krazykarl

If the water pump is original definitely replace it, or if has more then 30k miles on it it would probably be a good idea while rebuilding the whole engine. If you take off the front belt covers and there is a guide plate between the loop of the timing belt you have an updated pump. www.allzim.com sells a full kit as well as pelicanparts.com, but in my searching I've found there isn't really a huge savings especially if the kit contains parts you don't need.

Joe Jackson

Just replace the waterpump if you don't when it's last been changed. I can see in your pictures that you have an updated pump with the larger roller and belt guard so you won't need an update kit. You'll want to replace all of the rollers for the belts while you are in there too.

krazykarl's sources for the seals are both good ones.

Given that you haven't unbolted the cylinder head yet, I would strongly advise not pulling it. Replace the oil cooler seals and do a full belt job and front reseal. It looks like your balance shaft housings are leaking too so do them while you are in there. If you are feeling really ambitious, tackle the oil pan gasket and swap rod bearings while you have it open. Replace the oil pickup seal too. It's a lot of extra work though just to fix a small oil leak. You might want to consider waiting until you've fixed the major issue of the coolant and oil mixing.

FabilichuS

Okay so u sugest not to open the head and check the gasket ?

U think I should replace all the oil seal stuff, waterpump and reseal the injetors and rollers then try it and see if it leaks more ?

Is this realy all I need for the oil seal repair ?


Or should I do this to just to be safe ?

Joe Jackson

Yes and yes, though that kit is missing the camshaft seals and camshaft housing gasket (if you wanted to do them too. I'd suggest including them).

Grandpa#3

Hi Fabilichus, I may have missed it, but what year is your car and where are you from? Do you know if the spare engine you have is the same year or had an antifreeze leak into the oil as the one in your car? Once there is an antifreeze mixture in the oil system you have to clean everything in the engine and flush the radiator several times not to mention all hoses. If not it is the one to overhaul as the work will go faster and much easier to work on. Put it up on an engine stand. The bell housing has to be removed as well as the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. If you replace the clutch be sure to have the flywheel resurfaced and balance with the pressure plate. Replace the Rear Main Seal apply lube and make sure the seal is recessed into the block. It does not set flush. Once you pull the oil pan off check the oil pick up tube for any cracks. You can remove it to be cleaned. Most times the Main Crank Shaft Bearings do not have to be changed. Change out the Rod Shaft Bearings and replace all nuts and bolts. Send off the Fuel Injectors to be refurbished and flow tested. When you replace the oil pan gasket use Dental Floss to tie the gasket to the pan as it keeps the gasket in place. Once all pan bolts have been replaced finger tight, cut the Dental Floss and pull it out. DO NOT apply complete torque to each bolt until you have snugged them all up several times moving around the pan. Torque the bolts in the proper order all the way around the pan. This applies to all Head Bolts as well as Cam Housing Bolts. With the Head removed you can check the cylinder walls for nicks or scored areas. Run your finger nail around inside. If they don't catch on anything you are good to go. DO NOT remove the carbon build up from the top inner edge of the cylinder wall as this helps seal the Head Gasket. Are you going to send the Head off to be resurfaced, valve guides installed, and valves ground? If you pull the Oil Cooler to replace seals you need the alignment tool for the Oil Pressure Relief Valve so it does not bind when installed. Best information can be found at clarks garage. com.
Happy wrenching and good luck to you. If you need help just ask.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm

Cheers,
Larry

FabilichuS

So this set and the oil seal kit and im ready to go ?


Its realy hard to figure out what to do when im not that skilled :/ But Im gonna follow good advice and make this work

I forgot to tell you all how I think the water in oil leak started, my car was stranded at my moms house for 2-3 weeks cuz of 1 meter of snow. And when I went to get it the coolant didnt have the right mixture for the cold. I fould slush in the hoses, i got it all unfrosen again and the car was running ok. Then 3-4 days after that the car started drinking coolant faster than i can chug a beer. So I think something expanded and "broke" so that coolant and oil mixed.
The oil sweet and leak has been ther since I got the car tho.

FabilichuS

Hi Larry, im from Norway, Bergen and got a 1983 944. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3159782
So I have to clean the inside realy good since the coolant leak and send the injectors to a shop ?
The spare engine was in good shape before I got it I think. It had 145.000km on it, the one in the car have 165.000km. Im reading alot from clarks and haynes. Now Im just trying to find out what is the best way to go and get it right the first time. Think Il get the spare engine and go over that, and take photos of it so you ppl can see if it looks better.

Before I had the coolant leak and clutch break 1 year ago, the engine was running great. So if its not ot HARD to get all the wateroilgore out I think il stick with the one in the car, but prob gonna pull it out so I can do it right.

Joe Jackson

There is so much that could have gone wrong that it's impossible to point you in any direction. You could have a cracked block or perhaps your oil cooler burst. For your sake, I hope it was the latter.

FabilichuS

So would u say its best to tear it all down then ? And then shop parts as I go and find faults ?
I realy hope its only seal ! But I got two engines so I hope il get one up and running like new.
Think Il get tools this week, so I can procede to tear it down and find out more.

Grandpa#3

Hi, Your English is great. They must teach it in your schools. When I was stationed in Germany I used to fly into Kristiasand and Oslo quiet a bit. Loved the countryside and the people. I looked at your link and read through it. That explains why there is so much corrosion on the engine parts like the fuel rail for the injectors. I don't know where in Norway you could send them to be cleaned properly. They need to be flushed from both sides, new seals and hats. On the engine, anything that has white deposits needs to be cleaned off as that is corrosion and eats the metal. Use a brass brush on the aluminum parts. They sell a product here called Seafoam to put in the oil (use cheap oil) and run the engine for a while and drain the oil and do this a few times to clean out the engine oil passages. As for the water passages you can put in a little dish soap run the engine until the thermostat cycles a couple of times, drain and do this a couple of times. Flush the system and refill with proper antifreeze mixture. You will have the radiator hoses off so you can run a soapy rag back and forth inside and flush with water to clean them. I hope your garage is heated to work inside.

Cheers,
Larry

FabilichuS

Thx for the comments. My English was not great in school I only had a C grade :P But I use the internet alot and try to learn about all kind of stuff. So I pick up alittle now and then.
I don't have a heated garage but got good clothes Gonna send the fuelrail with injectors to my local Porsche dealer and see what he can do (if its not to expensive). About the other parts, if Im gonna replace all kinds of seals I could just *** well clean the inside with a brass brush ?
And flush all hoses with some sort of oil cleener ?

FabilichuS

So I got an estimate on what a local Porsche shop would take. $3100++ to do the head gasket, plane the head, change oil and coolant. And do the waterpump and some other smallstuff.
So Im gonna do this myself, to save alot of hours cash work :P
Well of to work...

FabilichuS

I went back to my old apartment to check on what was on the spare engine, and it looked pretty ok with fuelrail and injectros ther. So im problay gonna send all 8 injectors inn to see what shape they are in. Hope I can get the spare parts out her tomorrow....
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Also placed an order for some tools So I can get cracking on my car again

http://www.edwin.se/916650.html


http://www.arnnworx.com/maxi_kit.htm

M758

yes you do!. Believe me DO THE ROD BEARINGS. Really it is best to do the rods and mains and completly pull the engine. Doing rings is optional, but a good idea.

ChazTech

lindsey racing has rebuild kits, theyll save u a ton of money