WTB: 7mm spacers
#2
Nordschleife Master
I'll likely have some for sale after next weekend, need to make sure that my wider ones work first. PM me if you are interested. Will also have some longer studs available, which you will need it you add spacers.
#6
#7
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#8
there is a half a thread on the stud sticking out past the nuts last thread (the nuts not threaded all the way to the end of the bore) i can catch my fingernail on the studs threads
i worked in the fastener industry and now work in engineering. as long as you are dealing with like materials and grades, any more thread engagement than the thickness of the bolt (stud) is a waste of your time. in most situations, once your thread engagement reaches half the thickness of the bolt, the bolt will snap BEFORE the threads pull out.
my setup is considerably safer than stock. i have the EXACT about on engagement but am using a steel nut instead of the factory alloy. my studs will shear LONG before the nut fails
#9
for example:
a 1in hex nut only has a thickness of 55/64
my thread engagement surpasses even that if the diameter of the stud.
there is a huge formula for all of this, i'm just dumbing it down.
you also have to remember that the coefficient between the tire and concrete must exceed the pullout strength of all FIVE lug nuts for there to be a problem...
a 1in hex nut only has a thickness of 55/64
my thread engagement surpasses even that if the diameter of the stud.
there is a huge formula for all of this, i'm just dumbing it down.
you also have to remember that the coefficient between the tire and concrete must exceed the pullout strength of all FIVE lug nuts for there to be a problem...
Last edited by thirdgenbird; 10-10-2009 at 01:31 PM.
#11
if it was 1.5 then a 1in nut would be 1.5in thick NOT 55/64ths like industry standard.
there is no good luck about it, i have the SAME threads engaged than my car did stock. i counted the turns. (and i'm using steel as apposed to stock alloy)
do the math is you dont believe me
#12
and as i already stated, i can feel the last thread if the stud (the nut is beveled) the stud could be a foot longer and i still would not have more engagement.
#13
Yes I can easily do the math but the point of fact is you will not pass any tech inspection as all threads on the nut need to be fully engaged.
And yes I use steel nuts as well but that has more to do with the disparity in heat expansion between aluminum and steel which will result in the nuts working loose on the track...
And yes I use steel nuts as well but that has more to do with the disparity in heat expansion between aluminum and steel which will result in the nuts working loose on the track...
#14
the threads are fully engaged. i can feel the last tread on the stud. this is also a street setup, my track wheels do not need spacers and i have (calaper measured) 7mm of thread sticking out.