WTB
02-23-2010, 06:08 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
WTB
Maybe you all can help me out here. I am looking for a 944 turbo to really use on a track and just enjoy. I already have a 964, but quite honestly don't want to abuse the 964 because low miles etc, but want to have fun in a porsche.
So looking for advice on what to look for in a 944. Years to avoid and what prices should be.
So looking for advice on what to look for in a 944. Years to avoid and what prices should be.
02-24-2010, 01:47 PM
#2
Advanced
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, prices seem to be all over the place so I won't comment on that. As far as what to look for, condition is paramount. These cars will run for a long time, but people like to drive them into the ground by not doing basic mantanaince.
The 86' came with the old style control arms, so the ball joints are a bit cheaper, but the 87' and up came with the new alluminum control arms with improved geometry, better wheel offsets, etc. The turbo S has a slightly larger turbo, and some other goodies that you may or may not care for.
People always mention the belts as being labor intensive, but they really aren't that bad to do yourself. The clutch is a pain to replace so you'll probably want one with a good clutch. Vacuum lines are crap on a 30 year old car, but if they haven't been replaced they are pretty easy to do yourself. You'll want to check for coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant; these cars have a habit of leaking oil cooler seals. There shouldn't be any rust on the car, and obviously you will want to check all the normal stuff you'd check on a used car.
Really, you'll probably just want the one in the best condition you can find.
The 86' came with the old style control arms, so the ball joints are a bit cheaper, but the 87' and up came with the new alluminum control arms with improved geometry, better wheel offsets, etc. The turbo S has a slightly larger turbo, and some other goodies that you may or may not care for.
People always mention the belts as being labor intensive, but they really aren't that bad to do yourself. The clutch is a pain to replace so you'll probably want one with a good clutch. Vacuum lines are crap on a 30 year old car, but if they haven't been replaced they are pretty easy to do yourself. You'll want to check for coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant; these cars have a habit of leaking oil cooler seals. There shouldn't be any rust on the car, and obviously you will want to check all the normal stuff you'd check on a used car.
Really, you'll probably just want the one in the best condition you can find.
02-24-2010, 02:44 PM
#4
Nordschleife Master
If you can do ALL the work yourself, set a price point and buy the best car that fits it (I have done this twice, and been pretty happy, but I do all my own work)
If you cannot or prefer not to do the work yourself, buy the best example you can afford... A NICE 951 will command a price equal to its condition and history (have been north of 15K in recent history)..
I got my 944 for $4200 with not much needing done other than the obligatory timing belt... drove it for a year before the clutch blew out (rubber center)... 4 months and many new pieces later it was back on the road for 6 months before it spun a balance shaft bearing... it has sat since (mainy because 1 month after it broke I bought my 951)
I got my 951 for $3200.. it needed maintenance straight away (vacuum lines, throtle body, turbo rebuild, all new suspension, all new brakes, paint was fried, muffler was rotten, #3 still has excesive blow by from the rings (soon to be resolved with new engine), etc.. etc.. etc..) .
All said and done I am in my 88 N/A for almost 8K and my 951 for almost 10K, but have daily driven a Porsche for most of the last 2.5 years, and have loved every minute of it...
A reliable 951 is bone stock, and has maintenance history... and you MIGHT get lucky and find this for under 10K.. the farter you go below 10K be prepared to spend money to have it brough up to snuff.. Track use will dictate different maintenance, as most tracks are hesitant to clear you through tech with conditions that are tollerable for street use (anyone out there have leaking PS rack or small oil leaks?)
A modified 951 CAN be reliable, but the amount of work and reliability are usually price dependent and are not mutualy exclusive...
87 and later cars have a much broader selection of wheels for use, but an 86 can be fitted with the 87+ running gear to use the "late offset". 88 Tubo S and 89 and after 951s have higher engine output, and are generally in beter condition due to age, but were also produced in declining numbers, so there are fewer of them out there..
Sport seats are REALLY nice to have, but I wouldn't consider them a must as most track cars are seeing seat swaps, sunroof delete cars are RARE, but can be had...
If you have the time and space these cars can be a joy to own and to work on, if you don't have the time or the space, be prepared to have the $$ to have them worked on...
to wrap up, find the best one you can afford, or buy a cheap one and be prepared to work on it.. parts are readilly available, and if you take your time you can have a lot of fun with them...
If you cannot or prefer not to do the work yourself, buy the best example you can afford... A NICE 951 will command a price equal to its condition and history (have been north of 15K in recent history)..
I got my 944 for $4200 with not much needing done other than the obligatory timing belt... drove it for a year before the clutch blew out (rubber center)... 4 months and many new pieces later it was back on the road for 6 months before it spun a balance shaft bearing... it has sat since (mainy because 1 month after it broke I bought my 951)
I got my 951 for $3200.. it needed maintenance straight away (vacuum lines, throtle body, turbo rebuild, all new suspension, all new brakes, paint was fried, muffler was rotten, #3 still has excesive blow by from the rings (soon to be resolved with new engine), etc.. etc.. etc..) .
All said and done I am in my 88 N/A for almost 8K and my 951 for almost 10K, but have daily driven a Porsche for most of the last 2.5 years, and have loved every minute of it...
A reliable 951 is bone stock, and has maintenance history... and you MIGHT get lucky and find this for under 10K.. the farter you go below 10K be prepared to spend money to have it brough up to snuff.. Track use will dictate different maintenance, as most tracks are hesitant to clear you through tech with conditions that are tollerable for street use (anyone out there have leaking PS rack or small oil leaks?)
A modified 951 CAN be reliable, but the amount of work and reliability are usually price dependent and are not mutualy exclusive...
87 and later cars have a much broader selection of wheels for use, but an 86 can be fitted with the 87+ running gear to use the "late offset". 88 Tubo S and 89 and after 951s have higher engine output, and are generally in beter condition due to age, but were also produced in declining numbers, so there are fewer of them out there..
Sport seats are REALLY nice to have, but I wouldn't consider them a must as most track cars are seeing seat swaps, sunroof delete cars are RARE, but can be had...
If you have the time and space these cars can be a joy to own and to work on, if you don't have the time or the space, be prepared to have the $$ to have them worked on...
to wrap up, find the best one you can afford, or buy a cheap one and be prepared to work on it.. parts are readilly available, and if you take your time you can have a lot of fun with them...
02-24-2010, 07:09 PM
#5
Advanced
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To the o.p.; you might want to keep an eye out for the m030 option which included stiffer springs, sways, and adjustable konis (which may or may not still be worth anything depending on how many miles the car has). Also, someone has already noted the sports seat and the sunroof delete "option". Mine does not have a sunroof, and while they are hard to find, I think it's worth it for the extra 1" of headroom, and the oh-so-glorious back to the basics appeal. A LSD was also available, but somewhat uncommon.
Listen for a whining noise from the motor while idleing/ reving; a little whine is normal but alot is a problem. This is generaly due to a bad water pump or rollers, or belts that are too tight; the first is obviously more expensive than the second.
Rear hatches can be prone to delaminate from the frame. It's pretty obvious, and it's not really the end of the world, but it's worth noteing.
02-24-2010, 07:16 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
