my car has been in storage since October battery disconnected, on and off jacks, and exhaust off. the only thing I have done to it was get under it once in a while to check things out. the other day I noticed 2 puddles under the car one by brake fluid(leaks from the bottom of the reservoir I think I need a new seal) and the other is oil(rear main seal I suspect) the total oil is only about 5-6 oz. if i had to guess as my oil level still shows the level is ok if not a little high. I am sure all the oil in the motor has drained to the pan by now. my clutch is quite new so I am worried about clutch wear from the leaking seal. can I replace this seal my self? I have access to a lift on the weekends. what kind of time am I looking at? should I do it?

 

Just like doing a clutch, but you remove the flywheel also. Make sure when you put in new seal that you push it all the way to the bottom of the bore not flush with outer lip as it says in haynes. Seal will leak around the outside if not pushed in all the way. Found this out the hard way.

Art

 

Like art said....

You remove the exhaust
Disconnect CV joints
Disconect shift linkage
Remove transaxel
Disconnect and pull back torque tube
Remove starter/speed & ref sensors
Remove clutch housing
Remove clutch
You now have half of your 944 on your workbench

Install stupid $2 seal

Install $1200 clutch even though you dont need one, because you never want to do this again.

Reverse proceedure. Good Luck & Enjoy

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by art:
<strong>Just like doing a clutch, but you remove the flywheel also. Make sure when you put in new seal that you push it all the way to the bottom of the bore not flush with outer lip as it says in haynes. Seal will leak around the outside if not pushed in all the way. Found this out the hard way.

Art</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Let me repeat that again... make sure you put in a new FACTORY seal and you PUSH IT ALL THE WAY to the bottom of the bore NOT FLUSH with the outer lip... I had to do it twice before finding out that I had done it wrong...

And as Bill mentions... you will be going crazy thinking whether to put in a new clutch since you have gone through all the trouble... ask me how I know... (Jaime, still debating whether to drop in the same clutch that only has a few thousand miles or drop in a new Cup clutch...)

Edit: Also know that it is recommended to replace the flywheel bolts when doing this... and the needle bearings, and the pilot bearing, ... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />

 

I spent about an hour in the Vicks plumbing section and finally found a tool to drive in the rear seal. I don't know about anyone else, but all my sockets and bearing driver tools were too small for the job.
It turned out that a 4" PVC cap is just a little smaller then the seals OD and is also a little narrower then the seals ID. I also filed off the threads to get a better grip on it. The main seal is with the PVC cap in the pictures.
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Sealdriver1.JPG" target="_blank">TOP</a>
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Sealdriver2.JPG" target="_blank">BOTTOM</a>

 

sounds like I have spring break plans...wahoo.
does anyone have any pics of the procedure? I have a haynes manual.

 

I did my clutch with just a Haynes manual. Once you get the flywheel off you will be looking at the rear main seal around the crank shaft. I think doing the clutch on these cars is pretty easy, it just takes a long time. The hardest part for me was getting the tranny back in.

 

so what fluids do I need to change? I was planning on doing the cv joints anyway so i guess this is just one more step. How about time involved if I have a person helping me? I will put it on my uncles lift during the weekend when it is not in use in the spring.