I think I ruined my slave cylinder
#1
I think I ruined my slave cylinder
I was trying to push the rod/ piston back in today, and I made a small hole in the rubber seal thing
Can I apply some kind of sealant (it's a small hole), or is the pressure too high? Does anywhere sell just the seal, or am I going to have a to drop $45 to replace a slave cylinder with zero miles?
Can I apply some kind of sealant (it's a small hole), or is the pressure too high? Does anywhere sell just the seal, or am I going to have a to drop $45 to replace a slave cylinder with zero miles?
#3
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Ams, NL
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It is probably the dust cover you hit.
The hydraulic seals are inside and can only be damaged when you have the cylinder disassembled.
Best is to replace it (cover only), mastic or sealent wont work for long and if you leave as is, dirt will get in and damage the cylinder wall.
Try and get a cover from a dismantler.
TakeCare
The hydraulic seals are inside and can only be damaged when you have the cylinder disassembled.
Best is to replace it (cover only), mastic or sealent wont work for long and if you leave as is, dirt will get in and damage the cylinder wall.
Try and get a cover from a dismantler.
TakeCare
#5
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Louisville, KY.
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Well, I believe it had a small vent hole anyway, because it has to breathe as the piston moves in and out. I personally don't see why a dab of silicone sealer wouldn't fix it up, provided its a puncture and not a tear.
#6
It's just slightly bigger than a pin *****, and it's on the rubber boot thing that covers the rod. I'll give it the silicon treatment, and test it out plenty before I hit the open road.
I would just opt for ANOTHER new slave cylinder, but cash funds are dry and I'm only 17. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that nothing else breaks for a while (a while being a few months )
I would just opt for ANOTHER new slave cylinder, but cash funds are dry and I'm only 17. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that nothing else breaks for a while (a while being a few months )
#7
I'm 19, and I saved up for over three years to buy my car when i was 16. I just spent over $6000 on basicly a new engine, clutch, A/C, fuel system. and I'm a college student at two different colleges taking a double course load, so I know all about being poor.
I would try some of the used porsche parts places, <a href="http://www.pap-parts.com/store/home.asp" target="_blank">German Auto Parts</a>, <a href="http://www.partsheaven.com/" target="_blank">Parts Heaven</a>, or ebay.
I just saying be careful with the your brakes. Brakes are the one part of the car you don't want to F8$k up.
I would try some of the used porsche parts places, <a href="http://www.pap-parts.com/store/home.asp" target="_blank">German Auto Parts</a>, <a href="http://www.partsheaven.com/" target="_blank">Parts Heaven</a>, or ebay.
I just saying be careful with the your brakes. Brakes are the one part of the car you don't want to F8$k up.
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#8
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The part you are describing is a boot designed to keep dirt and other abrasive garbage off of the walls of the slave cylinder by seating on the slave cylinder itself and the actuating rod. It should be ok with a dab of some type of sealant. You are most likely ok so long as the slave cylinder itself didn't get "disassembled" from someone pressing on the pedal with the cylinder dismounted. The result from that is that the piston would be driven from the cylinder, likely scoring the seals on the piston (not fixable, new slave cylinder time).
The clutch master & slave cylinders are connected to the brakes only in the sense that they do draw off of the same resevior. Look at the resevior and you should see that the supply line to the clutch master is above the level of where the brakes would fail by intaking air into the system because of low fluid levels. If the clutch were to develop a leak for some reason, the brakes wouldn't go at the same time because the fluid would only leak down to the level of the clutch intake, still leaving fluid for the brakes. The result would be only that you couldn't depress the clutch. Not a good situation but a bit of a safety feature in the design of a system having one resevior feeding two systems.
The clutch master & slave cylinders are connected to the brakes only in the sense that they do draw off of the same resevior. Look at the resevior and you should see that the supply line to the clutch master is above the level of where the brakes would fail by intaking air into the system because of low fluid levels. If the clutch were to develop a leak for some reason, the brakes wouldn't go at the same time because the fluid would only leak down to the level of the clutch intake, still leaving fluid for the brakes. The result would be only that you couldn't depress the clutch. Not a good situation but a bit of a safety feature in the design of a system having one resevior feeding two systems.
#9
I think it *might* have gotten pushed out by the clutch pedal, is there any way to check? Or should I just be safe and get a new one ?
Damn, and I had just saved up money for some new shoes <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />
Damn, and I had just saved up money for some new shoes <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />
#10
Nordschleife Master
I think you are OK. Just clean and dab on some silicone to seal the puncture and see how things go. I would be more worried about how you managed to put a hole in the boot and if that injured the piston seal.
#11
Well, it's in the top part of the boot, and that was partially out of frustration...maybe I should have stopped for the night...
Anywho, I'm getting back the Torpedo heater tommorow, so I should be done up to the point of rebleeding the clutch. Just have to wait for the Motive and ATE, then I'm back on the road...finally.
Anywho, I'm getting back the Torpedo heater tommorow, so I should be done up to the point of rebleeding the clutch. Just have to wait for the Motive and ATE, then I'm back on the road...finally.