Well, at the very least, I should borrow the tool and show people how it's used. We can see how close my "by feel" method is.

I'm out of town this coming weekend, but am hoping to get the water pump back on the following weekend. (Also doing manual steering and a rebuilt turbo.)

 

Great job! It did not convince me that I could do it myself, but it did make me feel a LOT better about what I paid to have it done for me!

 

Of course, we'd never wish any misfortune to one of our Rennlisters for our own personal gain but yes, a detailed video on a clutch R&R would be invaluable. Just keep it simple for me....Something like; "944 Clutch For Dummies."

 

Excellent video Van! I am a Audi tech at a Porsche Audi dealer and even though I have the info at my fingertips I still learn better by visual so this willhelp me alot. I do not have a turbo but the set up looks pretty much identical to the N/A setup. Only difference I see is the tensioner. Mine is manual I believe.
Anyone have any insight to any differences?

 

Nah - after you take the intake off, it's all the same. N/A cars after '86 have the auto tensioner and water pump with the chrome guide. The water pump footprints are the same - the turbo waterpump has an extra hose fitting on it.

 

Van,
Your timing is impeccable!!! I am tackling this job as we speak. I have every article, thread, and bar napkin ever written on this. Your videos REALLY help out with what the articles are trying to explain.
I've got TDC and my lock in. I also have the 24mm bolt off the crank pulley but the pulley is really on there. How hard can I bang/pry on this to get it off?
I could also use a front engine seal/races video once I get there
Look forward to the reassembly. Are going to specify torque settings as well?
As the newbie your videos have helped a ton!
Kory

 

+1 Im afraid im going to get the tension on the belt wrong.

 

Well, the first pulley that comes off is the power steering one - that's just held in place by the squeeze of the 24mm bolt. The alternator/AC compressor drive pulley is attached to the balance shaft sprocket. These do tend to rust on a bit - so banging and prying is normal. Just try to do your banging and prying evenly - a little bit on each side until you can get it to wiggle free. Same story with the little (timing) sprocket (though you'll mostly pry for that one.)

After all the sprockets are off, you need to take the key out - this is usually pretty easy to do with diagonal cutters.

I'm not going to change my front seal, because I changed it in the fall (and I don't have a spare). But, can do a "supplement" video for that step (since it sounds like it'll be useful).

And, sure, I'll go over torque specs when I put it back together.

 

haha i bleed alot when i did this on mine! but i bleed more when i stuck my finger in my jeeps cooling fan(while it was running) and took off most my finger nail

 

I would like to see more DIY videos like front strut replacement, oil cooler seal replacement and motor mounts.

 

WOW nice work. Great quality video. What other videos are in the works ???

Thanks VAN you are the MAN

 

fwiw i did this by necessity in my friends driveway. it was the first maintainence i ever did to the car. time consuming...had to do a few things more than once to get it perfect. But no carnage, nobody died, lol. Id say go for it. Just read all the instructions from clarks garage first. Make sure you buy all the parts necessary as well as the "while you're in there" stuff. That cricket type belt tool takes a second to get the hang of. but the fact is, as long as your belts are tight enough to not slip (and really thats not all that tight) nothings gonna immediatley explode cuz u didnt do it 1000% perfect on the tension.

 

Wow. When you stop talking and get to work...you work really fast!

 

Thank You

 

Thanks, nice DIY. It clears many things to me.