Quick - Sway Bars
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Okay, upgrading the springs and torsion bars on the 88 Turbo S, and I have some questions about sway bars. I am thinking about adding the 968 M030 rear sway bar to my car at the same time. Is this worth while? Is the 88 T-S already adjustable (it's loose as hell back there), and if so, how much better is the 968 M030 sway bar?
Thanks
Mark
Thanks
Mark
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I would add both the front and the rear 968 M030 bars as they are a nice upgrade. I have them on my car. I think most '88 Turbo S cars came with an 18 mm rear bar, and the '89s had a 16 mm. Neither is adjustable. The 19 mm 968 bar is 3-way adjustable, and the price is cheap. Hendrick Porsche in Charlotte has the front bar for about $198. The rear bar should be about $110 or so, plus bushings.
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if its adjustable it might be the same as the m030 bar. ive got one of those bars from paragon and it did make a difference
Tom do they have them in stock or do they have to order them and why hasnt paragon reduced there price for the front bar? i mean $330 for a factory bar is kinda expensive but like i've been told before, if you wanna play, you've gotta pay.
i would like to get one of those fronts from them though, have to givem a call
Tom do they have them in stock or do they have to order them and why hasnt paragon reduced there price for the front bar? i mean $330 for a factory bar is kinda expensive but like i've been told before, if you wanna play, you've gotta pay.
i would like to get one of those fronts from them though, have to givem a call
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If your rear sway bar is loose, the bushings or brackets are probably broken. Swaybars should be firm. I recomend the 968m030's as they are a cheap upgrade almost as good as any aftermarket adjustable ones. Definetly the best swaybars that came with the original watercoolers.
Eirik Kvello-Aune
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Well, I'm ordering everything from Paragon (thanks Skip for the info online, and Jason for the great support so far on the phone). I'm just waiting to see if my rear yello konis need to go, or if they've just been set to the loosest setting. If the koni's stay, the rear bar goes in for sure, if they go, I may get the rear bar. I was considering the front at the same time, but it was kinda pricey to do all right now (as I am having to sue for damages from when someone hit me, rather than the shop just doing the 'right' thing). But if the front bar is over 100 cheaper from someone else then Paragon, I may have to switch vendors for that piece.
I wasn't sure if the T-S was adjustable or not, thanks for the response.
Mark
I wasn't sure if the T-S was adjustable or not, thanks for the response.
Mark
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The price of the front bar stock has come down. I wasn't aware of it until I saw this post and investigated a bit. I've lowered our price on the website to reflect this change. Our "kit" on the front includes the bar stock, 4 bushings and the two circlips that go on the end of the bar. New for the rear bar is the Racers Edge Delrin Bushing Kit.
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I'm ordering 350# front springs and the adapter stuff needed, and a 28mm rear torsion bar so I can bring the car down. I'm thinking about making that 29mm, but doubt I'll do it.
The question is to sway bar or not to sway bar. And I'm still pondering it. Decisions decisions. It'd be easier to spend the money if I knew that I could get my car being hit taken care of without having to pay anything, but I could end up with paying for it myself, or paying legal fees, and the estimate for front fender and painting is 1050 dollars. (there goes the rest of the suspension money and the start of my 3" Turbo back money too).
The question is to sway bar or not to sway bar. And I'm still pondering it. Decisions decisions. It'd be easier to spend the money if I knew that I could get my car being hit taken care of without having to pay anything, but I could end up with paying for it myself, or paying legal fees, and the estimate for front fender and painting is 1050 dollars. (there goes the rest of the suspension money and the start of my 3" Turbo back money too).
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[quote]Originally posted by PrerYDoG:
I'm ordering 350# front springs and the adapter stuff needed, and a 28mm rear torsion bar so I can bring the car down. I'm thinking about making that 29mm, but doubt I'll do it.<hr></blockquote>A better match for 350# springs would be 30 mm bars. Whatever you get, buy the hollow bars, they are lighter and have more range of motion. 30 mm bars would give you about 335 #/in at the wheel in the rear. Whatever, you do, this is going to be a LOT stiffer than stock. I have 300# springs in front and my front end is rock solid. With the stock 24 mm torsion bars and coilovers with 275# helpers my rear rate is roughly 305#. With the 968 M030 sway bars my car is absolutely neutral feeling. I think a 350/28 combination would push too much. A 250/28 combination would be a better match.
[quote]The question is to sway bar or not to sway bar. And I'm still pondering it.<hr></blockquote>I'd do the springs first and see how you like it... or maybe do just the opposite. Change out the sway bars first since they are MUCH easier (and cheaper) to change, then do the springs and T-bars if needed.
I'm ordering 350# front springs and the adapter stuff needed, and a 28mm rear torsion bar so I can bring the car down. I'm thinking about making that 29mm, but doubt I'll do it.<hr></blockquote>A better match for 350# springs would be 30 mm bars. Whatever you get, buy the hollow bars, they are lighter and have more range of motion. 30 mm bars would give you about 335 #/in at the wheel in the rear. Whatever, you do, this is going to be a LOT stiffer than stock. I have 300# springs in front and my front end is rock solid. With the stock 24 mm torsion bars and coilovers with 275# helpers my rear rate is roughly 305#. With the 968 M030 sway bars my car is absolutely neutral feeling. I think a 350/28 combination would push too much. A 250/28 combination would be a better match.
[quote]The question is to sway bar or not to sway bar. And I'm still pondering it.<hr></blockquote>I'd do the springs first and see how you like it... or maybe do just the opposite. Change out the sway bars first since they are MUCH easier (and cheaper) to change, then do the springs and T-bars if needed.
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Well, I want to do the stiffness first, as my last car was absolutely un-moveable as far as up and down. You could jump on the bumper and it'd just sit there. I was afraid that going above the 28mm torsion in the rear might make it TOO stiff and therefor bounce around turns, you think a 30 would be better? Maybe I'll comp and go for 29 then.
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[quote]Originally posted by PrerYDoG:
<strong>Well, I want to do the stiffness first, as my last car was absolutely un-moveable as far as up and down. You could jump on the bumper and it'd just sit there. I was afraid that going above the 28mm torsion in the rear might make it TOO stiff and therefor bounce around turns, you think a 30 would be better? Maybe I'll comp and go for 29 then.</strong><hr></blockquote>I guess I would ask if price is a consideration. If not, then you may want to go with a full rear coilover setup so you can change spring rates easily, or a torsion bar/helper spring setup like mine. I think once you decide on a torsion bar size you won't be changing them again anytime soon, which is why the coilovers are nice because you can swap springs so easily.
I know some guys run 400# or more front springs on the street, but I think 300-350 is the max I'd go for. If you really want the 28s in the rear I might stick with 250 in the front, then add the 30 mm sway bar to stiffen things up a bit. This will make a very nice setup that won't be too harsh.
My car is stiff, but not so stiff that I can't push down on the rear bumper and get some movement. It does not bounce around on the road or in turns. I did my homework when I selected the spring rates and it turned out extremely well balanced.
Have fun
<strong>Well, I want to do the stiffness first, as my last car was absolutely un-moveable as far as up and down. You could jump on the bumper and it'd just sit there. I was afraid that going above the 28mm torsion in the rear might make it TOO stiff and therefor bounce around turns, you think a 30 would be better? Maybe I'll comp and go for 29 then.</strong><hr></blockquote>I guess I would ask if price is a consideration. If not, then you may want to go with a full rear coilover setup so you can change spring rates easily, or a torsion bar/helper spring setup like mine. I think once you decide on a torsion bar size you won't be changing them again anytime soon, which is why the coilovers are nice because you can swap springs so easily.
I know some guys run 400# or more front springs on the street, but I think 300-350 is the max I'd go for. If you really want the 28s in the rear I might stick with 250 in the front, then add the 30 mm sway bar to stiffen things up a bit. This will make a very nice setup that won't be too harsh.
My car is stiff, but not so stiff that I can't push down on the rear bumper and get some movement. It does not bounce around on the road or in turns. I did my homework when I selected the spring rates and it turned out extremely well balanced.
Have fun
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hi all,
Just got the rear 19mm bar and billet mount installed to go with my 30mm front. the car was real pushy with the front bar upgrade only. In my short, kinda tame test drive, The car seemed very balanced and stable. This was with the bar on the softest setting. I need to find a big parking lot to really test it out. Hope the rear just isn't too stiff, cuz I can only stiffen it more, but seems cool now. Need to find the track again soon.
Jason
ps, it was kind of a PITA to do it on the ground, but feasible, shoulda used ramps...
Just got the rear 19mm bar and billet mount installed to go with my 30mm front. the car was real pushy with the front bar upgrade only. In my short, kinda tame test drive, The car seemed very balanced and stable. This was with the bar on the softest setting. I need to find a big parking lot to really test it out. Hope the rear just isn't too stiff, cuz I can only stiffen it more, but seems cool now. Need to find the track again soon.
Jason
ps, it was kind of a PITA to do it on the ground, but feasible, shoulda used ramps...