forget the idle adjustment screw on top of the throttle body(i can figure this one out fine) also i get the tps adjustment fine, but the 3rd part you can adjust is the right side of the throttle body that has a real small screw with yellow paint on it, what does it do, does it change base idle fuel qualities? like if its been tampered with and out of adjustment can it cause a too lean situation where then i have to put my arc2 low setting at like 11:30 or higher to stop from going full red or lean on the arm1? i think this screw is out of adjustment so how do i out it back the way it is supposed to go also can i set it so i get a richer situation at idle? i know that my idle set screw is in the top hole of the throttle body and it has its o ring the way it should and it it about 1/2 turn out from fully closed(its almost all the way down in the hole) also my tps sensor is new and clicks if i pull the throttle cable and clicks when i release it so there is this one final screw that baffels me, any ideas to its functions and positions?

 

It's the throttle-plate stop. It determines how closed the throttle-plate is when it stops moving. Take off the intake pipes and look at the throttle-plate. It should be fully closed, but not so closed that it binds against the side. Then adjust your TPS so that it clicks when you just barely open the throttle. Then re-adjust your idle with the idle-stabilizer disabled.

I doubt any of these things are causing you the lean problem though. What kind of chips are you running? The fuel-maps on this car seems quite odd. The map for the 944NA car shows a 85% injector duty-cycle from 1200-2000rpm at full-throttle, then it drops off to 20% and climbs fairly linearly with RPM.

Perhaps the chips you have don't have this fuel spike and thus you're running lean?

 

I had a quick look at the TPS the other day, with an idea to check the adjustment.

Problem is, the lower screw is completely hidden by the intercooler pipe.

I am assuming that you need this pipe on to get the correct adjustment, so how do you get to the screw???

(Dumbass question #274) <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

 

Use a short stubby screwdriver. Or take the small bit from a screwdriver with removeable tips and hold it some needle-nose pliers. Push the bit onto the screw with our thumb and turn with the needle-nose pliers.

 

im running k27 autothority stage 2 from powerhaus in the DME and a k29 autothority chip in the KLR box, i didnt want to pull out the klr box again to put in a k27 chip, because this change would do nothing the k27 and k29 klr chip are the same, but the dme chip matters, the dme chip was changed from a k29 back to a k27 chip because i got too much fuel down low or below 4000 rpms, lots of smoke, too rich, i didnt have a arm1 then so i dont know how rich but after putting in the k27 dme chip instead the smoking went away but im lean down low now, and lean up high if i stop on it but i fixed the high leaning with the acr2, now its back to the low end and how to get it richer at idle without moving the arc2 above 11:30 and keeping the idle below 1000 rpms, i know injectors will help both high and low but before i do those im wondering why im lean down low at idle? is my k29#8 turbo throwing alot of air at idle causing a need for more fuel at idle or is it my chips? chips came from powerhaus and i was told the k29 chip is too rich and only for 3 liter motors w big turbos or youll be too rich down low, full boost is fine with the k29 dme chip but down low was a pain in the butt, jerky, smokey and too rich