Anyone here got tension specs for KRIKET
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Cam belt: 40lbs for a new belt, 30lbs. for an old belt
Balance belt: 28-30lbs.
I got these numbers from somebody here who checked it against the 9201.
Balance belt: 28-30lbs.
I got these numbers from somebody here who checked it against the 9201.
#3
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Thanx Pete. I know ppl are tired of seeing me post on this tool, but I'm trying to make sure I have all the info I need before I take the first bolt loose.
I'll try to post the result when I'm done.
One more question. I'm a little confused about some of the procedures. Do I need a Pulley tool to take off any of the rollers, tensioners, or idlers?
I'll try to post the result when I'm done.
One more question. I'm a little confused about some of the procedures. Do I need a Pulley tool to take off any of the rollers, tensioners, or idlers?
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You'll need a flywheel lock, a 26mm (I think) socket, and a large breaker bar to remove the crank pulley if you're changing the water pump. The rollers and idlers just slip right off. To remove the balance shaft sprockets, what I did was wrap the OLD belt around them and hold them with a large vise grip so I could break the bolts loose. Don't tighten the vise grip too much, just enough to hold the sprocket. When you reassemble, remember that on the upper balance shaft sprocket the woodruff key points to "O" and on the lower sprocket it points to "U".
If you get into a problem, post it, someone here will help you out.
If you get into a problem, post it, someone here will help you out.
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The first time that I did my belts I had to use a puller on the crank pulleys because it had been a very long time since the PO had the belts done. The pulleys just slide off now.
You will also need a pin spanner to hold the balancer pulleys stationary if you need to change the seals underneath. I bought mine from Grainger but they are widely available.
Hop that this helps.
You will also need a pin spanner to hold the balancer pulleys stationary if you need to change the seals underneath. I bought mine from Grainger but they are widely available.
Hop that this helps.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by threesticks1:
<strong>You will also need a pin spanner to hold the balancer pulleys stationary if you need to change the seals underneath.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I couldn't find a pin spanner that's why I used the old belt/vise-grip trick. It worked great.
<strong>You will also need a pin spanner to hold the balancer pulleys stationary if you need to change the seals underneath.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I couldn't find a pin spanner that's why I used the old belt/vise-grip trick. It worked great.
#7
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thanx for the info..
I have pin spanner. I was looking at the front of my engine earlier and nitced that i may have to pull the fan assmbly.
Also, the guy that was giong to do the work for me told me to be careful taking the waterpump off dur to the old stud/bolts arnt coated and tend to weaken resulting in ringing it off. ANy tips on this? I dont want to have to retap.
I have pin spanner. I was looking at the front of my engine earlier and nitced that i may have to pull the fan assmbly.
Also, the guy that was giong to do the work for me told me to be careful taking the waterpump off dur to the old stud/bolts arnt coated and tend to weaken resulting in ringing it off. ANy tips on this? I dont want to have to retap.
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