Hey now mine just shut off WTF
03-08-2003, 02:28 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hey now mine just shut off WTF
Well I thought I had it figured out last time. Rplaced the DME relay. Goes along for 4+ weeks and then bam! Off again. Checked fuel pump fuse, DME relay (I have a spare) it would start, sputter and die. I could hear the fuel pump run, then increased noise from fuel pump, then no noise (pump shut off?) then car dies. Repeat!. This morning 7+ hours later, car starts and runs. HELP?
03-08-2003, 02:45 PM
#2
Nerd Herder
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Kevin- No problem hijacking my thread- hope it helps you nonetheless, and it's not hijacking if we learn something in the process. As long as we get 'em running I dont care!!!!!!!!!!
03-08-2003, 02:49 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
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Hmm, you may want to check your fuel filter...sometimes it will have junk buildup and when you let it sit...it unclogs, then reclogs as you drive. I'd check the fuel filter since its pretty cheap and very quick/easy to do.
03-08-2003, 05:40 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
LMAO you have to put gas in the car or it will not run (just the basics). I am j/k about the gas. My guess is the pump in the tank has gone bad or Fuel filter.
03-10-2003, 01:29 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok now it's starting to frustrate me. Changed the fuel filter, ran it and ran it, for about an hour on Sunday. Parked it, Blessed it, said 3 "Hail Marys" turned and bowed to the Northeast (Stutgart) went to sleep, woke up left for work, and 2 miles later, its off again.
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03-10-2003, 02:59 PM
#8
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Maybe you have a bad ground somewhere. These cars are notorious for that. Do a search on "grounds", somebody (Iceshark?) posted the location of every groud point in the 944.
03-10-2003, 03:18 PM
#9
Race Car
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Kevin,
Make sure the speed and crank reference sensors are plugged in tight. If they get loose the car will die just like it ran out of gas.
Tell me that you changed that ugly a$$ distributor cap and rotor!
Make sure the speed and crank reference sensors are plugged in tight. If they get loose the car will die just like it ran out of gas.
Tell me that you changed that ugly a$$ distributor cap and rotor!
03-10-2003, 03:36 PM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
OK Keith I (by the time I see the car again)have changed the cap and rotor.
The 3 plugs that are ganged together above to the rear of the intake (speed/ref sensors o2 sensor) are plugged in.
Do you think it could be those ugly ignition parts?
The 3 plugs that are ganged together above to the rear of the intake (speed/ref sensors o2 sensor) are plugged in.
Do you think it could be those ugly ignition parts?
03-10-2003, 04:22 PM
#11
Intermediate
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I had a similar problem...changed the fuel filter, DME relay, cap, rotor, and plugs...after changing the plugs with platnum +4's I tried starting the car and she was idling real rough and dying...I looked at the plugs and noticed 2 of them were DRY...as the car was barely idling I tapped on the fuel rail near each injector and it started running great...I then changed the injectors and WOW...INSTANT SATISFACTION...My car now runs SWEEEET...
Just thought I'd throw in my $.02
Jimmy
Just thought I'd throw in my $.02
Jimmy
03-10-2003, 07:15 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
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Kevin; The bit about the tone of the pump changing is interesting. Providing it has plenty of fuel available at its inlet (eliminating the possibility that it's cavitating), then it sounds like maybe the faulty ground, or a bad pump might be your culprit. It also could be that a long term increase in current draw through the pump caused your old DME to go south.
03-10-2003, 09:25 PM
#13
Instructor
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Same symptoms would raise in three more failures:
1) Vacuum system leak, one or more small hoses have a small hole in them or a little S-shaped hose from idler control to intake manifold is broken (in my case)... Check the vacuum system!
2) Mass air flow sensor connection is loose - the car will crank but not start if the connection is unpluged (I forgot to plug it in many times). If it is intermittent car may behave like in a similar way.
3) Throttle position sensor may be wearing out (this one is a stretch though!)
The easiest way to troubleshoot fuel system is to mount fuel gage at the end of the rail and monitor it when trouble returns...
Hope these help!
Thanks.
1) Vacuum system leak, one or more small hoses have a small hole in them or a little S-shaped hose from idler control to intake manifold is broken (in my case)... Check the vacuum system!
2) Mass air flow sensor connection is loose - the car will crank but not start if the connection is unpluged (I forgot to plug it in many times). If it is intermittent car may behave like in a similar way.
3) Throttle position sensor may be wearing out (this one is a stretch though!)
The easiest way to troubleshoot fuel system is to mount fuel gage at the end of the rail and monitor it when trouble returns...
Hope these help!
Thanks.
03-19-2003, 11:40 PM
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
Update. Well I am attempting to replicate the "occurance" in a somewhat controled environment. I have the new rotor/cap, but I suspect the old ones, so I am trying to let it stall, so I can change the rotor/cap, and attempt to start (normally once it stalls, it will not restart) if it does, then those parts are likely to have been bad.
03-31-2003, 05:50 PM
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
Update..after changing; both fuel filters, DME relay, dist cap & rotor, plugs/wires, coil FPR, FPD. I think maybe its fixed?
I drove it about 30 miles on Saturday and some on Sunday, drove it in to work today 38 miles, so far so good!
They PO said that it had failed the emissions test (HC) but on Saturday she passed.
I belive the technical term may be WOOOOOO HOOOOO
I drove it about 30 miles on Saturday and some on Sunday, drove it in to work today 38 miles, so far so good!
They PO said that it had failed the emissions test (HC) but on Saturday she passed.
I belive the technical term may be WOOOOOO HOOOOO