Potomac-Greg

I'm getting a track alignment today on the below specs. I'm posting it both for reference, but also to see how it compares to others. The car is an occasional street car (once a week), and I don't care about tire wear (except on track).

You need camber plates to get this much negative camber in front, and it needs to be lowered in back to get -2 degrees.

.......Camber........Caster.....Toe
RF.....-2.75 deg....Max........0.0 to 0.5 toe out.
LF......-2.75 deg....Max

RR.....-2.0 deg.....Max.......0.5 (1/8”) toe in.
LR.....-2.0 deg.....Max

Van

If you lift the car up in the air and have a helper tilt the front wheels, you can get -3 degrees of camber with stock camber plates (at least on a late offset car).

If you just turn the eccentric while the suspension is loaded, you only get about -2.1 or -2.2 degrees.

I shoot for 0.0 front toe and about 1/16" toe in on the rear.

Lemming

I run a bit more negative camber -3.5 front/-2.25 rear with good heat across the tire width. My car likes a bit of toe out in front and a bit of toe in in back.

Edit: this is for Hoosier R6's in 275/40-17's all around.

M758

That is a good ball park. However if you really want to dial the car in you need to take tire temps and look at wear patterns. You may end up adjusting the camber from there.

When running RA-1s. I used o run 3.5 front and -2.5 rear. However running on R888's and taking tire temps have been pulling camber out of the car. 1/2 to 1 degree less. However what may work for me may not be perfect for you. From what I can see you in the right range.

Oddjob

Always good to identify what tires you are using, as track alignments are specific to tire brands (primarily camber settings due to differences in sidewall construction).

For example, the old BFG R1s had extremely stiff sidewalls compared to other tires of the time (yoko A008Rs or the early Hoosier R3S03s), so would only run -1.5 to -1.8 camber, while running -2.5 to -3.0 for other tires - same car, same track.

Potomac-Greg

Thx. I'm on street tires this year (hoping to burn them off at VIR in November) and plan on going back to RA1s next year.

shiners780

Almost identical to my current setup with Hoosier R6's, 245/255. Only very minor difference is -2.6* camber up front.

Potomac-Greg

My alignment is done. After doing my spring plate bushings myself, and eyeballing the alignment to the best of my abilities, it turns out I ended up with -4.0 degrees camber on the passenger side!

The tech also pointed out that the car has a tendence to favor the left, and then favor the right, fairly evenly, and he thinks it may be a steering rack that's sliding. It's probably a good idea to re-do the bushings. Anyone know how big a job that is?

ritzblitz

Steering rack bushings? Small job. Hour or so.

Potomac-Greg

Really? That's great. I may tackle that one before my track day.

ritzblitz

Yep, all it involves is removing the belly pan and 4 bolts. The delrin bushings can be a little tricky to get in though.

Potomac-Greg

What's a belly pan? So I'm down to 45 minutes now!

pjburges

I just put a new torsion bars in the rear end of mine and I hope I didnt get it too low. Its sitting pretty damn low with an empty gas tank and no tranny. What does the eccentric bolt give for adjustment? 1/2" up?

DanR

I have been running -2.7 F and -2.2 rear. The rears are fine for wear and temp however I am getting bad wear on the fronts and need more camber. (I am actually wearing the outside of the tire first, 10 sessions and my last 2 sets of tires were gone!!!)