ok. spring plate off....but umm
#16
Race Car
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The entire surface of the T-bar should be covered in grease. Certainly both ends but the entire t-bar. This discourages corrosion. If the bare metal of the bar is exposed it wil start to rust there and cause a stress fracture in the bar. Usually the bars are covered from the factory. But repeat this upon reassembly. As for the problem at hand, heat and pressure. Good luck.
#17
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The entire surface of the T-bar should be covered in grease. Certainly both ends but the entire t-bar. This discourages corrosion. If the bare metal of the bar is exposed it wil start to rust there and cause a stress fracture in the bar. Usually the bars are covered from the factory. But repeat this upon reassembly. As for the problem at hand, heat and pressure. Good luck.
#18
Drifting
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yea bar itself is painted. looks factory. the other end is just bare metal. little bits of crud/dirt, no real rust though.
is the cap what's holding the torsion bar from sliding all the way thru the spring plate? wondered if i could just cut the cap off and maybe expose the splines to get some penetrating oil or something in.
is the cap what's holding the torsion bar from sliding all the way thru the spring plate? wondered if i could just cut the cap off and maybe expose the splines to get some penetrating oil or something in.
#19
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You can try the drill and tap method of adding something to grab onto. Drill a hole in the center of the t-bar that's sticking out, tap it, and thread in a eye ring or something to get a slide-hammer on.
#20
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If you have the tbar and spring plate out (and fused together) you could drill a hold in the end cap of the spring plate and thread something INTO the end plate to force the tbar out. Or just drill a big enough hole to pound a rod into the head of the tbar.
#21
Drifting
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yea that's waht i was trying to do. i punched thru the cap and now i got a hole about 1/4" diameter. i tried sledging on a bolt thru but nothing moved. i'll have to see about threading a bolt in.
#22
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IF you hold the bar in a vice and beat on the spring plate it will come aff the end of the bar.If you hole the cap when you put it back together again you will have to block the hole or all your grease will get contaminated with general crap off the road.
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You can seal it with RTV or even a bolt. Not like it's a pressurized area.
#25
Drifting
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WOOOHOOOO!!! it's off!!
although from the beating, the spring plate's "tube" isn't fully around at the tip anymore. it's oblong by 1mm or so. the splines of the tbar cut a set of mini grooves coming out. that's not a problem right? already test fitted new bar in. as long as the splines line up with the grooves it goes in just dandy.
although from the beating, the spring plate's "tube" isn't fully around at the tip anymore. it's oblong by 1mm or so. the splines of the tbar cut a set of mini grooves coming out. that's not a problem right? already test fitted new bar in. as long as the splines line up with the grooves it goes in just dandy.
#28
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That explains everything. Congrats.
Too late now, but I had another idea. Once you had the end of the spring plate drilled, you could have dumped a load of Liquid Wrench in there.
And finally, the McGiver solution. Pour gunpowder into the hole, stick in a fuse and blow the mf'er out!
Too late now, but I had another idea. Once you had the end of the spring plate drilled, you could have dumped a load of Liquid Wrench in there.
And finally, the McGiver solution. Pour gunpowder into the hole, stick in a fuse and blow the mf'er out!
#29
Drifting
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i actually did on the other one. it was even more stuck on than this one! if there ever was an invention that dissolves iron oxide, but not harm steel....the billions u could make