Jack stand mounting points... is this ok?
#1
Jack stand mounting points... is this ok?
I prob. should have posted before I did it but is this ok? I am having the wheels cleaned up and new mounting bolts installed some are a getting a bit of an orange tint.
Can someone verify these locations are ok? I need to have it up on stands for a week.
<img src="http://www.968s.com/images/jack/j1.JPG" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.968s.com/images/jack/j2.JPG" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.968s.com/images/jack/j3.JPG" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.968s.com/images/jack/j4.JPG" alt=" - " />
Can someone verify these locations are ok? I need to have it up on stands for a week.
<img src="http://www.968s.com/images/jack/j1.JPG" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.968s.com/images/jack/j2.JPG" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.968s.com/images/jack/j3.JPG" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.968s.com/images/jack/j4.JPG" alt=" - " />
#2
I have heard horror stories of using jack stands on locations other than the factory jack locations. There are I believe 6 of these. I would recommend using these locations to support the vehicle with jack stands. This is what I always use, don't want to crush anything, especially with the weight of these vehicles. They are noted in the manual, behind the front wheel, in front of the back wheel, and behind the back wheel.
#4
The problem I have with using jackstands on the factory jack locations is their shape. Jackstands have a U-shaped contact surface which really fvcks up the jack locations on the car. The best thing is to use a block of wood or rubber in between the stands and jack locations, but this requires lifting the car VERY high into the air. I hate lifting these cars and supporting them with jackstands...I almost refuse to do it anymore.
The 968 is even worse than the 944. It doesn't have a jacking point in the middle of each side, only the support points. This means you have to lift from one of the support locations and put a jackstand under the other, then lower the jack and find a compromise jacking point somewhere on the car to get jackstands under the other two supports. I HATE lifting these cars!
Eric, I think those points will be okay. You'll risk breaking something or giving yourself a heart attack if you mess with supporting the car anymore.
The 968 is even worse than the 944. It doesn't have a jacking point in the middle of each side, only the support points. This means you have to lift from one of the support locations and put a jackstand under the other, then lower the jack and find a compromise jacking point somewhere on the car to get jackstands under the other two supports. I HATE lifting these cars!
Eric, I think those points will be okay. You'll risk breaking something or giving yourself a heart attack if you mess with supporting the car anymore.
#5
I agree with G96. That's why I use European jack stands made of heavy gauge pipe that are flat on top. I put a hockey puck on top of that for extra protection of the undercarriage lift points.
I think the closest looking stands to these in the States are the kind with locking pins with the top removed.
I think the closest looking stands to these in the States are the kind with locking pins with the top removed.
#6
I am not sure about your locations, but there are valid areas where you can lift the car besides the 'factory' jack points. I work the tech line for our DE program, and often other jack points are used to hoist a 944 on a lift.
When I work on the back end of my car, I place jackstands on the round 'rods' (Axle ends?) that protrude into the wheel wells. That is a good, solid and safe location for jackstands.
HTH,
-Zoltan.
When I work on the back end of my car, I place jackstands on the round 'rods' (Axle ends?) that protrude into the wheel wells. That is a good, solid and safe location for jackstands.
HTH,
-Zoltan.
#7
Zoltan, are you talking about the torsion tube? I don't think you want to do that as I have read (maybe Porsche service manual?) you can bend that quite a bit easier than you would think.
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#10
Yup, that is them. Forget about what your mechanic told you.
The other caution is to avoid using the aluminum suspension components because you can nick the aluminum which will then promote a stress fracture at that point.
The other caution is to avoid using the aluminum suspension components because you can nick the aluminum which will then promote a stress fracture at that point.
#11
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Z-man:
<strong>I was told to use this location by my mechanic.
The tubes I speak of are parallel to the ground, and are located just infront of the rear wheels: are these the torsion tube ends?
-Z.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yep.
<strong>I was told to use this location by my mechanic.
The tubes I speak of are parallel to the ground, and are located just infront of the rear wheels: are these the torsion tube ends?
-Z.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yep.
#12
Regarding the ill fitting tops of US jack stands: I bought some hockey pucks and ground two depressions in each one with my bench grinder. These clear the 'wings' on the top of the jack stand and also hold the puck in place nicely.
#13
Torsion tubes are fine, the circled "factory" location up front (in illustration) is not. I could shoot many digital pics of the floor caving up fromn the car being supported there.
Ideally, in my experience, is the factory locations in the rear (which are also replaceable, should they bend), and the frame rails up front, as seen in the photo.
Ideally, in my experience, is the factory locations in the rear (which are also replaceable, should they bend), and the frame rails up front, as seen in the photo.