please be kind. i replaced the front seals this weekend and in haste putting it back together i forgot to lock down the tenser. obviously, the belt slipped, and now i have valve and piston damage.

carnage



questions:
can i pull the motor out from the top in this state? how?
will i be able to roll/ trailer the chassis?
what does upgrading to high compression pistons involve?
would i be a fool to get a lindsey head?


totally hypothetical, but what happens if i get a 3L crank (stroked to 2.8), high compression pistons, and 2.7 injectors?

 

Pistons don't look that bad.

If it were me, I'd get a good used head for a few hundred $$ and just put it on.

To answer your questions:

• Usually people pull these motors out the bottom...
• Yes you can roll the car in neutral
• Changing pistons usually requires the engine to come out and be rebuilt on a stand - plus you'll spend about $2k in "while you're in there" stuff
• Depends on what your final goals for the motor are...

 

thanks van.

would it run well with the pistons as is?

-i know the bottom is usual, but thats going to be hard where it died. can it come out the top?
-i should have clarified, can the car be rolled if the entire engine is out
-i am prepared to build it on a stand (but im a virgin) the clutch, front seals, and oil cooler are all fresh on this block
-what do you mean by this? if it means anything, i love the car, and its basically been my way of learning how to wrench (i learned a lot this weekend...) im not afraid of spending time on it, i just dont want to waste time on it. what could i expect if i built it in this manner? what else would i need to support these mods?

 

i got a head ill sell you for 100$

 

very interested. any info? is it in good shape?

 

what is the best way to cover/protect the motor when it is like this?

unfortunately, the car is outside. i have plastic bags over the cylinders with some rags over that for weight. (obviously, the hood is down as well)

 

i've never had a motor sitting inside but when its on the stand in the garage i take shop towel pieces and tape it covering the cylinders and then put just a little tarp over the motor so no dust gets in.

 

You'll probably have to drop the crossmember to get the engine out the top, so you'd have to put the c-member back to be able to roll it. Actually I've been wondering, can you leave everything connected to the crossmember, just remove the caster blocks, steering input shaft, and lower the crossmember to do this?

 

swaybar has to come off.

 

I think the piston damage is minimal and won't affect performance at all...

My comment about Lindsey was more to mean: they have a lot of products, so it's easy to spend a lot of money with them. However, unless you have a specific goal, and you get all the parts to meet that goal, you might find yourself spending a lot, but not realizing any real performance gain. For example, right now, a $100 used head will give the car a lot more power than it has now (0 --> 165 HP). You could easily spend $1500 on a Lindsey head, and a few other goodies, and maybe get to 175 HP... You have to decide how deep your pockets are and what it will take to reach your goals.

 

chances are i will do the used head route, but is stroking a NA car a joke?

 

Lyndsey has those options at building racing N/A engines, so maybe they have customers interested in that?

sorry to see this man

 

Sucks, but I can see how easy it would be to forget something. You get yourself all revved up cuz you can see the light at the end of the tunnel...and WHOOPS!

Grab a used head and new gasket and ride on brother!

 

Sorry to hear the news but I agree, buy a used head.

 

i just dont want to regret not doing pistons. are there really no side effects? do i need to clean the faces?