RE: Painting wheels
03-12-2003, 10:40 AM
#1
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RE: Painting wheels
I have two D-90 wheels that I intend to use for DE and autocrossing. (Still looking for another 2-4 wheels, but that's a different story!!)
So, I've got the following:
- Scotch brite to scuff up the current surface
- "Between coats" abrasvie pad to smooth out the surface between coats.
- a can of Rustoleum Primer
- a can of Rustoleum Metalic Black paint
- a can of Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel to finish it off.
I've cleaned the wheels as good as possible, with chemicals that are probably as strong as agent orange. Of course, since it's winter, I did this in my living room! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" /> (Imagine the look on my wife's face when she came into the room with a tarp, two wheels and a bunch of bottles of cleaner! But that's yet another different story!!) Currently, there's a set of crappy tires mounted on them. So now, the questions:
1. Should I unmount the wheels before painting, or it is better to keep the tires on, so I don't paint the area where the tire seals with the wheel?
2. Should I try to remove the valve stem so I can paint in and around that area of the wheel?
3. I plan on spraynig a light primer coat, letting it dry and sanding it. Repeat process. Do the same for the metallic paint, (3-4 coats) and then the same with the Chrystal Clear Enamel (3-4 coats as well). Will that work?
I know that eventually, the paint will chip. The wheels are scuffed up, so I thought painting them wouldn't hurt. But I figured if I do it right, I should be able to keep the paint from chipping longer.
Hopefully, when this is done, it won't look riced out! I'd hate for people to say, "Look at that Bling! Bling! Porsche" while I'm scooting around the track! hehe...
Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.
-Zoltan.
So, I've got the following:
- Scotch brite to scuff up the current surface
- "Between coats" abrasvie pad to smooth out the surface between coats.
- a can of Rustoleum Primer
- a can of Rustoleum Metalic Black paint
- a can of Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel to finish it off.
I've cleaned the wheels as good as possible, with chemicals that are probably as strong as agent orange. Of course, since it's winter, I did this in my living room! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" /> (Imagine the look on my wife's face when she came into the room with a tarp, two wheels and a bunch of bottles of cleaner! But that's yet another different story!!) Currently, there's a set of crappy tires mounted on them. So now, the questions:
1. Should I unmount the wheels before painting, or it is better to keep the tires on, so I don't paint the area where the tire seals with the wheel?
2. Should I try to remove the valve stem so I can paint in and around that area of the wheel?
3. I plan on spraynig a light primer coat, letting it dry and sanding it. Repeat process. Do the same for the metallic paint, (3-4 coats) and then the same with the Chrystal Clear Enamel (3-4 coats as well). Will that work?
I know that eventually, the paint will chip. The wheels are scuffed up, so I thought painting them wouldn't hurt. But I figured if I do it right, I should be able to keep the paint from chipping longer.
Hopefully, when this is done, it won't look riced out! I'd hate for people to say, "Look at that Bling! Bling! Porsche" while I'm scooting around the track! hehe...
Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.
-Zoltan.
03-12-2003, 11:06 AM
#2
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When I did mine, I just pulled the valve core out and completely deflated them. Then, While pressing down on the tire next to the rim, I slipped some masking tape between the rim and tire. After that, I used masking paper to mask off the tire and tape it to the ring of masking tape I previously described.
03-12-2003, 11:32 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys.
Ok, stupid question: I've seen how they demount tires: can I do this myself with simple home tools without destroying my wheels? If I have to cut my tires to get them off, it doesn't matter, since they are already toast.
But if I remove my tires, should I worry about painting where the tire and wheel seal? These wheels will be used for DE, so they will see high speeds often: I don't want to do something that would cause the chance of leaking.
Thanks,
-Z.
Ok, stupid question: I've seen how they demount tires: can I do this myself with simple home tools without destroying my wheels? If I have to cut my tires to get them off, it doesn't matter, since they are already toast.
But if I remove my tires, should I worry about painting where the tire and wheel seal? These wheels will be used for DE, so they will see high speeds often: I don't want to do something that would cause the chance of leaking.
Thanks,
-Z.
03-12-2003, 11:45 AM
#6
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I'll be watching this thread closely, because I am planning on doing the same to my "track" Phone Dials.
What is the best paint to use? What's the consensus... will the Rustoleum suffice, or should Wurth be used? Flat black, or low gloss black? Does it make any real difference?
What is the best paint to use? What's the consensus... will the Rustoleum suffice, or should Wurth be used? Flat black, or low gloss black? Does it make any real difference?
03-12-2003, 11:45 AM
#7
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Z-Man...
let me give you some valuable advice:
1. Take the inner valve out of the valve stem and let the tire deflate. then stand on corners of the tire and wedge large sheets of newspaper between the rim and the tire so you avoid getting over spray. once the newspaper is in place, re-inflate the tire to get the newspaper locked in there. DO NOT rip the paper out when you are done. you will have to deflate again and take it out. if you pull it out, the ripped piece that is stick between the tire and rim will cause an air leak.
2. Spray the light coat of primer and then sand the primer with 800 grit sandpaper. (scotch brite should work ok but i have never tried it)
3. spray your base coat making sure to get the whole area covered evenly. you only need about 2 coats of the base if you are going to use clear coat.
4. immediatley after spraying the base, take the wheel to an area that has a warm light and shine it right over the wheel. then spray your clear coat on HEAVILY, but dont let it get blotchy. its kinda hard to make clear coat run or come out uneven because when you spray it on a wet base, it blends pretty well..
some people say wait untill the base dries before using clear. i have done it this way with over 20 sets of wheels and it has came out FINE. the wet base allows the clear coat to soak into the base giving it MORE shine and more depth.
and for the valve stem. if it is black, then just mask it off with tape and if there is any over spray, it will be barely noticeable.
5. stand back and smile
take care,
SHAUN
let me give you some valuable advice:
1. Take the inner valve out of the valve stem and let the tire deflate. then stand on corners of the tire and wedge large sheets of newspaper between the rim and the tire so you avoid getting over spray. once the newspaper is in place, re-inflate the tire to get the newspaper locked in there. DO NOT rip the paper out when you are done. you will have to deflate again and take it out. if you pull it out, the ripped piece that is stick between the tire and rim will cause an air leak.
2. Spray the light coat of primer and then sand the primer with 800 grit sandpaper. (scotch brite should work ok but i have never tried it)
3. spray your base coat making sure to get the whole area covered evenly. you only need about 2 coats of the base if you are going to use clear coat.
4. immediatley after spraying the base, take the wheel to an area that has a warm light and shine it right over the wheel. then spray your clear coat on HEAVILY, but dont let it get blotchy. its kinda hard to make clear coat run or come out uneven because when you spray it on a wet base, it blends pretty well..
some people say wait untill the base dries before using clear. i have done it this way with over 20 sets of wheels and it has came out FINE. the wet base allows the clear coat to soak into the base giving it MORE shine and more depth.
and for the valve stem. if it is black, then just mask it off with tape and if there is any over spray, it will be barely noticeable.
5. stand back and smile
take care,
SHAUN
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03-12-2003, 11:51 AM
#8
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Here are some pics of when i was painting my fuchs, and the gloss that i got after painting my phone dials.. try what i said and i think you will be beyond satisfied.
<img src="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid54/p93962a800be338ae8d3bd6a9e63fbd78/fc83fa05.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid54/pd29c4785cd2a7ab80c7ca7cdcd107e43/fc83fa02.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid54/pbdadca36a6ab1e36681652bdc60d55e2/fc83fa00.jpg" alt=" - " />
SHAUN
<img src="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid54/p93962a800be338ae8d3bd6a9e63fbd78/fc83fa05.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid54/pd29c4785cd2a7ab80c7ca7cdcd107e43/fc83fa02.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid54/pbdadca36a6ab1e36681652bdc60d55e2/fc83fa00.jpg" alt=" - " />
SHAUN
03-12-2003, 12:29 PM
#10
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by mideastmafia:
<strong>Z-Man...
let me give you some valuable advice:
1. Take the inner valve out of the valve stem and let the tire deflate. then stand on corners of the tire and wedge large sheets of newspaper between the rim and the tire so you avoid getting over spray. once the newspaper is in place, re-inflate the tire to get the newspaper locked in there. DO NOT rip the paper out when you are done. you will have to deflate again and take it out. if you pull it out, the ripped piece that is stick between the tire and rim will cause an air leak. <snip>
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Shaun: do I need to do this if I don't care about the tires? IE: Should I be worried about over-spray getting on the inside of the wheel?
led: while paint remover will remove the paint, the purpose of using scotch bite is to scuff up the surface so the paint has something to bond to.
-Z.
<strong>Z-Man...
let me give you some valuable advice:
1. Take the inner valve out of the valve stem and let the tire deflate. then stand on corners of the tire and wedge large sheets of newspaper between the rim and the tire so you avoid getting over spray. once the newspaper is in place, re-inflate the tire to get the newspaper locked in there. DO NOT rip the paper out when you are done. you will have to deflate again and take it out. if you pull it out, the ripped piece that is stick between the tire and rim will cause an air leak. <snip>
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Shaun: do I need to do this if I don't care about the tires? IE: Should I be worried about over-spray getting on the inside of the wheel?
led: while paint remover will remove the paint, the purpose of using scotch bite is to scuff up the surface so the paint has something to bond to.
-Z.
03-12-2003, 01:20 PM
#11
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica"> Will paint remover work well for removing the old paint? I don't quite feel like (sanding the entire wheel) * 4
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I used paint stripper and steel wool on some aluminum 924 wheels that were painted black a while back and that worked great, only needed to clear coat them because the steel wool didnt scratch the aluminum. Just make sure to wear rubber gloves or the paint stripper will eat your hands.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I used paint stripper and steel wool on some aluminum 924 wheels that were painted black a while back and that worked great, only needed to clear coat them because the steel wool didnt scratch the aluminum. Just make sure to wear rubber gloves or the paint stripper will eat your hands.
03-12-2003, 01:39 PM
#12
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MidEastMafia... </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica"> Here are some pics of when i was painting my fuchs, </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">A little hard for me to tell, but it looks like you have masked off the inner portion of each of the spokes. Is that right? Did you strip/polish that area first? If so, that is what I have in mind to try also. How about posting a finished photo.... <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />
One other comment about painting wheels and then having the tires mounted. I wouldn't be too concerned about getting paint on the bead (and thereby causing a leak) - I don't think that will be a problem. I would be worried though that the guys who mount the tires would mark up my new finish, especially if I had painted the rim (right near the bead). The mounting machines rub that area pretty hard. Just a thought...Bruce
One other comment about painting wheels and then having the tires mounted. I wouldn't be too concerned about getting paint on the bead (and thereby causing a leak) - I don't think that will be a problem. I would be worried though that the guys who mount the tires would mark up my new finish, especially if I had painted the rim (right near the bead). The mounting machines rub that area pretty hard. Just a thought...Bruce
03-12-2003, 02:04 PM
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SHAUN,
I also would like to see some finished photos of the Fuchs. I am guessing that you painted the entire wheel and eliminated the polished lip? Mine are pretty tired and may be in for a DIY freshening.
I also would like to see some finished photos of the Fuchs. I am guessing that you painted the entire wheel and eliminated the polished lip? Mine are pretty tired and may be in for a DIY freshening.
03-12-2003, 03:29 PM
#14
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just to add my two cents worth...
i've painted several sets of wheels with varying results. i think the most durable without clear coating is the high temp paint - leaves a nice smooth finish that is pretty durable. you could also get high temp clear coat.
all of my wheels were painted with the tires off for ease of manipulation, but i don't think it makes much difference. you could also use 240 grit sandpaper to scuff the surface of the wheels - that's what i have used.
i didn't find it necessary to sand the primer, although it certainly helps. all the rough spots will be sanded out with the paint anyways.
good luck and have fun. i think black is a cool color, especially for design 90 wheels.
i've painted several sets of wheels with varying results. i think the most durable without clear coating is the high temp paint - leaves a nice smooth finish that is pretty durable. you could also get high temp clear coat.
all of my wheels were painted with the tires off for ease of manipulation, but i don't think it makes much difference. you could also use 240 grit sandpaper to scuff the surface of the wheels - that's what i have used.
i didn't find it necessary to sand the primer, although it certainly helps. all the rough spots will be sanded out with the paint anyways.
good luck and have fun. i think black is a cool color, especially for design 90 wheels.
03-12-2003, 04:22 PM
#15
Three Wheelin'
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Just make sure to wear rubber gloves or the paint stripper will eat your hands.[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">yeah, I know how harsh it is, thanx!