chris_v

get a wire brush on a drill and gently clean those pistons, they look fine.

If you really feel the need to pull the engine taking it out the top isnt so bad.

1. remove all wiring/hoses.
2. take off exhaust manifold, (late manifolds are much easier than early)
3. take off starter
4. take off clutch slave cylinder from bellhousing (you can leave line attached to cylinder, just make sure to take off the 2 annoying 10mm bolts that hold the line to the bellhousing and engine.
5. remove the 4 torque tube bolts, )
6. remove 4 engine mount bolts,
7. remove sway bar,
8. unbolt steering linkage,
9. attach engine hoist to engine and make chains taut or even lift engine slightly,
10. take off 4 crossmember and 4 rear A-arm bolts, drop crossmember,
11. detach steering linkage (may require prybar),
12. pull engine forward to clear torque tube,
13. angle front of engine high up to clear radiator mount (a load leveler really helps),
14. slowly jack up engine making sure you are clear of everything,
15. if crank pulley hits the hood latch use pry bar to gently convince it to clear.
16. drink a beer (or two)

Van

Oh, for heaven's sake. If you're not going to put a used head on there, put in an LS1. At least then your time and money will make the car faster...

thirdgenbird

ive thought about it, but with that work i would rather have a 3.0 (maybe im crazy)

the used head is still a very valid option, but i know a machinist whose father builds race heads. he called me after this event and told me they could help me for a very reasonable fee.

i dont really want to cut corners on this car.

thirdgenbird

found a remanufactured head. if i verify the casting number (i hear there are two) i will probably buy it.

anyone have any advice on making ksure no garbage gets left in the engine and scores the walls? i HAD perfect leak down numbers before this disaster.

Jay W

I used a really strong magnet to pull as much steel out as I could get. Then I used a shop vac with a straw or small tube taped to the end to get really good suction around the edges of the pistons. I did not turn over the engine before cleaning for fear I had dirt that had fallen in. Lastly I poured a little oil around each piston that was "up" and slowly moved the piston down and the oil held any remaining dirt on the cylinder wall and I was able to wipe it off. Maybe overkill on some things but I wanted it as clean as possible.

thirdgenbird

those are some of the methods i thought of trying. the biggest problem is the motor has already been turned over. originally it looked like it just slipped out if time 25% and died. (it was idling in the driveway when it quit

75ohm

Oh man... sorry to learn this happened to you... good luck on the repair!

John_AZ

To avoid getting some carbon between the pistons and the walls, put some grease all around the top of the pistons and the cyl wall. You can then wipe it away with the carbon or the gasket material that will fall in.

I do not recommend you remove the top cyl wall carbon ring. It provides sealing on the combustion stroke.

Removing the carbon from the top of pistons is an owners choice. Be careful.

Use acetone to get the final head gasket material off. Do not put any scratches in the metal.

Use a tube and vacuum to get the crud between the cyl walls and block. In the rear gally, the coolant sludge looks like silver paste. Get it all out.

Follow the head torque procedure. New nuts and oil the head bolts. The scuffed side (you scuff) of the reused head washers are down. Make sure the washers do not move. Wait 30 to 45 minutes between the next torque. I gently tap the head around the perimiter to help seat the gasket---and cross my fingers.

Sorry to hear what happened.

GL
John_AZ

Mike C.

The wealth of information here still amazes me sometimes... Hopefully this car isn't your daily drive. Take your time and triple check each step. I'm sure you won't make that mistake again.

thirdgenbird

thanks. i appreciate the support. the car and i have been through a lot together, its been a painful experience. (im still beating myself up over it)

thank you for the excellent post. i never thought about grease. do you recommend a white lithium grease or something more like wheel bearing grease?

i am almost certain i found the head i am going to buy (same casting number, cleaned, 3 angle valve job, resurfaced, pressure checked, new valve stem seals)

the biggest question i have now is if i am going to pull the bottom end apart, clean everything, replace the rings, and replace the bearings (ALL things i have never done) or just clean it to the best of my ability and reinstall. any advice? can i lean on you for more info during this project?

the car has about 74k and i dont intend to sell it

nope, not the daily:


the porsche is just a passion, weekend entertainment, and a way to learn how to wrench. before i got this car, i had only ever done minor repairs an mods (see the truck above) but now ive done some pretty major things (ie clutch, coilovers, and now this)

you better believe this wont happen again (but it wont be the last mistake i make i am sure)

John_AZ

IMO, at 74K and good compression numbers, I would not do the rings. It takes 50K just to break the rings into the alusil cylinder walls.

I know you want to do a lot more now.

You just installed the FOES (front of engine seals).

With the head off you can do a lot of maintenance under the intake manifold.

Replace all pinch clamps with non perforated screw clamps and fuel injection hose clamps.
Replace the AOS seals

Gap the reference sensors. Remove the sensors if you can and put some antiseize on the sensors. Try to remove the reference sensor bracket 2 pan head bolts. If they come loose, replace with a 13mm bolt. These steps will help when you do the clutch job. Much easier to get at with the intake off.

Have you ever changed the OPRV housing gaskets? Get the alignment tool.
Clean the ICV/ISV and check the hoses for cracks. Replace the rubber mounts if cracked.
Replace the vacuum lines with a Lindsay Racing kit.
Do you have white deposits on the heater control valve? If yes its leaking on the clutch.

Check the condition of the intake boot. Any cracks?

As you procede, you will see other things to do like clean grounds and all electrical connections-carefully.

Any grease will do. A clear lithium may work better to see any carbon on the cyl walls.

GL
John_AZ

thirdgenbird

thanks again.

-front engine seals are fresh (i may do a timing belt now that mine has skipped)
-clamps are still stock, i will look into this.
-i changed the aos seals 2 years ago
-OPRV? fill me in (sorry, still learning)
-i gapped the sensors (and notched the bellhousing) when i did the clutch (i hope that was ok)
-there is some sort of broken mount under there...
-ive got the lindsey vacuum kit on my to do list
-i dont believe i have deposits
-intake boot is a touch dry, but no cracks
-i do have a ground issue somewhere

i am also going to do a lot of engine bay cleaning, and paint a few things (intake manifold, cam box, ignition cover) it was something i wanted to do anyway.

my biggest fear is doing all of this and then finding that my compression/leakdown got significantly worse.

John_AZ

OPRV and oil cooler housing.
The '87 had a history of bad oil cooler housing gaskets. It is an easy job to do with the head off.

You have to have the "late" OPRV alignment tool. PM me.
If the OPRV is not installed correctly, the OPRV valve will bind.

Get the seal kit and an aluminum crush washer for the valve or you will have constant drips.

Oil the oil cooler 2 big "O" rings or they will "roll" and leak

When you install the housing, I put a thin layer of Permatex Copper RTV in the big housing groove-with an artist paint brush.

There are 2 small "O" rings on the OPRV valve. Replace them both.

GL
John_AZ

Mike C.

I was going to suggest notching the bellhousing... I see you have done your homework.

thirdgenbird

the cooler seals failed shortly after i bought the car 2 years ago an i had the local dealer pressure check the cooler and reseal the housing (this was when i decided i would do all the future repairs )

there was no way i was going to fight that bell housing BACK on while working with a creeper and jack stands