cup clutch install - your mistakes?
08-26-2002, 01:17 AM
#1
Racer
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cup clutch install - your mistakes?
I'll be installing a cup clutch in my 951 this week. Since I'm a big believer in learning from mistakes, I was wondering if anyone who's done this, sucessfully or not, could give me warnings, tips or tricks. Let me thank you all in advance!
08-26-2002, 01:46 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
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Doing a Cup Clutch is no different than doing a stocker. I'll try my best to give you the go thru.
From the top of the engine:
Disconnect the ground from the battery.
You will need to remove the ground lead going to the bell housing.
Remove the two reference senders from the cradle above the bell housing, you do not need to remove the cradle, just the sensors. If you remove the cradle, be prepaird to re gap the sensors. This is no fun with the engine in the car.
In the car:
Remove the shifter boot. THe remove the snap ring from the shift rod holding it to the long linkage.take the shifter rod out, its held by two 13mm bolts. This will allow you to slide the lionkage rod foprward out of the transaxle.
Under the car:
Remove the two axles from the rear trailing arms and transaxle. This is done with I believe a 6mm 12point.
YOu need to locate on the drivers side of the tranny a 13mm bolt hoilding the linkage rod to the linkage on the tranny. Remove this, it may have a safety wire thru it.
Now slide the linklage rod forward as far as possible.
Push the plastick rod gaurd from thetranny thru the bellhousing.
Now remove the two rubber plugs in the rear bellhousing assembly, one is rectangular, the other is round. With an extension and a 8mm allen socket remove the two bolts holdint the clamp on the drive shaft. To do this, easier, put the car in fifth gear and you can rotate the assembly by pushing on the tires to get the bolts to line up with the windows.Push the clamp to the tranny side of the drive shaft.
Remove the sensor from the tranny.
Remove the four bolts holding the rear "bellhousing" to the tranny.
Remove the two 13mm bolts found at the tranny mount, they are removed from the passenger side, no need to look for the nut on the bolts as they are locked into the tranny on the drivers side.
Be carefull with this step, the tranny will fall out when you remove both the bolts!
Next remove the starter and clutch slave cyinder, the starter is held in place with two 19mm bolts, easy access, you will need a 13mm and an 8mm wrench to remove the wires from the starter. Use a 13mm wrench to remove the clutch slave and just push it aside.
Remove your crossover if its a one piece...oh god help me type this out...or rather call me in this case ok? If its a two piece your better off. Remove your exhaust from the header collection back.
Now, remove the four 17mm bolts holding the torque tube to the front bellhousing on the engine. This is done very easily if you get a long extension with a U swivel.
Remove all the clamps holding various wires to the drivers side of the bellhousing.
Remove the heatshield above the cat section of the exhaust, this will make it easy to get at the top bolts on the bellhopusing. Believe me, it will.
Remove the heatshield by the starter.
With a ten mm wrench and ratchet, remove the safety lock bolt on the clutch pin located on the rear of the bellhousing on the downside. THen using a long 13mm bolt with an 8.125 thread, thread this into the pin and use a hammer and vice grip combo to get the pin out.
Now using a long (24" at least) extension and a U joint with a 19mm socket your ready to get at the four bolts holding the bellhousing. YOu'll see what I mean about the heatshield now, it allows you to get a better angle on the bolts :-)
I believ at this point you have the bellhousing loose, and will now get to the clutch assembly. Assemble the new clutch as you see the old assembly, and reverse the directions for instalation.
One note, its easier to get the drive shaft into the assembly if you mount the bellhousing, and slave cylinder, then have someone push the clutch in, this lets the drive shaft slide right in.
I hope this is not too abbreviated, I'm hungry and I need to walk my dogs...
Take Care!
From the top of the engine:
Disconnect the ground from the battery.
You will need to remove the ground lead going to the bell housing.
Remove the two reference senders from the cradle above the bell housing, you do not need to remove the cradle, just the sensors. If you remove the cradle, be prepaird to re gap the sensors. This is no fun with the engine in the car.
In the car:
Remove the shifter boot. THe remove the snap ring from the shift rod holding it to the long linkage.take the shifter rod out, its held by two 13mm bolts. This will allow you to slide the lionkage rod foprward out of the transaxle.
Under the car:
Remove the two axles from the rear trailing arms and transaxle. This is done with I believe a 6mm 12point.
YOu need to locate on the drivers side of the tranny a 13mm bolt hoilding the linkage rod to the linkage on the tranny. Remove this, it may have a safety wire thru it.
Now slide the linklage rod forward as far as possible.
Push the plastick rod gaurd from thetranny thru the bellhousing.
Now remove the two rubber plugs in the rear bellhousing assembly, one is rectangular, the other is round. With an extension and a 8mm allen socket remove the two bolts holdint the clamp on the drive shaft. To do this, easier, put the car in fifth gear and you can rotate the assembly by pushing on the tires to get the bolts to line up with the windows.Push the clamp to the tranny side of the drive shaft.
Remove the sensor from the tranny.
Remove the four bolts holding the rear "bellhousing" to the tranny.
Remove the two 13mm bolts found at the tranny mount, they are removed from the passenger side, no need to look for the nut on the bolts as they are locked into the tranny on the drivers side.
Be carefull with this step, the tranny will fall out when you remove both the bolts!
Next remove the starter and clutch slave cyinder, the starter is held in place with two 19mm bolts, easy access, you will need a 13mm and an 8mm wrench to remove the wires from the starter. Use a 13mm wrench to remove the clutch slave and just push it aside.
Remove your crossover if its a one piece...oh god help me type this out...or rather call me in this case ok? If its a two piece your better off. Remove your exhaust from the header collection back.
Now, remove the four 17mm bolts holding the torque tube to the front bellhousing on the engine. This is done very easily if you get a long extension with a U swivel.
Remove all the clamps holding various wires to the drivers side of the bellhousing.
Remove the heatshield above the cat section of the exhaust, this will make it easy to get at the top bolts on the bellhopusing. Believe me, it will.
Remove the heatshield by the starter.
With a ten mm wrench and ratchet, remove the safety lock bolt on the clutch pin located on the rear of the bellhousing on the downside. THen using a long 13mm bolt with an 8.125 thread, thread this into the pin and use a hammer and vice grip combo to get the pin out.
Now using a long (24" at least) extension and a U joint with a 19mm socket your ready to get at the four bolts holding the bellhousing. YOu'll see what I mean about the heatshield now, it allows you to get a better angle on the bolts :-)
I believ at this point you have the bellhousing loose, and will now get to the clutch assembly. Assemble the new clutch as you see the old assembly, and reverse the directions for instalation.
One note, its easier to get the drive shaft into the assembly if you mount the bellhousing, and slave cylinder, then have someone push the clutch in, this lets the drive shaft slide right in.
I hope this is not too abbreviated, I'm hungry and I need to walk my dogs...
Take Care!
08-26-2002, 03:04 PM
#5
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Hey ArcticCzar-
where in Kansas City are you located? Ever go to the PCA events? E-mail me, maybe we can hook up sometime-I'd love to get a look at your 951...
where in Kansas City are you located? Ever go to the PCA events? E-mail me, maybe we can hook up sometime-I'd love to get a look at your 951...
08-27-2002, 06:39 AM
#6
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Location: San Jose, Ca- now Orem, Ut
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the cup clutch is stiffer than the stock one at the peddle. I just checked the spring load on the helper spring and tightened it up a pinch. that was the only thing i had problems with. Also, resurface your flywheel and change the main seal in there too. that seal is only 15 bucks, i think and it saves a lot of time it you need a new one later!!!! good luck
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08-27-2002, 04:15 PM
#9
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Clark in Raytown is the one. I've stopped by and chatted with the guys there and they seem knowledgab;e enough, but have no reference to the quality of their work.
Mike
Mike