mopar bob

It's not the lift that will make you to lose the low end power, it's the duration. The hot ticket now for hot street V8 motors is high lift with short duration. It use to be that when you got a high lift cam you also got a lot of duration and you lost low end power. With the new cams your gaining mid and upper RPM power with out losing "much" low end power. The cam for my 500ci Mopar has about 560" lift with only about 240 @ .50" of duration. With the old style cam profile the duration would be around 260 - 270 @ .50. That makes a race motor with the old and a strong street motor with the new. Idle with 270 duration about 1500 rpm with 240 duration 900 - 1000 rpm same lift.

thewerxracing

Usually we tune the Impreza's thru the OBDII port. Where would I even being to access the DME?

If I can tune the car, then, well, hotter cam it is. Much hotter.


I have no problem adding the MSDS Header, P&P Job, Honed Intake, and CAI to compliment the hot cam. Ooooooh, Im getting excited!

Also, as the car would be a weekend only toy, I don't mind bad street manners. Things like a smooth idle aren't important. In face, isn't a lumpy idle cooler anyway?

My tuner's Cammed STI

Rogue_Ant

thewerxracing,
Follow the link I posted - if you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a PM.


-Rogue

ritzblitz

Solid lifters start to come into play with hotter cams as well.

m73m95

You tune our DME's with a chip. I know Russell at MaxHP will burn you a custom chip for (I believe) the same price as one of his chips.

Also, I remember seeing a thread on here about buying the things to burn your own chip on your PC. You'll have to search for the thread. If I remember correctly, the chips, and the "burner" can be bought on ebay.

I know the 951 guys can buy a piggyback "chip" that is completely tunable from a PC, but I'm not sure it works for the NA DME.

I don't have any experience burning chips myself (I just know what I've read on here), but I know there are users on here that have. Hopefully they'll chime in.

thewerxracing

Rogue, it seems like you're the man to talk to in this case. I've always hated chips and that piggyback bull**** (Google: Cobb Accessport) and have always been a big fan of opensource tuning. I find it to be a more personal way of getting the car to perform rather than listing what the car has and "chipping" it with a tune close to what it should have. Screw that. If I'm investing money in cams, headers, headwork and other bull**** that I really don't ever need, I at least want to get the most out of it.

So, lets build a hot motor. What do you all say? I want one that is going to be a bear through the cones, not one where the get-up-and-go has got up and went. So, lets start hearing some opinions on parts here. I wanna keep this thing under $3,000. After all, it is just an NA.

So far, the Lindsey 3" Headers. That's all that's on the list...

m73m95

$3,000 will go quick. Especially if you want to start from scratch (bare block). Honing, and some bigger pistons will make nearly half of that cash go away.....

For that budget, I'd add to your existing engine (or find a low mileage donor long block for cheap)

thewerxracing

That's what I plan on doing. The motor has to come out to get a new Head Gasket. Soooooo, I was going to do new seals/bearings/belts/etc. 'while I was in there'.

And if I have the motor on the stand, there's no better time to add go-fast parts.

DANNiE

Agreed... Duration is key however these Electronically tuned and injected cars require some sort of tuning...

A mild cam of a slightly higher lift with the same duration may not require any chip tuning...

I know from tuning my VW that there were several different grinds from the factory... so maybe porsche has a similar arrangement... im sure a turbo cam has a different grind than a N/A and im betting that older cams -pre 85.5- have different grinds than the newer cams...

im not sure of the various grinds available from the factory... maybe someone here does... now if you increase lift too much you will have to dish or notch your pistons to allow for clearance you may need different springs and seats and it becomes alot to do... a mild increase to gain 15-20HP is a good gain...

since this discussion is about NA motors you want to let more air in and let more air out fast and you have to find a good amount of "lap over" timing in the cam... these are just a few factors to consider when buying or having a cam "just made"...

remember a motor is literally rocket science...

white924s

I have the Lindsey headers and 3" exhaust system on my car and I think it works well. If you're going to be custom tuning, I'd also add an extra O2 sensor bung on the exhaust for a wideband O2 sensor (factory is narrowband, not ideal for tuning purposes). On the intake side, I'd suggest looking into a MAF setup, which will hopefully open up some more flow into the motor. I don't know a ton about cams, but reading others' comments about high lift, shorter duration cams is definitely interesting. One thing that I haven't noticed discussed much is valve overlap, where the intake and exhaust valves are both open to induce a suction effect that will pull more air into the cylinder in an N/A engine. Does anybody know if adding more overlap would help the 944 n/a motor?