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Is The Check Valve in the Fuel Pump Welded To The Bolt???

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Old 10-03-2009, 10:01 PM
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choinga
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Default Is The Check Valve in the Fuel Pump Welded To The Bolt???

so, I got the original pump and filter out tonight and was going to replace the pump with the unit I bought from Lindsey as well as their replacement hose that goes between the pump and the filter.

Couple things...

Is the check valve on the fuel pump in the original configuration welded into that nut/hose?? I can't for the life of me get my check valve out of that thing so that I can re-use the nut with the new hose I got. Ive had that thing in my vise and have tweaked the hell out of both ends...it ain't comin' off. I saw the same hose on Paragon and Lindsey's site - it doesn't come with a nut so I presume that you are supposed to be able to get this off?

The nipple on my new pump is a tad bit too big for the hose that comes from the fuel tank. I'm pretty sure it's the pump I bought from Lindsey is for the 928 but it's not the HV pump they have...they said it was supposed to be a direct fit into my 87 951 and it's a bit longer than the original pump, but by all accounts this is supposed to fit with the original line. I've still got some fuel in the tank, but can drain it I guess and put a new hose on there but I'm afraid that the end that connects to the tank is the same size as the original pump's nipple and then a new hose will be too lose on that end?

Such an easy job turns into a PITA...pisses me off...
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Last edited by choinga; 10-03-2009 at 10:22 PM.
Old 10-03-2009, 10:31 PM
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944Ross
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Hose from the tank to the pump is 1/2", at least on all NA's.

Yeah, the nut has to come off the check valve. If you can cut the old hose section off and get ALL the gas out of the fittings, heat would probably do the trick, just keep it away from the check valve.
Old 10-03-2009, 10:35 PM
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choinga
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I've got a new check valve with the new fuel pump...and quite frankly, replacing the check valve is about 90% of the reason that I'm doing this job anyway. So, I don't want nor care to preserve it...I just want the bolt on the end so that I can attach the new cable to new pump/check valve and then cap off the end. However, I can't find that bolt part anywhere...
Old 10-03-2009, 10:49 PM
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944Ross
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There's no "bolt", just the big nut. Heat away!
Old 10-03-2009, 10:57 PM
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ArthurPE
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you've put a box wrench on the nut and the check valve and can't break it loose counter-turning?
shoot some penetrating oil in the hose and on the fittings...
the book says ~16 lb-ft is the spec...
Old 10-03-2009, 11:12 PM
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choinga
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Thanks guys - I lathered it in a Kroll/p-blaster solution and let it sit for 30 minutes then torched it until I had a nice volcano flame coming out of the check valve and tweaked the hell out if and it finally came off.



Oh, any suggestions on that 928 pump...should I just send it back and go with the stock pump that fits this car. I'm leaning towards that...messing with the fuel supply is not a place where I want to be 'creative'. I don't know what, if any, advantages that pump will give me..not sure why went with it...IIRC, I think it was a bit cheaper than the stock one and assumed it would match up fine on BOTH ends...

My only options at this point are to keep what I have and then come up with a new hose (after draining 6 or 7 gallons of gas from the tank...) that will hopefully fit both ends fine...or just get the OEM pump and leave it stock.

Last edited by choinga; 10-03-2009 at 11:44 PM.
Old 10-04-2009, 06:37 PM
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Hey - one final question on this...

When putting this back together I see that I only have 1 washer to connect the hose to the check valve. Does it go inside (between the check valve and the hose) or outside (against the big nut)? I can't tell from my pic...and frankly, it was so nasty in between that it looked like they were welded to me.

On a side note, not sure if it was from the torch heat and my Kroll/P-Blaster mix or just gunk that has accumulated over 20+ years but there was some seriously crusty stuff in the check valve and it had gummed up the last few threads at the bottom of the bolt. It was so hard that I had to get my dremel out and drill through it to loosen it up in the bolt to clean it. Pretty gross.
Old 10-04-2009, 08:01 PM
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944Ross
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You need a copper washer on each side of the banjo fitting.
Old 10-04-2009, 09:46 PM
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Mike C.
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Ah... there's nothing quite like a lot of heat and brute force...
Old 10-06-2009, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 944Ross
You need a copper washer on each side of the banjo fitting.
Final question...do these HAVE to be copper washers? I'm having a hard time finding one that same size locally.
Old 10-06-2009, 06:48 PM
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Aluminum should also be OK. Try a dealer, motorcycle shop, etc. Napa should have them too.
I have seen them in the 'Help' section at car parts stores too.
Old 10-06-2009, 06:53 PM
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You should send the fuel pump back and get the right one for your car. The new fuel pump chack valve comes with 3 ea. copper washers. Replace the check valve. The hard stuff you mention is from an old fuel leak and sets up hard like varnish. It is also inside the old check valve.

Cheers,
Larry
Old 10-06-2009, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandpa#3
You should send the fuel pump back and get the right one for your car. The new fuel pump chack valve comes with 3 ea. copper washers. Replace the check valve. The hard stuff you mention is from an old fuel leak and sets up hard like varnish. It is also inside the old check valve.

Cheers,
Larry
I don't know that the residue would be inside the check valve; it forms when the gas evaporates.
Old 10-06-2009, 09:18 PM
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If something is cheap to replace while I'm in there, I do it. A check valve is only like $20.00 and one more thing I have peace of mind about. Of course, you could soak it in some carb cleaner to try and remove any buildup inside. It is not a good idea to use aluminum washers between two steel parts as dissimilar metal corrosion will set in and cause leaks, copper does not cause this reaction. Just my $0.10 worth, inflation.

Cheers,
Larry
Old 10-06-2009, 10:37 PM
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Thanks everyone. FWIW, all the pumps I've seen come with the check valve and as I mentioned this is basically the reason I'm doing this job but I know that the filter and pump are original in the car (and it's got 90k on it now) and might as well change them all out while I'm in there...

What about a stainless steel washer? Would that be better than an alum one? I ordered an OEM replacement pump from Paragon and was expecting it today but it didn't come. They don't say anything about whether or not the washers come with the pump...the one I got from Lindsey didn't come with them so I assumed that this one wouldn't either. I went to two part stores today (Autozone and Pep Boys) and neither had a copper washer this size...they have some that are just a mm or so smaller but they just don't fit and I can't even thread them on...frustrating. Once again, such an easy job keeps my car up on the jacks in the garage for going on 5 days now...*sigh*...

My existing valve is trashed...there's no bringing it back and as bad as it was corroded or whatever inside I wouldn't even want to. No wonder after not driving my car for a day or more it would die immediately after I started it for the first time and then come to life and start/run with no issue on the second crank. I've shredded it a little with my Dremel bit to get what was sticking out of the end off so I could use the threads to clean out what was stuck in the threads inside the bolt but here's what it looks like now:
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