seat mount question
#31
Thanks Joe and Charles
Joe - I always liked that picture, makes it look good and strong. How long are those bolts in the front? And how thick are the plates underneath?
I guess I could do this, and this would let me use both the sliders that I have now, and the sidemounts that I have now - since I won't be constrained by factory bolt locations.
Did you rip out the front mounting bar in your car? That would lower the seat a lot. Any way to raise it? Or weld new bar in the front and new bar in the back? Get rid of the e-brake? How long are the bolts that you used? And how thick are those plates underneath?
It's not a dedicated track car, I'll be doing autocrosses first to get my driving/reaction better, but eventually - I'd like to do "more" with it.
I haven't touched suspension/brakes yet (other then SS lines). I want to get it running good/cool, and get the inside good to where I am comfortable. And the rest comes on after.
Joe - I always liked that picture, makes it look good and strong. How long are those bolts in the front? And how thick are the plates underneath?
I guess I could do this, and this would let me use both the sliders that I have now, and the sidemounts that I have now - since I won't be constrained by factory bolt locations.
Did you rip out the front mounting bar in your car? That would lower the seat a lot. Any way to raise it? Or weld new bar in the front and new bar in the back? Get rid of the e-brake? How long are the bolts that you used? And how thick are those plates underneath?
It's not a dedicated track car, I'll be doing autocrosses first to get my driving/reaction better, but eventually - I'd like to do "more" with it.
I haven't touched suspension/brakes yet (other then SS lines). I want to get it running good/cool, and get the inside good to where I am comfortable. And the rest comes on after.
#32
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From: Under Your Car
If you are going to track the car the best way to mount the seat is not with the stock bolts and stock locations. These are not really strong enough in a crash.
There are many ways to mount it better, but you should at minimum drill 4 hole through the floor. Then using at least 3/8" bolts bolt the side rails or slideers down. The on the back side use at least 2" by 2" plates to back up these bolts. This may not be idea on the inboard side due to lines under the car, but you get the idea.
(the goldish plates are for my sub strap)
It would be even better to rip out the factory forward cross bar and install a much thicker strong cross bar from the outside sill to the tunnel. In a rear impact the floor can bend and stronger you make the floor the better. If you don't replace the cross factory cross bar leave it in place.
There are many ways to mount it better, but you should at minimum drill 4 hole through the floor. Then using at least 3/8" bolts bolt the side rails or slideers down. The on the back side use at least 2" by 2" plates to back up these bolts. This may not be idea on the inboard side due to lines under the car, but you get the idea.
(the goldish plates are for my sub strap)
It would be even better to rip out the factory forward cross bar and install a much thicker strong cross bar from the outside sill to the tunnel. In a rear impact the floor can bend and stronger you make the floor the better. If you don't replace the cross factory cross bar leave it in place.
This car went it backwards into the wall on turn 9 at HPT this last weekend. Luckily driver was ok. Seat ripped right out of the floor, seat back brace was ineffective and just rotated down (was backed up with welded bolts which didn't help). Her head glanced under the rear diagonal bar when it went backwards, she is very short. A tall person would have eaten it in the back of the neck.
#34
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From: Under Your Car
#37
wow that looks like a good hit too - check out that driver's side rear (bottom left) - wow
the thing with the slider is that, the part where the bolt goes into is about 3/4", plus I gotta be able to fit a socket to the bolt
so 3/8 or MAYBE 1/2" bolt sounds about right ... but if it goes right through the mounting bar, then it has to be one long bolt, no?
the thing with the slider is that, the part where the bolt goes into is about 3/4", plus I gotta be able to fit a socket to the bolt
so 3/8 or MAYBE 1/2" bolt sounds about right ... but if it goes right through the mounting bar, then it has to be one long bolt, no?
#38
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From: Under Your Car
#40
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From: Under Your Car
She was up walking around and felt fine after the accident. I finally talked one of our past region presidents into making her go to the hospital and get xrays. They had initially had her sign a waiver, but in that kind of wreck, you can have a severely injured, but non-symptomatic person that can be walking around fine, then all of a sudden turn their head the wrong way and that's all she wrote. I saw them leave for the hospital, and didn't hear anything about it after that, so I assume she checked out ok.
It is really hard to gauge the severity of a wreck from a small fender bender to something like this, but I was a little surprised there wasn't a PCA regulation that requires you to go to the hospital and get checked after a wreck like that. Since it was a PCA sanctioned club race, their official scruitineer was on hand to oversee it, I would have thought they would have done a little more than just written up the incident report.
It is really hard to gauge the severity of a wreck from a small fender bender to something like this, but I was a little surprised there wasn't a PCA regulation that requires you to go to the hospital and get checked after a wreck like that. Since it was a PCA sanctioned club race, their official scruitineer was on hand to oversee it, I would have thought they would have done a little more than just written up the incident report.
#41
Doc,
Thanks for sharing. It never good to post carnage pictures, but learning is very important. It looks like another 944 rear impact I have seen. The tub holds up quite well except for the floor pan. Seems like the weak point in rear impact is the seat mounting (be it the bolts or the floor). This tells me over the summer I need to add in a stronger cross bar in the floor.
Thanks for sharing. It never good to post carnage pictures, but learning is very important. It looks like another 944 rear impact I have seen. The tub holds up quite well except for the floor pan. Seems like the weak point in rear impact is the seat mounting (be it the bolts or the floor). This tells me over the summer I need to add in a stronger cross bar in the floor.
#42
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From: Under Your Car
Doc,
Thanks for sharing. It never good to post carnage pictures, but learning is very important. It looks like another 944 rear impact I have seen. The tub holds up quite well except for the floor pan. Seems like the weak point in rear impact is the seat mounting (be it the bolts or the floor). This tells me over the summer I need to add in a stronger cross bar in the floor.
Thanks for sharing. It never good to post carnage pictures, but learning is very important. It looks like another 944 rear impact I have seen. The tub holds up quite well except for the floor pan. Seems like the weak point in rear impact is the seat mounting (be it the bolts or the floor). This tells me over the summer I need to add in a stronger cross bar in the floor.
#43
see in my case, my rear driver's seat mount has cracks around it right now - I finally got someone to come out and look at it and see if he can weld it in
now I was thinking that maybe I should ask him to weld in a bar right where rear seat mounts are right now - and then maybe do what Joe has done, and drill holes right through t he floors?
I'm kind of weary about that rear seat mount now, stock bolts or not, because its going to be welded, so how prone is it going to be to cracking/breaking again?
I guess for a low-speed/autocross, I should be fine even with stock bolts, but if I was to do something more serious, I think I agree with Joe
on the other hand, why bother doing it "for now" if I can have it done right now and not worry about it in the future ...
now I was thinking that maybe I should ask him to weld in a bar right where rear seat mounts are right now - and then maybe do what Joe has done, and drill holes right through t he floors?
I'm kind of weary about that rear seat mount now, stock bolts or not, because its going to be welded, so how prone is it going to be to cracking/breaking again?
I guess for a low-speed/autocross, I should be fine even with stock bolts, but if I was to do something more serious, I think I agree with Joe
on the other hand, why bother doing it "for now" if I can have it done right now and not worry about it in the future ...
#44
It may have been the floor mounting that ripped off or the brackets/seat assembly too... Do Corbeau seats are FIA approved?
I have seen a few 944 crash before and it's the first time I hear about the weakness of the floorpan... Is it a common failure?
C.
I have seen a few 944 crash before and it's the first time I hear about the weakness of the floorpan... Is it a common failure?
C.
#45
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From: Under Your Car
My guess is the stock mounts ripped out of the floor. Seats have to be FIA approved for use in Club Racing, so i assume they are.