radio install wiring help
#16
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wired everything up today but the radio still isn't getting any power![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
there's definitely power at the wires and no fuses are blown, any suggestions?
checked and there is 12volts at both the pins for the switched (when ignition on) and the constant on the harness that plugs into the back of the pioneer radio but the radio wont turn on
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there's definitely power at the wires and no fuses are blown, any suggestions?
checked and there is 12volts at both the pins for the switched (when ignition on) and the constant on the harness that plugs into the back of the pioneer radio but the radio wont turn on
Last edited by Dan151; 06-02-2010 at 08:53 PM.
#17
Burning Brakes
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Do yourself a big favour Dan and take the job to someone that at least has a basic understanding of electics or how to use a multimeter to fault find.
Fiddling about with loose live cables in the confined space of your console/dash area is asking for trouble. One slip with a live wire and you will burn out your supply cable plus the rest of the loom and probably set fire to the car.
The stupid little twist wire caps you are using are completely inapproriate and dangerous. They give a poor connection prone to oxidation and are likely to drop off leaving bare wires behind your head unit. At least use some insulated electrical connecting strips with screws
http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/newlec...B944BEF18DCD42
Last edited by peanut; 06-03-2010 at 08:07 AM.
#18
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Pull the head unit...
Have you checked the back of the head unit for a tiny fuse?
I'd do this: run the head unit directly from the battery as a test. 12v right to the positive and ground right to the negative. If it doesn't turn on then, you have a dead head unit.
Have you checked the back of the head unit for a tiny fuse?
I'd do this: run the head unit directly from the battery as a test. 12v right to the positive and ground right to the negative. If it doesn't turn on then, you have a dead head unit.
#19
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take it to an Auto Electrician and get them to wire it up for 30-40 bucks or whatever and get a proper job done ![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Do yourself a big favour Dan and take the job to someone that at least has a basic understanding of electics or how to use a multimeter to fault find.
Fiddling about with loose live cables in the confined space of your console/dash area is asking for trouble. One slip with a live wire and you will burn out your supply cable plus the rest of the loom and probably set fire to the car.
The stupid little twist wire caps you are using are completely inapproriate and dangerous. They give a poor connection prone to oxidation and are likely to drop off leaving bare wires behind your head unit. At least use some insulated electrical connecting strips with screws
http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/newlec...B944BEF18DCD42
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Do yourself a big favour Dan and take the job to someone that at least has a basic understanding of electics or how to use a multimeter to fault find.
Fiddling about with loose live cables in the confined space of your console/dash area is asking for trouble. One slip with a live wire and you will burn out your supply cable plus the rest of the loom and probably set fire to the car.
The stupid little twist wire caps you are using are completely inapproriate and dangerous. They give a poor connection prone to oxidation and are likely to drop off leaving bare wires behind your head unit. At least use some insulated electrical connecting strips with screws
http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/newlec...B944BEF18DCD42
yes there is a small fuse on the back of the HU and it doesnt appear to be blown or corroded. Ill let you know how the test goes
#22
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Check that fuse again on the head unit, use the multimeter and not your eyes... ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Also, if the head unit has a need for 12v constant and 12v switched, hook them both up to the battery + to test.
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Also, if the head unit has a need for 12v constant and 12v switched, hook them both up to the battery + to test.
#23
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#28
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Your picture is to blurry to see the model. Here is an example of a Pioneer radio hook up, although not your model you should get the jest of it.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...130KEHP402.PDF
But for the most part the following still holds true today for Pioneer wire connections:
Red============Switched (12v w/ignition or acc only) 12v
Yellow==========Constant 12v ( has 12v even with the key off)
Black===========Ground (-12v chassis) YEAH I THINK YOU MIGHT WANT THIS ONE HOOKED UP!!!!
Blue or Blue/White===Power Antenna 12v feed (for use to trigger the power antenna or amplifier)
White/WhiteBlack===Left Front Speaker (black stripe is ground)
Grey/GreyBlack=====Right Front (black stripe is ground)
Green/GreenBlack===Left Rear (black stripe is ground)
Purple/PurpleBlack===Right Rear (black stripe is ground)
Your car has a 4 speaker fader control, that is the wheel in your picture. Your Pioneer deck has 4 speaker amplification so you should rewire your car not to use the factory fader wheel.
If you are not comfortable with doing this kind of work I HIGHLY recommend that you take it somewhere to someone who can. Is a $50 radio worth $1000's in possible repairs if you burn up something important?
And by the way, there is no 8-10 second delay before sound comes out. I don't know what that was supposed to mean.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...130KEHP402.PDF
But for the most part the following still holds true today for Pioneer wire connections:
Red============Switched (12v w/ignition or acc only) 12v
Yellow==========Constant 12v ( has 12v even with the key off)
Black===========Ground (-12v chassis) YEAH I THINK YOU MIGHT WANT THIS ONE HOOKED UP!!!!
Blue or Blue/White===Power Antenna 12v feed (for use to trigger the power antenna or amplifier)
White/WhiteBlack===Left Front Speaker (black stripe is ground)
Grey/GreyBlack=====Right Front (black stripe is ground)
Green/GreenBlack===Left Rear (black stripe is ground)
Purple/PurpleBlack===Right Rear (black stripe is ground)
Your car has a 4 speaker fader control, that is the wheel in your picture. Your Pioneer deck has 4 speaker amplification so you should rewire your car not to use the factory fader wheel.
If you are not comfortable with doing this kind of work I HIGHLY recommend that you take it somewhere to someone who can. Is a $50 radio worth $1000's in possible repairs if you burn up something important?
And by the way, there is no 8-10 second delay before sound comes out. I don't know what that was supposed to mean.
#29
Burning Brakes
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well my car Hi-Fi and those in our other two cars have a short delay after switching on before you get sound .I suspect it is a built in timer chip which is intended to prevent a massive power surge bursting your speaker cones. If your CD /radio has instantanteous sound it must be the exception to the rule.
I have already advised the op take it to a technician if you read the whole of my post.
I have already advised the op take it to a technician if you read the whole of my post.