Information about V8 944's
01-05-2010, 07:41 PM
#31
Version 1 with the strut spacers is the simple fix and YES it does raise the body, but the spring travel remains the same and no need for bump steer bolts on the spindles. Version 2 has modded RX7 arms that relocate the Early ball joints up 1" as the X-menber is dropped 1" and a bump-steer bolt that drops the tie-rods 1" for that correction.....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-arms-pic.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-arms-pic.html
01-05-2010, 08:14 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
One thing I found out when I got my car tuned was the tach is reading about 6-700 RPMs high. When the tach read 6200, the car was only at about 5600. The guy in the car cut it off at redline and the guy at the computer was like WTF? So the rest of the runs were revved until the engine cutoff hit. I'd like to figure out how to get that better calibrated.
I'm also running the stock GM PS pump with the Porsche rack. I'd like to switch to the Porsche PS pump once you guys get the bracket ready. I think I'm having heat related issues with the GM pump. (I get sticky steering on tight left turns but only after having driven for more than a half hour or so. Never does it when cold or immediately after warming up. I really need to track down the exact cause.)
Also, my AC works but I only used it twice this summer because I'd rather have the windows down to hear the engine. Sweat washes off.
I'm also running the stock GM PS pump with the Porsche rack. I'd like to switch to the Porsche PS pump once you guys get the bracket ready. I think I'm having heat related issues with the GM pump. (I get sticky steering on tight left turns but only after having driven for more than a half hour or so. Never does it when cold or immediately after warming up. I really need to track down the exact cause.)
Also, my AC works but I only used it twice this summer because I'd rather have the windows down to hear the engine. Sweat washes off.
01-05-2010, 09:33 PM
#33
Modian,
The stock GM pump has too much volume for the Porsche rack; I think 15 gpm. The Turn One pump reduces the volume to around 12 gpm. The problem with the stock pump is that with the high volume the fluid heats up and the pump starts cavitating and the steering gets sticky. By reducing the volume the fluid stays at an acceptable temp and steering stays consistent. You can run a factory F-body cooler with the stock pump and it will be better but if your pump is starting to stick it probably has some seal damage starting. I have not tried the Porsche pump with the LS conversion but it should be a good as long as you run the factory loop cooler with it. The other option and I think better one is to run a Turn One Pump with a factory F-body cooler: this would be the best option for track use. The f-body cooler is not necessary but would give better thermal protection and has worked excellent for me.
Good luck!
The stock GM pump has too much volume for the Porsche rack; I think 15 gpm. The Turn One pump reduces the volume to around 12 gpm. The problem with the stock pump is that with the high volume the fluid heats up and the pump starts cavitating and the steering gets sticky. By reducing the volume the fluid stays at an acceptable temp and steering stays consistent. You can run a factory F-body cooler with the stock pump and it will be better but if your pump is starting to stick it probably has some seal damage starting. I have not tried the Porsche pump with the LS conversion but it should be a good as long as you run the factory loop cooler with it. The other option and I think better one is to run a Turn One Pump with a factory F-body cooler: this would be the best option for track use. The f-body cooler is not necessary but would give better thermal protection and has worked excellent for me.
Good luck!
01-06-2010, 12:11 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
Modian,
The stock GM pump has too much volume for the Porsche rack; I think 15 gpm. The Turn One pump reduces the volume to around 12 gpm. The problem with the stock pump is that with the high volume the fluid heats up and the pump starts cavitating and the steering gets sticky. By reducing the volume the fluid stays at an acceptable temp and steering stays consistent. You can run a factory F-body cooler with the stock pump and it will be better but if your pump is starting to stick it probably has some seal damage starting. I have not tried the Porsche pump with the LS conversion but it should be a good as long as you run the factory loop cooler with it. The other option and I think better one is to run a Turn One Pump with a factory F-body cooler: this would be the best option for track use. The f-body cooler is not necessary but would give better thermal protection and has worked excellent for me.
Good luck!
The stock GM pump has too much volume for the Porsche rack; I think 15 gpm. The Turn One pump reduces the volume to around 12 gpm. The problem with the stock pump is that with the high volume the fluid heats up and the pump starts cavitating and the steering gets sticky. By reducing the volume the fluid stays at an acceptable temp and steering stays consistent. You can run a factory F-body cooler with the stock pump and it will be better but if your pump is starting to stick it probably has some seal damage starting. I have not tried the Porsche pump with the LS conversion but it should be a good as long as you run the factory loop cooler with it. The other option and I think better one is to run a Turn One Pump with a factory F-body cooler: this would be the best option for track use. The f-body cooler is not necessary but would give better thermal protection and has worked excellent for me.
Good luck!
I've been waiting to see how xschop comes along with the Porsche PS pump pulley and bracket before deciding between it and a Turn One pump. $300 for a Turn One pump versus $? for a Porsche pump, pulley and adapter bracket. Maybe I'll just order the Turn One this week so I can fix this. It's the last thing I need to resolve on this car besides aftermarket control arms. Otherwise, it's purring like a kitten. Oh man, is it a blast to drive.
01-06-2010, 07:52 AM
#37
I'll post here so it is clear and comes from the horse's mouth. The bracket and 944 PS Pump Conversion Pulley I designed sets the inexpensive TRUCK ALTERNATOR on upper driver's side and 944 PS pump lower driver's side with the correct pulley conversion ratio and uses the TRUCK CRANK PULLEY.
If you want to run a GM AC compressor on the lower passenger, the TRUCK CRANK PULLEY and AC compressor will clear the motor mounts and engine plates.
With the F-body CRANK PULLEY, I can make an ALTERNATOR bracket and set back pulley for the PS pump as well ( the stock F-Body alt. bracket has to be milled at the back)..... the Vette Crank pulley is the unknown at this time.
If you want to run a GM AC compressor on the lower passenger, the TRUCK CRANK PULLEY and AC compressor will clear the motor mounts and engine plates.
With the F-body CRANK PULLEY, I can make an ALTERNATOR bracket and set back pulley for the PS pump as well ( the stock F-Body alt. bracket has to be milled at the back)..... the Vette Crank pulley is the unknown at this time.
01-06-2010, 01:53 PM
#38
Three Wheelin'
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I think the fine points of the conversion are best take up where they belong on http://944hybrids.forumotion.com/forum.htm.
My quick take on both control arms and power steering:
If it is a track car do the necessary fab so the cross member does not need lowered, and of course get some track ready ball joints installed with a longer pin that takes away the interference problem. Of course aftermarket arms do away with most of the ball joint interference problems.
If you want to run the GM pump against the Porsche rack street car it is generally fine. Track car or well performing street car there are several options. Using the Porsche pump would be ideal from a plumbing standpoint. The other options I like that have been brought up are to get the GM pump modified.
What I have been doing for years, is using the valve assembly for the GM pump that is normally used when pairing a GM pump and a Mustang II type power rack and pinion. That typically reduces the flow by about 1/3 Several people have that valve for around $30 list price. If you got some basic machining and mechanical abilities you can also mod the valve yourself as well. That is pretty well documented.
My quick take on both control arms and power steering:
If it is a track car do the necessary fab so the cross member does not need lowered, and of course get some track ready ball joints installed with a longer pin that takes away the interference problem. Of course aftermarket arms do away with most of the ball joint interference problems.
If you want to run the GM pump against the Porsche rack street car it is generally fine. Track car or well performing street car there are several options. Using the Porsche pump would be ideal from a plumbing standpoint. The other options I like that have been brought up are to get the GM pump modified.
What I have been doing for years, is using the valve assembly for the GM pump that is normally used when pairing a GM pump and a Mustang II type power rack and pinion. That typically reduces the flow by about 1/3 Several people have that valve for around $30 list price. If you got some basic machining and mechanical abilities you can also mod the valve yourself as well. That is pretty well documented.
01-06-2010, 07:36 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
I'll post here so it is clear and comes from the horse's mouth. The bracket and 944 PS Pump Conversion Pulley I designed sets the inexpensive TRUCK ALTERNATOR on upper driver's side and 944 PS pump lower driver's side with the correct pulley conversion ratio and uses the TRUCK CRANK PULLEY.
If you want to run a GM AC compressor on the lower passenger, the TRUCK CRANK PULLEY and AC compressor will clear the motor mounts and engine plates.
With the F-body CRANK PULLEY, I can make an ALTERNATOR bracket and set back pulley for the PS pump as well ( the stock F-Body alt. bracket has to be milled at the back)..... the Vette Crank pulley is the unknown at this time.
If you want to run a GM AC compressor on the lower passenger, the TRUCK CRANK PULLEY and AC compressor will clear the motor mounts and engine plates.
With the F-body CRANK PULLEY, I can make an ALTERNATOR bracket and set back pulley for the PS pump as well ( the stock F-Body alt. bracket has to be milled at the back)..... the Vette Crank pulley is the unknown at this time.
(It was a bit spread around on 944hybrids.) I knew it relocated the alternator but didn't realize the bracket was for use with the truck crank pulley.
Originally Posted by 944V8inDFW
What I have been doing for years, is using the valve assembly for the GM pump that is normally used when pairing a GM pump and a Mustang II type power rack and pinion. That typically reduces the flow by about 1/3 Several people have that valve for around $30 list price..
01-06-2010, 09:51 PM
#40
Can also be used for the F-body crank pulley also. The Vette pulley offset I'm not 100% sure of. I am still looking for an off-the-shelf 6-groove pulley that I can modify to put on the 944 PS pump shaft and make offset adapters for the truck, F-body, and Vette cranks.
