Another cooling system question
#1
Another cooling system question
Just replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, lower temp radiator fan thermo switch, and hoses. I have only water in at the moment, no antifreeze/coolant. Bled the system several times, only getting water no air. The water is clean (no oil) and no loss of water, pressure tested fine.
The water temp gauge always stays between the second and third mark. The fans come on when the temp gets just over the second mark, and they stay on almost the whole time I'm driving.
Hoses 8, 9A, 11 are hot. Hoses 10, 32, and expansion tank are not hot.
Compared to my race car this seems like it's running too hot, and that the fans should not be running so much. I can't figure this out. Thoughts?
The water temp gauge always stays between the second and third mark. The fans come on when the temp gets just over the second mark, and they stay on almost the whole time I'm driving.
Hoses 8, 9A, 11 are hot. Hoses 10, 32, and expansion tank are not hot.
Compared to my race car this seems like it's running too hot, and that the fans should not be running so much. I can't figure this out. Thoughts?
#3
Yeah I ran just water (and water wetter) in my 951, which was driven crazy hard on the track, and never had cooling issues. I'm kinda stumped on this one.
#5
My 951 had double 6 blade fans, this one has double 3 blade fans. Is between second and third mark on the gauge normal operating temp???
#6
My car operated at middle mark. But you probably remember that we were never able to bleed the system completely. I know why now - fans, bad coolant cap, hairline cracks in the coolant tank, and bad hoses in coolant and vacuum hoses. But getting the fans to work was a definite step in the right direction, as well as a new coolant cap. My car did run cooler during winter though.
I would think that its fine, so long as it stays below the middle mark. Doing the search, I kept reading at how cool some of the cars run, but that may vary by location + type of parts used in the cooling system, probably.
I would think that its fine, so long as it stays below the middle mark. Doing the search, I kept reading at how cool some of the cars run, but that may vary by location + type of parts used in the cooling system, probably.
Trending Topics
#9
Both of mine run right at the lower mark and only occassionally stray a hair above it. But I run the lower temp thermostat for both the main tstat and the turbo tstat. Could it be maybe you have a bad oil cooler tstat (which I don't know squat about but supposedly can be removed and tested on the wife's stovetop)...Hey, you asked for ideas...Bruce
#10
I would guess air trapped in the system. I always vacuum fill my cars and have had no cooling issues with any of them.
And FYI, straight water has the best heat transfer coefficient, coolant has less ability to transfer heat, so a straight water with water wetter would be the most efficient setup, but could freeze.
Mark
And FYI, straight water has the best heat transfer coefficient, coolant has less ability to transfer heat, so a straight water with water wetter would be the most efficient setup, but could freeze.
Mark
#11
I can't make sense of that diagram... it looks like it's missing about 15 hoses.
Was it running at the same temp before you changed all of those things? Do you have an infrared thermometer gun? how even is the head temp? Could there be some blockage somewhere?
Was it running at the same temp before you changed all of those things? Do you have an infrared thermometer gun? how even is the head temp? Could there be some blockage somewhere?
#12
I would guess air trapped in the system. I always vacuum fill my cars and have had no cooling issues with any of them.
And FYI, straight water has the best heat transfer coefficient, coolant has less ability to transfer heat, so a straight water with water wetter would be the most efficient setup, but could freeze.
Mark
And FYI, straight water has the best heat transfer coefficient, coolant has less ability to transfer heat, so a straight water with water wetter would be the most efficient setup, but could freeze.
Mark
As far as water heat transfer, that is what I have always understood as well.
I only drove the car a couple times before doing all this work, and didn't notice the temp being so high, so I am assuming it has something to do with what I did. Trapped air is really the only thing that makes any sense at this point.
I need to change a hose and put in a nice new white expansion tank so I'm going to drain the water again and start from scratch.
Thanks for the responses guys.
#14
Anyone have a diagram that shows the route coolant takes through the radiator and various hoses? Trying to figure out why 10 & 32 aren't getting hot like the other hoses.
#15
32 connects to the heater core return, no? That should only get hot when the heat is on (which you probably haven't had on...)
10 will only get hot after a long time - since there is no pumped "loop" through the reservoir. It will also get hot if, due to thermal expansion/contraction/air bubbles, etc., the system pulls water out of the tank, then spits it back out.
10 will only get hot after a long time - since there is no pumped "loop" through the reservoir. It will also get hot if, due to thermal expansion/contraction/air bubbles, etc., the system pulls water out of the tank, then spits it back out.