Bellhousing & torque tube stuck!
07-19-2002, 07:26 AM
#1
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Bellhousing & torque tube stuck!
I have an Auto 924S that needs a new flex-disc. Decided best way in there was to drop the exhaust & transmission as per Haynes (done that) and then back out the bellhousing & torque tube. Haynes list this in the clutch section, same process for the auto & manual...BUT...they forgot that the ATF pipes go over the top of the bellhousing.
Now I can't back out the TT more than 1/2" from the bellhousing (all 4 bolts removed, ATF pipe clamps removed). Can't see why it's sticking as there's still 1.5" of play left in the ATF pipes.
(Also haven't found a way of getting the 2 top bellhousing bolts off without removing the inlet manifold, heater control valve, etc. but bought a new 19mm short socket that might fit!)
Anybody suggest any tricks I might try? Like something the guys at Haynes forgot? (That couldn't happen, could it?
)
(Dennis, has 924S, stuck on driveway, will make good plantholder!)
Now I can't back out the TT more than 1/2" from the bellhousing (all 4 bolts removed, ATF pipe clamps removed). Can't see why it's sticking as there's still 1.5" of play left in the ATF pipes.
(Also haven't found a way of getting the 2 top bellhousing bolts off without removing the inlet manifold, heater control valve, etc. but bought a new 19mm short socket that might fit!)
Anybody suggest any tricks I might try? Like something the guys at Haynes forgot? (That couldn't happen, could it?
)(Dennis, has 924S, stuck on driveway, will make good plantholder!)
07-19-2002, 10:09 AM
#2
I believe it would be very similar to an 944, Here are some suggestions if it were a 5 spd., maybe it will help.
I did not read that you removed the shifter from the torque tube. If it was not removed, it would hang you up. If it was, there are two places that can get hung up when removing the TT. When you slide it back, watch that the exhaust hanger does not get hung at the rear suspension torsion bar tube and that the end is not hitting aginst the spare tire well, it takes some finesse to get it clear of those obsticles.
If all those are clear, the only other thing I can think of is that the shaft-end is stuck in the pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel.
I did not read that you removed the shifter from the torque tube. If it was not removed, it would hang you up. If it was, there are two places that can get hung up when removing the TT. When you slide it back, watch that the exhaust hanger does not get hung at the rear suspension torsion bar tube and that the end is not hitting aginst the spare tire well, it takes some finesse to get it clear of those obsticles.
If all those are clear, the only other thing I can think of is that the shaft-end is stuck in the pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel.
07-19-2002, 01:24 PM
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I changed mine a while back . Here are a series of e mails I wrote with to help someone else.
I just cut and pasted them .
Mine vibrated all the time . I tried motor mounts and that helped a little bit . If you want to check it out , just take your starter off and look inside the opening at the rubber disk . I was told that they usually last about ten years or so . The disk rots out and cracks. I found out that when they break apart the chunks of rubber fly around in the bell housing and trash the ignition sensors . I was lucky as mine are still OK . The trans isn't too bad to get out . When you remove the shifter cable look for the lock wire that holds it in place before you force it loose. The upper trans mount is held on with two allen head bolts in a horizontal position directly on top of the trans. The speed sensor is above the drivers side axle on the top of the trans . It is just a normal push on rectangular connector like on the rest of the car . Set your floor jack in about the middle , slightly towards the rear of the trans for dropping it down . The rearmost cooler line is a real pain. I didn't have a short enough wrench so I had to lower the trans about five inches before I could get the line off and finish dropping the trans. The cooler lines also need to be disconnected at the rear of the engine . You will find no room to work . I suggest buying a set of stubby metric wrenches for removing the cooler lines . So far I did not have to remove the shifter inside the car , but you do have to take the cables off the engine so the torque tube can slide back . You need to remove the exhaust from the manifold back . Make sure you disconnect the O2 sensor . On the top of the front bell housing are the ignition sensors , you need to take them out also . Make sure you mark them first because they need to go back in the original holes. Right near these sensors are two bolts , one has a 13mm head and the other a 12 mm head . They look like they go through the bell housing into the block. Don't take them out . I did and now I will have to reset the depth of the sensors . I have no idea how to do that yet , but I'm going to learn . On the front of the torque tube the damper is held on with a pinch bolt . You can get to it through the opening in the bell housing . A guy by the name of Mick just e-mailed me that my problem is the there is a clip on the end of the drive shaft that holds the damper on . I will need to remove the bell housing and torque tube as a unit and break the clip .
I hope I have helped you out . I know there isn't much information out there on how to change this thing .
Check the cooler lines on top of the torque tube. You can disconnect them up front .
It is a PITA . In order to move the torque tube the whole way back you will need to rotate it upside down.
Did you disconnect the front coupler ? Did you unbolt the flex disc from the engine ? You have to do this before you can
remove the bell housing and torque tube . The bell housing and flex disc come off in one piece . There is a small metal clip
that is on the end of the drive shaft inside the torque tube . This clip holds the flex disc to the drive shaft .You can break this off once you have the whole assembly out.
the torque tube and bell housing have to come back in one piece.
The clip holds the flex disc to the drive shaft which is pressed into the torque tube bearings
Once you remove the clip ( and not re install it ) you can re assemble the bell housing and
torque tube to the engine separately
Shawn
87 944 na
Automatic
I just cut and pasted them .
Mine vibrated all the time . I tried motor mounts and that helped a little bit . If you want to check it out , just take your starter off and look inside the opening at the rubber disk . I was told that they usually last about ten years or so . The disk rots out and cracks. I found out that when they break apart the chunks of rubber fly around in the bell housing and trash the ignition sensors . I was lucky as mine are still OK . The trans isn't too bad to get out . When you remove the shifter cable look for the lock wire that holds it in place before you force it loose. The upper trans mount is held on with two allen head bolts in a horizontal position directly on top of the trans. The speed sensor is above the drivers side axle on the top of the trans . It is just a normal push on rectangular connector like on the rest of the car . Set your floor jack in about the middle , slightly towards the rear of the trans for dropping it down . The rearmost cooler line is a real pain. I didn't have a short enough wrench so I had to lower the trans about five inches before I could get the line off and finish dropping the trans. The cooler lines also need to be disconnected at the rear of the engine . You will find no room to work . I suggest buying a set of stubby metric wrenches for removing the cooler lines . So far I did not have to remove the shifter inside the car , but you do have to take the cables off the engine so the torque tube can slide back . You need to remove the exhaust from the manifold back . Make sure you disconnect the O2 sensor . On the top of the front bell housing are the ignition sensors , you need to take them out also . Make sure you mark them first because they need to go back in the original holes. Right near these sensors are two bolts , one has a 13mm head and the other a 12 mm head . They look like they go through the bell housing into the block. Don't take them out . I did and now I will have to reset the depth of the sensors . I have no idea how to do that yet , but I'm going to learn . On the front of the torque tube the damper is held on with a pinch bolt . You can get to it through the opening in the bell housing . A guy by the name of Mick just e-mailed me that my problem is the there is a clip on the end of the drive shaft that holds the damper on . I will need to remove the bell housing and torque tube as a unit and break the clip .
I hope I have helped you out . I know there isn't much information out there on how to change this thing .
Check the cooler lines on top of the torque tube. You can disconnect them up front .
It is a PITA . In order to move the torque tube the whole way back you will need to rotate it upside down.
Did you disconnect the front coupler ? Did you unbolt the flex disc from the engine ? You have to do this before you can
remove the bell housing and torque tube . The bell housing and flex disc come off in one piece . There is a small metal clip
that is on the end of the drive shaft inside the torque tube . This clip holds the flex disc to the drive shaft .You can break this off once you have the whole assembly out.
the torque tube and bell housing have to come back in one piece.
The clip holds the flex disc to the drive shaft which is pressed into the torque tube bearings
Once you remove the clip ( and not re install it ) you can re assemble the bell housing and
torque tube to the engine separately
Shawn
87 944 na
Automatic
07-19-2002, 01:58 PM
#4
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I just did my clutch not sure of the differences. but will state what I found.. top bolts I used a combination wrench used the box end on the bolt head.. and then stuck a box end on the open end of the wrench on the bolt for leverage like a breaker bar.. both wrenches standard offset. they slip in nicley between the firewall and engine. did not have to remove anything.. Torque tube, has a front and rear set of hooks at the back just before and after a brace that is just infront of the trany hollow in the rear..with the torque tube in normal position pull back about an inch or so.. rotate 90 degrees all the while doing this you must keep putting things back on top of the tube. once rotated 90 pull back as far as you can.. all the while keeping things on top.. the back hooks should beclear after about 4 to 5 inches.. then to get it the rest of the way out. rotate torque tube so the hooks are now on top. while keeping all the stuff above the tube there. then you should be able to pull the torque tube all they way back.. On the manual trany it has to be ALLL the way back till it hits the tire well... The main thing wasconstantly adjusting the stuff up top and slidding the muffler mounts as you work your way back. with the torque tube. 2 people, 1 front and 1 back would make this easier..It took me awhile to get this right. as I kept thinking this was far enough... it has to touch the spare tire well to get the bell housing out.. this was on a manual though.. but I dought that the auto is a whole lot different..good luck! Sorry about the length of this guy's but I spent almost 2 hours doing this.. as it was not ever clearly pointed out in anything I read..ie, haynes pull torque tube back......that is all it said.. <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" />
07-19-2002, 07:44 PM
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Hey guys, THANKS! It's all good looking info you supplied, the Haynes is definately shy a bit of detail about this. It looks as though the bellhousing & torque tube removal is almost the same for manual & auto, the main difference is the ATF cooler lines.
I'll let you know how I get on-if the rain doesn't arrive, it might even be this weekend!
I'll let you know how I get on-if the rain doesn't arrive, it might even be this weekend!
