it could be done.. and would be slightly stiffer than stock on a N/A, but not too harsh for street use...
My 951 currently wears 300s in the front and I will soon be installing 550s in the rear to rid myself of the TBs all together... I use it 100% street to date, and have no regrets..
I have always felt it is easier to delete the torsion bars and go full coil over, but that IS just my oppinion. I just don't understand WHY you would keep the torsion bars while installing coil overs when it is teh same price to get rid of the torsion bar setup all together.
My 951 currently wears 300s in the front and I will soon be installing 550s in the rear to rid myself of the TBs all together... I use it 100% street to date, and have no regrets..
I have always felt it is easier to delete the torsion bars and go full coil over, but that IS just my oppinion. I just don't understand WHY you would keep the torsion bars while installing coil overs when it is teh same price to get rid of the torsion bar setup all together.
I guess the question becomes whether 250# in the rear with no t-bars is enough rate, or enough increase over 200# up front. I don't know whether teh front-to-rear split should be based on weight or proportion. For example, a 50# split seems like very little, but it's a 25% differential. Using the same proportion, if I had 400# up front, the rears would be 500# in the rear, proportionally.
One confession: I'm influenced by the fact that I already have 250# springs left over from when I had coilovers and t-bars together; so I'm wondering if I can use them in the back and match them with springs up front. (Can't use the 250s up front b/c they're different diameter).
#5
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ive-rates.html
looks to me like 250 would get you close to having a nice corner ballance as long as you have 23.5mm effective torsion bars...
Now that I go through it again, maybe I'll stick to 400 lb rears...
looks to me like 250 would get you close to having a nice corner ballance as long as you have 23.5mm effective torsion bars...
Now that I go through it again, maybe I'll stick to 400 lb rears...
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Suburban DC
Posts: 2,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Even though I have looked at that table a dozen times, I just noticed that the left side translates coilover spring rates to effective rates, but refers to the coilover rate as being in millimeters, not spring rate. Coilover springs are sold by ft/lb rate, not mm. So is that a typo in the chart?
Trending Topics
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Suburban DC
Posts: 2,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#11
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When you factor in the motion ratio of rear coilovers, a 250 lb/in spring rate equates to only 103 lb/in at the wheel (if t-bars are deleted). That is softer than the stock t-bars, and with 200 lb/in springs in front (about 166 lb/in at the front wheel assuming .91 motion ratio). So, with 166 at the front and 103 rear, I think the car will probably understeer quite a bit.