j-t

Ok, so made a mount with a head that has a 8mm hole that was bolted onto the alubars, with custom washers on both sides made to fit the slot in the bar, and a locknut in the other end.
Made new mounts that are exact the same as the stock ones but with a much shorter M8 pin in the other end.
These 2 will be attached by a uniball.
I kept the stock rubber on the sway bar, that together with the uniball will allow for the same movement as the stock setup has.

So, problem solved just waiting for the uniballs to arrive.
Thank you all for your ideas and feedback!






While I was at it I also made a reinforce bracket for the sway bar mount to the chassie, seen these as an upgrade part on the web but was easy enough to make them yourself.

Luis de Prat

I agree with Oddjob in that the stock design is the most effective. The fabrication you need to out-engineer Porsche on this is risky at best. Good luck with it though!

j-t

I mostly agree with you, but what Porsche did for the stock 968 was to build a streetcar and these are always a compromise since you want handling, comfort and reliability. Same goes for engine tuning, they can put out a lot more hp of these but thats always at the expense of something else, usually reliability. The difference is that the front is now fully adjustable and stiff as hell, like you want on a track car, and I don´t have the torsion bar to put up with which is a construction I do not like at all. But since I have both stock and these uprated bits then it does not cost anything, besides my time, to try it out.

My old car is a Skyline R32 GT-R tuned to about 550 hp with uprated suspension,
brakes, etc etc and that is not a very reliable car to use as a daily beater anymore but well maintained it is a reliable track, and occasional street, car. My Porsche will be a track only car but it will be street legal for now to make transportation to and from the tracks easier, need to get a license to hall a trailer with the car on :/
So basically I can go all the way with this one... and I will.

jtsporsche

well said in my opinion

xschop

Again, you need a heim joint....M10x1.5 female will mate to the fully threaded bushing link

j-t

That is correct, though I made new ones with M8x1,25 instead

j-t

Tx

mikey_audiogeek

THK Link ***** - good product for this app.

http://www.thk.com/eng/products/clas...all/index.html

Mike

mikey_audiogeek

Ford do it on the 2005 Mustang.

Here's a pic, complete with THK link ***** (not standard).

We use THK link ***** at work, in far more severe environments than auto use.

Attachment 412214

j-t

Interesting product, thanks for the tip