Another cooling system question
#17
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My 1983 N/A ... runs all the time dead centered 89c- temp gage..... The 3 blade electric fans work fine (I lubed em too and they are quiter). Low speed 1 fan on cool down -hot parking a-ok too. AC on turns them on constant too. I've not had any issues really, I just didn't really understand their cycle and experimented.
I did 2 fan switch "tests", past 9 months...As I recieved my 944 from Rochester NY area last June 2009...... I thought it was weird that it took it to the yellow line- the 105c ....before the dual fans turned on... then they turned off at the center 89c mark. All that both cycling while at a long 3-4 wait of a city busy traffic stop light.
So then @ Sept 2009 I replaced the stock 92c fan switch to a lower temp 82 degree turn on - Beck Arnley switch from Advance Auto P/N 201-1545 .. Then the temp gauge would get up to the 3/4 mark and turn on... but never to turn off...until parked for a while. Even in leisure NYSThruway cruise and cool CNY ambient temperatures....they stayed on. Meanwhile the gage stayed at center 89c mark. I also have done additional grounds, terminal cleaning and a new temp gauge sensor in the head for preventative maint to make sure it all is accurate.
Overall I (ok fellow listers here) concluded I had to high a set point thermostat for the low temp fan switch. But do I want the engine cooler (gage reading) just so the rad tank (switch location) never gets over the 85c temp?
I replaced my RAD recently (cause I broke plastic tank)... I found that new OEM one "exchanged heat much faster"... I mean when the fans turned on now or I leave the long stop light I can litterly watch the gage back down to center in a couple hundred yards. At that time I also went back to the 92c Whaler (I think it was the Part #: 823-959-481-F-92-M2 switch.
I am stock configuration again, still running 89c centered until a long light...then if real long it climbs to almost 105c again and fans kick on and drop it almost imediately...if light is long fans shut off, cycle starts again....never seeing less than 2.5 bar at 105c point idle with the 5w40 winter syn in it.
I am happy with commuter (not racing) car in this range, returning 24mpg on my 10 mile each way to work. My trips to Rochester and around CNY find no issues either. The head temperature hitting almost 105c or 221f with antifreeze and new exp tank (old 1983 one crazed & cracking) a new pressure cap....looking rather normal to me...
I did 2 fan switch "tests", past 9 months...As I recieved my 944 from Rochester NY area last June 2009...... I thought it was weird that it took it to the yellow line- the 105c ....before the dual fans turned on... then they turned off at the center 89c mark. All that both cycling while at a long 3-4 wait of a city busy traffic stop light.
So then @ Sept 2009 I replaced the stock 92c fan switch to a lower temp 82 degree turn on - Beck Arnley switch from Advance Auto P/N 201-1545 .. Then the temp gauge would get up to the 3/4 mark and turn on... but never to turn off...until parked for a while. Even in leisure NYSThruway cruise and cool CNY ambient temperatures....they stayed on. Meanwhile the gage stayed at center 89c mark. I also have done additional grounds, terminal cleaning and a new temp gauge sensor in the head for preventative maint to make sure it all is accurate.
Overall I (ok fellow listers here) concluded I had to high a set point thermostat for the low temp fan switch. But do I want the engine cooler (gage reading) just so the rad tank (switch location) never gets over the 85c temp?
I replaced my RAD recently (cause I broke plastic tank)... I found that new OEM one "exchanged heat much faster"... I mean when the fans turned on now or I leave the long stop light I can litterly watch the gage back down to center in a couple hundred yards. At that time I also went back to the 92c Whaler (I think it was the Part #: 823-959-481-F-92-M2 switch.
I am stock configuration again, still running 89c centered until a long light...then if real long it climbs to almost 105c again and fans kick on and drop it almost imediately...if light is long fans shut off, cycle starts again....never seeing less than 2.5 bar at 105c point idle with the 5w40 winter syn in it.
I am happy with commuter (not racing) car in this range, returning 24mpg on my 10 mile each way to work. My trips to Rochester and around CNY find no issues either. The head temperature hitting almost 105c or 221f with antifreeze and new exp tank (old 1983 one crazed & cracking) a new pressure cap....looking rather normal to me...
#20
Race Car
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What you describe is exactly how my 924S runs, and has for years. I could probably dig into the fan switch temps and find a better suited one for the stock temp thermostat. My fans stay on a bit longer than they need to. It also helps to take the radiator out and pressure wash the fins - you would be amazed at the crud that collects in them. And, open the heater valve (turn the heat on) when you bleed.
#21
Drifting
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NYFlapjack2
have you checked for cracked hoses? because your car does a lot of what my car was doing
me and Jim tried to bleed the system but would always still have some air coming out; I think Jim was the one that found my fans unplugged and we plugged them in, and that made a hell of a difference - but since yours are good and working, something else might be wrong?
have you checked for cracked hoses? because your car does a lot of what my car was doing
me and Jim tried to bleed the system but would always still have some air coming out; I think Jim was the one that found my fans unplugged and we plugged them in, and that made a hell of a difference - but since yours are good and working, something else might be wrong?
#22
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What you describe is exactly how my 924S runs, and has for years. I could probably dig into the fan switch temps and find a better suited one for the stock temp thermostat. My fans stay on a bit longer than they need to. It also helps to take the radiator out and pressure wash the fins - you would be amazed at the crud that collects in them. And, open the heater valve (turn the heat on) when you bleed.
I did forget to open the heater valve the first time I bled the system. I was used to working on the race car which had no heater!
#23
Racer
Join Date: May 2009
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I know that swapping out the 3 blade fans for 6 blade will help cooling as they draw more air, but I think instead of using the 481F (92/87) I would substitute for the 481 75/70 degree thermal switch. With an 82 degree stat you should maintain a fairly constant 89 degrees, never getting near 97... On series 1 cars, the middle bar.
#24
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The thermostat I put in is a 83*C, and the thermo fan switch is a 82*C.
As an update -- I have bled the crap out of the thing, just getting water no air, and no changes to the temp readings. Within 3-4 miles it'll hit the center 89* mark, then slowly creep up to the 97* mark and remain between about 94-97* continuously with the fans running on high.
As an update -- I have bled the crap out of the thing, just getting water no air, and no changes to the temp readings. Within 3-4 miles it'll hit the center 89* mark, then slowly creep up to the 97* mark and remain between about 94-97* continuously with the fans running on high.
#25
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The thermostat must be opening since the lower radiator hose is hot, and the water in the radiator is getting hot enough to switch the fans on. But the water in the expansion tank and the hoses to/from it are not hot at all.
Thoughts on this?
#26
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Early cars always run high on the gauge, it has to do with the gauge calibration. Have you cleaned the oil cooler? Every one I have opened up has a blasting media like substance in it. I realize this might not help your water temp situation but it is a good idea to get it cleaned if you are attackin all areas of the cooling system.
#27
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Early cars always run high on the gauge, it has to do with the gauge calibration. Have you cleaned the oil cooler? Every one I have opened up has a blasting media like substance in it. I realize this might not help your water temp situation but it is a good idea to get it cleaned if you are attackin all areas of the cooling system.
Are you saying 94-97*C is normal running temp?
#28
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In the summer it is normal for the gauge to get all the way up to the indicated 105 degree mark. As long as the fans kick on and they bring the temp down you are ok, I would only trust the gauge as a reference.
#29
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^^^^ what he said... All my messing around was for naught...I did not and do not have cooling issues, my tank was crazed so I changed it just in case, I wasn't loosing coolant, it kept pressure and still same thing.
I messed up my own original rad due to fan switch playing and striped threads cracked the plastic side tank too.. ...so I got a new one. Old one was definitely plugged in the face from cinders...and the new one exchanges heat better faster..... I see that...
Truth is it is from what I gather from others like ^^^ 944CS...they got me believing it is all normal. I just thought mine was weird acting and getting hot ...going to top of the scale and all... I am now 6,500 miles and 11 months 944 owner so no authority...
But I can see now if my car was moving I don't think I would even need fans ...it stays at center mark.
I messed up my own original rad due to fan switch playing and striped threads cracked the plastic side tank too.. ...so I got a new one. Old one was definitely plugged in the face from cinders...and the new one exchanges heat better faster..... I see that...
Truth is it is from what I gather from others like ^^^ 944CS...they got me believing it is all normal. I just thought mine was weird acting and getting hot ...going to top of the scale and all... I am now 6,500 miles and 11 months 944 owner so no authority...
But I can see now if my car was moving I don't think I would even need fans ...it stays at center mark.
#30
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So, maybe your 94-97*C doesn't mean that something's wrong!