amaf

Today, I took it to a close friend of my dads who's a mechanic for the overheating problem. Anyway, he came to the conclusion that the fan switch wasn't working. So, we bought a fan switch for $40 from a forgein auto part store, and we raised the car, took off the cover. He showed me using some wires why the fans were going off, so he took the old fan switch out, and replaced it with the new one. Than we leaked out the coolant, and replaced it with new one. We lowered the car, and let it run. We just turned on the car, and the temp guage was slowly going up, but the fans weren't running. He said to give it more time, so it hits the third mark, and nothing. He said to give the car more time to heat up since it's cold. We gave the car some time to heat up, when it was in the danger section. The fans kicked, and the temp guage wasn't going down much. Than, he hooked up a temp reader to the engine and radiator, and he found the car's fan would kick at around 150 degrees or so, but the temp guage was showing the danger. When the fans kicked in the temp reader would lower, but the guage would stay around the same. He came to the conclusion that it may either be the central unit, or the temp guage itself. He said the car isnt overheating, it's the other two problems playing tricks on you. What do you guys think? If this is correct, should I correct the rest of the problems?

Secondly, I was listening to the radio today in my car, and the speakers all of a sudden got muzzled and distorted. Do you think the speakers went bad? The mechanic said it wasnt the ground, it had to be the bad speakers. If so, what type of speakers should I replace them with, that can take the abuse?

nickhance

I don't know if this is much help, but I think you can really tell if the car is overheating.

My car will sit between the 2nd and third marks, usaully just a hair above the second mark and it feels like it gets VERY warm. I've burned my fingers while checking my oil a few times.

Deepice

Due to the age of your car and the fact the VDO makes a POS I would say it's possible

I rarely trust my dash and I always verify what the motor is doing with a multimeter.

The other thing is you drove the car all over hells kitchen when we told you not to and the fact that it didn't blow up tells me that the car was never realy overheating.

amaf

The guy said the engine was running normal, and the guage was lieing. He said the fans should kick like normal, and everything should work fine. Also, what type of coolant should I use for my 924? Brand? Type?

Der Cupmeister

I like to use Sierra Low-Tox, phosphate free coolant. It is a pretty green and is less harmful to the critteres in the neighborhood if I should have a spill.

hth,
Jim Cooper

Deepice

what coolant is of major debate on rennlist good luck in finding a solution

Bri Bro

Something sounds strange to me...150 F = 65C. Most water pump thermostates don't open until the engine is at 80 or 90C and my catalog shows a 88 944S fan thermostat trips at 83 C (181F). If the fan turns on at 65C, it would run most of the time when the car is not moving air through the radiator.

It does sound like the sending unit to the temp gauge might need replacing. They (two) are located in the head by #1 cyclinder. One goes to the DME and the other to the gauge. I think the single wire connection is for the gauge.

Major brand phosphate free anti-freeze with distilled water is what I use.

nh3

Replaced the coolant, lowered the car and let it run? You didn't say if you bled the cooling system. Your car will overheat and the fans wont work right with air in the system.

nh3

amaf

We bled the cooling system for a moment. I checked the car earlier, and found that their was no thermostat at all.

Bones944

Having no thermostat at all can contribute to overheating as well. The coolant runs through the radiator so quickly it doesn't have time to cool. Replace your missing thermostat.

amaf

OK, I have to go back to NAPA auto parts to get the right one. They gave me a regular sized one, instead of the one for my car.

IceShark

Another thing you might want to do is check the wiring to the temp sender and the gauge and clean that up. I don't know about the temperature measurment system, but some of these sending units read higher on the gauge the lower the voltage. So with bad wiring and low voltage you get a misleading high reading.

And may as well clean up or replace your battery ground and maybe add a supplemental from engine block to frame. Ground is a nice big fat problem with our cars.

jim968

[quote]Originally posted by amaf:
<strong>We bled the cooling system for a moment.
I checked the car earlier, and found that their was no thermostat at all.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Bled for a moment? Unlikely to be adequate; these cars almost always take a major effort to bleed fully.

No thermostat? Are you sure you were looking in the right place? It's not in the neck on the upper left side of the engine, even tho' it looks like a thermostat housing. It's in the neck of the water pump, where the big hose connects under the distributor cap.

Jim, "If it's tourist season, why can't we shoot some of them?"

amaf

So, the thermostat isn't located under the elbow where the water hose drives in, and the blew screw with the other two screws are located?

When we bled it, you can see stuff coming out, so we cracked it open, than closed it after a little time.

The electrian part is hard to deal with, I think I might leave it the way it is. I'm going to try a few more things, but if its anything to do electrically I'm not.

Deepice

[quote]Originally posted by amaf:
<strong>
The electrian part is hard to deal with, I think I might leave it the way it is. I'm going to try a few more things, but if its anything to do electrically I'm not.</strong><hr></blockquote>

You just "can't do it" Get a friggin Hayes Manual!

Learn the car before you break something like the hydro induction capacitor.