I've read through some post on this topic but havent found what I'm looking for. I'm trying to tension new belts with the Kriket tool but cant get a good location on the belt to take the measurement. The autotensioner makes it hard to set it on the belt. Where do I take the measurements for both belts?

Pics are even better

 

Hello wcfrog, Check out clarks garage.com at the link below. The tool you are using is not the most accurate of tool to use. You have to take the readings 7-10 times to come up with a half butt reading. Remember it is 40 lbs for the cam belt and 28 lbs for the balance belt. The spring tensioner has to be pushed up and locked so it is not touching the cam belt while you tension the belt. All in the link below. I would toss the Kriket tool and buy the more accurate Optibelt tool

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-10.htm

http://www.944online.com/pdf/optibelt_instructions.pdf

Cheers,
Larry

 

Thanks Larry. Based on the second article you sent it looks like I need to take a couple of parts back off to get the reading. There's so many different schools of thought on this procedure.
Out of all the articles written I still havent seen a picture of where you are supposed to get your reading on each belt of an S2.

 

welcome to ... oh hai

 

I'm not familiar with the S2 engines, but on my 8v turbo engine, the auto-tensioner get surprisingly close to the factory spec.

 

Twist method ftw!

 

An opinion.

The 16 valve head is too expensive to replace take a guess with the Krikut tension estimate.

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ell-as-is.html

Arnnworx tools, a shop or an experienced mechanic. www.arnnworx.com

GL
John_AZ

 

The Krikit is a tool best used to prop up a garage door or something. It is especially MORE useless on 16 valve cars.

The auto tensioner was designed to keep the correct tension on the timing belt...unless its rusted it will keep it very close to specs. Remove it and make sure its clean of oil and crap, and re-install.

I'd let it do its job, and use the twist method for extra assurance.

Some guys may naysay and tell you use the 9201 tool...but unless you are experienced with it, you likely won't get tension that accurate anyway, and you'll have to pay someone to do it ATF.

Heck, you could even plan it that way. Do it twist-style, then have a pro recheck the tension.

 

I screwed a bottle opener on the end of it so now it can be used for something

[QUOTE=harrisonrick;7482055]The Krikit is a tool best used to prop up a garage door or something. It is especially MORE useless on 16 valve cars.

 

OK question: Is the preparation sequence (finding TDC and backing off by 10 degrees or so etc) the same for the spring tensioner as for tensioning with the factory 9201 tool? I haven't found any change in procedure in the factory manual but it seems to me as though the procedure should be different because the tension is being checked/applied on the slack side in one case and the tension side in the other.

Any comment? Hope my question makes sense.

 

With the "Tension roller"---older 944s, you back the crank CCW 1.5 cam teeth--10 degrees

With the "Spring tensioner" later 944s, you set the belt tension at TDC!

Now, that is the official book information, see pic.

BUT-----
I have the spring tensioner. I have always had to set the crank CCW 1/2 cam tooth to set the proper tension.

I use the "water pump pully test" as a second test.

The official P9201 tension tool may put too much pressure on an old water pump bearing/seal when a new belt is installed.

From the Porsche technical spec page:

 

Great info, thanks 1000000 John! I'll put that page in my manual (Ebay PDF copy with more than 1 page missing).

I have (and have used) the Arnworx tools; if I can confirm that my spring tensioner is consistently accurate it will save some time.