Need scale and inputs
10-28-2009, 07:01 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Need scale and inputs
Seeing the 3 piece cross member had me thinking...
So as I played on SolidWorks today can you guess what this is...????
I have no scale to reference only 2 d drawing off Paragon, Pelican and Clarks, with out dims...
Planned to make cuts as shown salvaging parts from OEM part.
Purple collar, simple lathe & drill & tap part for re..assembly.
Have no idea if it can be an "innie" as shown or an "Outie" over the exterior.
Spline cuts and 2 couplers required for gray shaft to drop out...
More later I got dinner waiting and now probably a PO's sig other.......
So as I played on SolidWorks today can you guess what this is...????
I have no scale to reference only 2 d drawing off Paragon, Pelican and Clarks, with out dims...
Planned to make cuts as shown salvaging parts from OEM part.
Purple collar, simple lathe & drill & tap part for re..assembly.
Have no idea if it can be an "innie" as shown or an "Outie" over the exterior.
Spline cuts and 2 couplers required for gray shaft to drop out...
More later I got dinner waiting and now probably a PO's sig other.......
10-28-2009, 07:11 PM
#2
Nordschleife Master
Maybe it is the QE in me coming out, or maybe it is the ME in me coming out, but why not 1 cut , full length, with clam shell clamps (V-band style, with a bead to keep them from moving) to hold it together... it works on GEs biggest turbine engines to hold the turbine casing sections together....
1 v-band at each bearing should be sufficient to hold the entire thing together....
Model it, and run it through FEA and see what happens....
1 v-band at each bearing should be sufficient to hold the entire thing together....
Model it, and run it through FEA and see what happens....
10-28-2009, 09:21 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Will the TT drop if cut up front & sectioned out
Agreed the V bands would work.. have wrenched with them on the aircraft hardware before. The brown colored disc is my best guess at scale where 1st bearing might be...
Will the TT & shaft drop from rear undone and what cut gap up front?
I am a clutch virgin...on these that is...just wondering if one was to make this up in advance...when time for the clutch...replace torque tube with this (or similar) and you could service it anytime easier with out transaxle pull..?? One might even have this ready and saws all or hot knife out the old and in with the new assembly, leaving the transaxle alone...cut carefully and it is usable for the next one.....
SO .....If you undo the rear coupling on the shaft and then unbolt the torque tube housing large diameter cast flange from transaxle back there.
And if you were to split the torque tube casing up front there in 2 sections like I show (or similar).... and then undo a single solid shaft coupling like shown here which is about allowing a 3" shaft cut gap...For a big blown V8 Marine solid prop shaft coupling shown...not an issue for my 1983 NA there so FEA Ha LOL I can barley cut & extrude these basic shapes.
Would you be able to pull the torque tube forward (shifter??) un do the rear coupling then and drop torque tube out, with rest of solid drive shaft, the remaining 3 bearings, the rest of the tube and rear large flange assembly...???
Leaving a stub shaft (like it is your clutch alignment tool now too) long enough to be through the throw out bearing, the bell housing and all stuff there ...& that could be tackled..
Will the TT & shaft drop from rear undone and what cut gap up front?
I am a clutch virgin...on these that is...just wondering if one was to make this up in advance...when time for the clutch...replace torque tube with this (or similar) and you could service it anytime easier with out transaxle pull..?? One might even have this ready and saws all or hot knife out the old and in with the new assembly, leaving the transaxle alone...cut carefully and it is usable for the next one.....
SO .....If you undo the rear coupling on the shaft and then unbolt the torque tube housing large diameter cast flange from transaxle back there.
And if you were to split the torque tube casing up front there in 2 sections like I show (or similar).... and then undo a single solid shaft coupling like shown here which is about allowing a 3" shaft cut gap...For a big blown V8 Marine solid prop shaft coupling shown...not an issue for my 1983 NA there so FEA Ha LOL I can barley cut & extrude these basic shapes.
Would you be able to pull the torque tube forward (shifter??) un do the rear coupling then and drop torque tube out, with rest of solid drive shaft, the remaining 3 bearings, the rest of the tube and rear large flange assembly...???
Leaving a stub shaft (like it is your clutch alignment tool now too) long enough to be through the throw out bearing, the bell housing and all stuff there ...& that could be tackled..
10-28-2009, 09:39 PM
#4
Nordschleife Master
Agreed the V bands would work.. have wrenched with them on the aircraft hardware before. The brown colored disc is my best guess at scale where 1st bearing might be...
Will the TT & shaft drop from rear undone and what cut gap up front?
I am a clutch virgin...on these that is...just wondering if one was to make this up in advance...when time for the clutch...replace torque tube with this (or similar) and you could service it anytime easier with out transaxle pull..?? One might even have this ready and saws all or hot knife out the old and in with the new assembly, leaving the transaxle alone...cut carefully and it is usable for the next one.....
SO .....If you undo the rear coupling on the shaft and then unbolt the torque tube housing large diameter cast flange from transaxle back there.
And if you were to split the torque tube casing up front there in 2 sections like I show (or similar).... and then undo a single solid shaft coupling like shown here which is about allowing a 3" shaft cut gap...For a big blown V8 Marine solid prop shaft coupling shown...not an issue for my 1983 NA there so FEA Ha LOL I can barley cut & extrude these basic shapes.
Would you be able to pull the torque tube forward (shifter??) un do the rear coupling then and drop torque tube out, with rest of solid drive shaft, the remaining 3 bearings, the rest of the tube and rear large flange assembly...???
Leaving a stub shaft (like it is your clutch alignment tool now too) long enough to be through the throw out bearing, the bell housing and all stuff there ...& that could be tackled..
Will the TT & shaft drop from rear undone and what cut gap up front?
I am a clutch virgin...on these that is...just wondering if one was to make this up in advance...when time for the clutch...replace torque tube with this (or similar) and you could service it anytime easier with out transaxle pull..?? One might even have this ready and saws all or hot knife out the old and in with the new assembly, leaving the transaxle alone...cut carefully and it is usable for the next one.....
SO .....If you undo the rear coupling on the shaft and then unbolt the torque tube housing large diameter cast flange from transaxle back there.
And if you were to split the torque tube casing up front there in 2 sections like I show (or similar).... and then undo a single solid shaft coupling like shown here which is about allowing a 3" shaft cut gap...For a big blown V8 Marine solid prop shaft coupling shown...not an issue for my 1983 NA there so FEA Ha LOL I can barley cut & extrude these basic shapes.
Would you be able to pull the torque tube forward (shifter??) un do the rear coupling then and drop torque tube out, with rest of solid drive shaft, the remaining 3 bearings, the rest of the tube and rear large flange assembly...???
Leaving a stub shaft (like it is your clutch alignment tool now too) long enough to be through the throw out bearing, the bell housing and all stuff there ...& that could be tackled..
a well cared for clutch (normal use) should be a once in a while type thing (once a decade or so...), if it were as frequent as a timing belt I could see the trouble and expense, but the only thing this eliminates is dropping the transaxle... which isn't really a big deal once you get in and do it.. the entire transaxle is heavy for 1 person, but an easy 2 person lift... a floor jack makes quick work of it..
Now if we were talking track 951... well that is a whole different area to get into... some of the track rats, and highly modified street guys are tracking the hours it takes them to pull the whole motor... the dragon lemons car did a full head gasket job in 3 hours.... I can see this type of mod helping with easy clutch changes for someone who has problems keeping a clutch alive, but most of us... will just drop the trans...