Charles A. Toupin

The main problem I have with the aftermarket seats, brackets and sliders is head clearance.

I have a tall torso so my head was rubbing off the roof (racecar, no more anything inside). The way the stock mounts are makes it difficult to add any metal tabs on where to mount the rest of the assembly and still get head clearance. Metal tabs (what Joe is thinking of) + sliders + seats does not make it for me.

I could do without sliders, which would solve this problem, but will create a new one: will I be able to climb off the car with the cage, the hans, the helmet and the seat side restraint (I have the HRV seat...).

It's been a real pain for me. So I came up with the idea of a stainless steel tab. I shall have them tomorrow and I will post pictures during the weekend.

Now it seems that I will also have to take care of the stock mounting location...

Joe, can you explain more in details what is you idea of the floor tubong you are thinking of?



c.

roman944

not sure how you have headroom issues

my only issue is the seat's width

the top "ears" are touching the door panel (but not pushing against it)

I think I like Joe's idea - I might ask the guy who's going to be welding the floor for me if he can weld a piece of square tubing for me in place of stock 'seat mounts" - and use this tubing as a new seat mount, and do what Joe did - bolt right through the floor with plates underneath

wonder if I'll still be able to use stock seat belt holes for a 6pt?

roman944

hm, I was thinking - and here's another problem I might be facing

my sidemounts are right angle L shaped - on both seats

I may have to "mix" them up, and mount both sidemounts like:

1) L *seat* L

or

2) _I *seat* _I

because if they are mounted like this

L *seat* _I

then the distance between the holes is 17"

while stock location for sliders is only 16"

which means I would have to "step" .5" from each side to drill new holes ... which is not THAT much room ... though I am sure it would still be stable

I'd rather have the mounts like in #1 and step 1" from the existing hole, just to be on the safe side

also, another *stupid* moment of mine, I have NOT actually had both seats in the car ... so I don't know if the "wings" of the seat are going to overlap or not ... the 2nd seat might actually not be useful ... but I'll check this out today

Joe, how thick of a plate did you use for underneath the car? It doesn't has to be REALLY thick does it? I was thinking that an old computer case siding might work ... these things are surprisingly sturdy ... and I have somewhat of abundance of these, LOL

roman944

but all in all, I have 2-3 options of how I could mount the seats, once my floors are patched, I'll be sure to take pics and make explanations for "future"

Charles A. Toupin

Definitive headroom issue for me with the helmet on, even if I'm only 5'10... SS Bracket are supposed to be ready this afternoon.

c.

M758

The larger and thicker the base plate under the floor the better. I used what had laying around. Just remember there is alot of force in crash and you don't things bending or ripping out.

Charles A. Toupin

Here is my solution. It works. I had to modify the Racetech brackets a bit. BTW, my wouldn't move for picture!

c.

roman944

Thanks Charles!

I would have had to drill out the same hole s you did, lol

you have your adapters running from front to back, I was thinking that it might be "safer" having the bar run across the sliders?

did the holes on your sliders align exactly to the original seat mounts on the car's floor? on mine looks like I'll have to drill a new hole on the slider ... or I bolt through the floor like Joe did

Charles A. Toupin

My pleasure!

I can't have a bar run across the sliders: anti submarine belts...

Everything aligns perfectly, no holes to be drilled!

c.