Bri Bro

Very good point and it would also resolve the question on the ignition switch. I gave a link to the DME relay that shows the jumpers in the post above. I wouldn't drive it long this way and you have to take out the jumpers after you shut off the car or it will drain the battery dry in a couple of hours.

One other point, buying the DME for $100 could save you a lot of time in the future. I have a spare DME and KLR and they come in very handy when troubleshooting a problem.

bdodd444

Went to the mechanic's and put the grounded wire on 85b, it started and then died. Then it wouldn't start at all. The tach bounced (I read that was significant somewhere), but wouldn't crank over after that first try. I forgot to bring my spare DME relay with me, so I am going to run by tomorrow and try that. Any ideas as a result of my test would be appreciated.

Oazix-If your DME will fit the 944, I would certainly pay you $100 for it. My wife works in DC, so she could meet you or I could throw in more for postage if it is easier to mail it. Shoot me an email when you have a chance to
bdodd444@yahoo.com

My inclination is to replace the DME and the ignition thing Grandpa mentioned and go from there. Again, I really appreciate the responses.

Brian

dhrmotorsports

I have a similar problem with my 2.7. It all of a sudden today, after driving to work this morning, when I started the car up this aft it while it idled down right away, Upon trying to release the clutch and accelerate, all it did was idle. I sat for a moment, and it started moving normally with a small buck or two, then it did that whole totally unresponsive throttle thing. Back and forth all the way home... I felt really lucky just to make it... I hope that you get your figured out, I may have to send mine in as while I can work on a 350 chev no sweat... this is a bit different...

peanut

your car cannot be losing 3 bars of fuel pressure instantly after starting up. The only way that could happen is if the pump suddenly turned off and the fuel pressure valve suddenly stuck wide open.

I suspect that your car is not getting enough fuel from the injectors and is simply starting from the initial squirt of fuel you get from the cold start injector when the engine is cold.

Your mechanic should have tested the fuel pressure at 2.5 or 3 bars whatever. He should then test how long it takes for the fuel pressure to drop by half (not less than 20 minutes)

This tests the fuel pump, the fuel pump non-return valve, the filter, the fuel damper , the fuel pressure regulator , and the fuel delivery pipes and rail .

Once you have established that you have fuel pressure and that it is being retained, the next step should be to check that the injectors work. Pull the fuel rail off with the injectors attached and place the injectors into 4x clear glass jars. Check the delivery of each injector when cranking ( remove coil lead obviously).

If this checks out I would make up a 3x way jump lead and remove the DME and plug the jumper into the DME holder sockets.This bypases and eliminates the DME .
When you turn the ignition on you listen carefully and you should hear the cold start injector valve activate and fuel rushing through the fuel rail andfFuel pressure regulator back to the fuel tank. Then crank it over and see if it starts.

The last thing I would expect to be faulty is the ECU . If it was faulty the engine would be very unlikely to fire and start at all.

I'm willing to bet the price of a new DME that it is your injectors sticking and giving your engine fuel starvation.

ps. your starter and battery must be capable of turning the engine over at a minimum of 200 rpm or the ECU shuts down the pump and injectors and spark

pps get rid of your grease monkey. he obviously knows nothing about Bosch L-jetronic fuel injection systems and thinks the answer is a quick service and bolt on some expensive new parts in the hope it will fire up.
A good mechanic will test components and wiring according to the manual and find the fault by a process of elimination