Pics of stripped interiors and race/custom dashes
#19
Race Director
wow. Given where you DME is it makes it easy for me to swap the DME for Dyno testing. We did that to a few cars at Nationals this year. Pretty easy way to determine if the DME is stock or not.
#23
#26
Instructor
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Oakville, ON Canada
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I'm doing it to my project car, and actually I don't mind it much. I think it has something to do with being **** retentive - "gotta get that last bit...of...glue...off"
#27
Race Director
I have to say that stripped interiors on white cars look better than stripped red cars. I think it has to do with it evoking the Porsche factory racers and body in white concept.
#29
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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thanks for the inspiration guys. I've been scraping for 2 days, and now I have a wire wheel on the angle grinder trying to get that damn glue up.
And chad, that looks amazing, is the black bed liner? Either way it looks beautiful.
Is there some secret to getting the glue up? Or is the angle grinder the easiest way?
And chad, that looks amazing, is the black bed liner? Either way it looks beautiful.
Is there some secret to getting the glue up? Or is the angle grinder the easiest way?
#30
Nordschleife Master
thanks for the inspiration guys. I've been scraping for 2 days, and now I have a wire wheel on the angle grinder trying to get that damn glue up.
And chad, that looks amazing, is the black bed liner? Either way it looks beautiful.
Is there some secret to getting the glue up? Or is the angle grinder the easiest way?
And chad, that looks amazing, is the black bed liner? Either way it looks beautiful.
Is there some secret to getting the glue up? Or is the angle grinder the easiest way?
Thanks. Took me 3 months (off and on) to get that done.
Here's what I did:
Tools & bits needed:
1. Knife edge putty knife/scraper
2. Corse metal scraping wire wheel (for drill)
3. Gallons of Xylene
4. A couple bottles of Goo Gone
5. Old towels (about 3 of them) - don't plan on using them ever again.
6. Cartridge based gas mask, gloves and eye protection <--you will need these
5. Self-etching primer spray
6. Matching paint color (I did rattle can from Paintscratch.com)
7. Elbow grease - AND LOTS OF IT.
My method:
1. Pull out seats, center console, and all the carpets and padding. As much as you can without the use of power tools.
2. Next - scrape out all the leftover bits you can by hand.
3. Remove sunroof (if applicable), roll car outside and place towels on each side of the floor pan. Pour ample amounts of Xylene onto them and let it soak in. The longer it soaks, the easier the tar pads will come off.
4. After soaking for about 1 hour (in the sun helps), wearing all the protective bits you can, scrape out the tar pads, glue, etc.
5. After getting the wet portions out with the scraper, use the drill combined with the wire wheel to grind out the rest. Be prepared - it will take a lot of work to get it all out.
6. Lastly - Go to Eastwood.com and get some body sealer to seal up the portions of the OE body sealer you removed. The sealer has nothing to do with sound deadening, it simply seals up the unibody seams to keep the water out.
Total hours to complete - 50+
WEAR PROTECTIVE COVERINGS WHEN WORKING WITH XYLENE - the stuff will burn your skin and can cause asphyxiation if breathed in heavy doses.
Please note - I offer this as one enthusiast to another. I assume no responsibility if you choose to do this. By choosing this method - you are on your own. Please by all means read the bottles of any chemical you use and heed the warnings.
Good luck.
Photos of the progress:
Primed:
Painted: