Front brakes on 86 turbo
#1
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Front brakes on 86 turbo
Hello, I have an 86 turbo I'm working on. The car locks up it's rear brakes way earlier than the fronts, even when backing up. Brake pads are nearly at full thickness in the front. I'm also being told that it throws sparks from the front brakes under hard braking.
Anyway, I'd like to upgrade my front brakes, as I've already started modifying the engine, and will go onto the suspension and hopefully start tracking the car in a few months. Problem is I'm a student and don't have too much money to throw at the car. What would you guys suggest as a relatively cheap upgrade for my front brakes?
Ahmet
Anyway, I'd like to upgrade my front brakes, as I've already started modifying the engine, and will go onto the suspension and hopefully start tracking the car in a few months. Problem is I'm a student and don't have too much money to throw at the car. What would you guys suggest as a relatively cheap upgrade for my front brakes?
Ahmet
#3
If they're sparking and grinding and the pads are good, that kind of leaves you with rotor problems, unless some chevy mechanic put the wrong year's pads or rotors on somehow (I don't think this is possible, but mechanics have found some pretty amazing things to do to these cars).
As far as cheap upgrades, you can do really well with a new set of stock rotors and some good performance pads from Mintex or Pagid. I use Jurid pads which have very good stopping power but sqeal like you wouldn't believe. The rotors on these cars are pretty soft, and you should probably replace them (not expensive) rather than have them turned.
If you have a little extra dough, you could get cross drilled rotors, but then some people might wonder about your commitment if you didn't do the same to the rear.
Regardless, I would highly recommend bleeding out the brake system and putting in some fresh ATE Blue racing brake fluid while you are doing the job. Make sure you bleed out the front and rears, and do the clutch too. Bleeding out the clutch is important because the brakes and the clutch master cylinders share the fluid resevoir and you don't want to mix old and new fluids of different chemical makeups. P.S. bleeding these cars is a PITA, and you might consider borrrowing or buying a pressure bleeder. Anyhow, have fun and think about how much you are going to enjoy your new stopping power when the job is done!
As far as cheap upgrades, you can do really well with a new set of stock rotors and some good performance pads from Mintex or Pagid. I use Jurid pads which have very good stopping power but sqeal like you wouldn't believe. The rotors on these cars are pretty soft, and you should probably replace them (not expensive) rather than have them turned.
If you have a little extra dough, you could get cross drilled rotors, but then some people might wonder about your commitment if you didn't do the same to the rear.
Regardless, I would highly recommend bleeding out the brake system and putting in some fresh ATE Blue racing brake fluid while you are doing the job. Make sure you bleed out the front and rears, and do the clutch too. Bleeding out the clutch is important because the brakes and the clutch master cylinders share the fluid resevoir and you don't want to mix old and new fluids of different chemical makeups. P.S. bleeding these cars is a PITA, and you might consider borrrowing or buying a pressure bleeder. Anyhow, have fun and think about how much you are going to enjoy your new stopping power when the job is done!
#4
Race Director
Yeah, I definitely think the problem is in the front brakes somewhere. Sparks are sure sign something's wrong.
Also cross-drilled rotors DO NOT increase braking power. They prevent fade in repeated stops by giving the hot gases that boil off the brake pads a place to go so they don't float the pads off the rotors. If you're not doing 100% braking efforts stops one right after another like on the racetrack, you're wasting your money on drilled rotors.
Also cross-drilled rotors DO NOT increase braking power. They prevent fade in repeated stops by giving the hot gases that boil off the brake pads a place to go so they don't float the pads off the rotors. If you're not doing 100% braking efforts stops one right after another like on the racetrack, you're wasting your money on drilled rotors.
#5
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I use ATE superblue on all my cars, and this thing has been bled a few times already...
My rear rotors were warped really bad, I replaced them (rotors only, already had new pagid pads in the rear) and the difference was amazing, but not only that it locks up the rears now as I've said... I swear by Pagid (orange) pads, I've used them for track/street use on my 944 NA and they last long, are really responsive after the first application on the street, dust a bit but that's OK.
Anyway, I'll tear down the front brakes but instead of buying pads/rotors for the front I was thinking something more in the lines of used S4 calipers or something (I'd like something I can push on track, but the car will not have more than ~320hp) They need to clear the 16 inch phone dials, because I'm trying to keep them (The goal is to have a trackworthy car for less than $5k, I've got $3550 including purchase so far).
Maybe I'll just put pagid pads on the front with new rotors, considering my budget goal.
OK, I can get most parts at cost but I'd like some slotted rotors. ATE makes good ones for the NA but I haven't seen anything for the turbo that's not ridiculously expensive... I'd appreciate any suggestions on this.
PS: I do all my work, have been a mechanic for some time, but not since I started college.
Thanks for the replies guys.
Ahmet
My rear rotors were warped really bad, I replaced them (rotors only, already had new pagid pads in the rear) and the difference was amazing, but not only that it locks up the rears now as I've said... I swear by Pagid (orange) pads, I've used them for track/street use on my 944 NA and they last long, are really responsive after the first application on the street, dust a bit but that's OK.
Anyway, I'll tear down the front brakes but instead of buying pads/rotors for the front I was thinking something more in the lines of used S4 calipers or something (I'd like something I can push on track, but the car will not have more than ~320hp) They need to clear the 16 inch phone dials, because I'm trying to keep them (The goal is to have a trackworthy car for less than $5k, I've got $3550 including purchase so far).
Maybe I'll just put pagid pads on the front with new rotors, considering my budget goal.
OK, I can get most parts at cost but I'd like some slotted rotors. ATE makes good ones for the NA but I haven't seen anything for the turbo that's not ridiculously expensive... I'd appreciate any suggestions on this.
PS: I do all my work, have been a mechanic for some time, but not since I started college.
Thanks for the replies guys.
Ahmet