Just finished wiring my keylight
03-06-2003, 01:54 PM
#17
Racer
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sharky47 - you CAN get just the crest for your keyhead. And the l.e.d.s are SUPPOSED to be bright for their size...that's the whole idea. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
led - looking at your setup, I have a few concerns...first, there's absolutely no need for a resistor in the key. There's no WAY you're going to hurt those lights with a couple of batteries - all you're doing is wasting battery juice and dimming the light. Also, I believe those batteries are too small. And finally, I've found that soldering is not the way to go. sharky - you said roughly $12 in parts. So take that twelve, plus the cost of a brand new keyhead, plus the time you have invested. Now what would you say it's all worth. Maybe about $45 or so? If anyone wants to save their time, just try this... <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406380048" target="_blank">eBay key auction.</a>
We here at ImagineAuto are always working for you, the Porsche owners of the world!
led - looking at your setup, I have a few concerns...first, there's absolutely no need for a resistor in the key. There's no WAY you're going to hurt those lights with a couple of batteries - all you're doing is wasting battery juice and dimming the light. Also, I believe those batteries are too small. And finally, I've found that soldering is not the way to go. sharky - you said roughly $12 in parts. So take that twelve, plus the cost of a brand new keyhead, plus the time you have invested. Now what would you say it's all worth. Maybe about $45 or so? If anyone wants to save their time, just try this... <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406380048" target="_blank">eBay key auction.</a>
We here at ImagineAuto are always working for you, the Porsche owners of the world!
03-06-2003, 02:49 PM
#18
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Yeah, Yeah, just go ahead an burst my bubble. Seriously, I really do enjoy DIY projects if for nothing else than to expand my knowledge and have a little fun.
03-06-2003, 03:00 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Full details on how to DIY:
<a href="http://63.136.85.109/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3291" target="_blank">http://63.136.85.109/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3291</a>
<a href="http://63.136.85.109/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3291" target="_blank">http://63.136.85.109/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3291</a>
03-06-2003, 07:55 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
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OMG that was easy. You definitely need three batteries though, two is much much dimmer. I think it took all of five minutes, with soldering.
Radio Shack Part numbers:
23-188 Lithium Battery CR1220 qty. 3
276-320 5mm White LED qty. 1
$13.96
WOW that's bright.... <img border="0" alt="[jumper]" title="" src="graemlins/jumper.gif" />
You definitely need three batteries though, two is much much dimmer. I think it took all of five minutes, with soldering.Radio Shack Part numbers:
23-188 Lithium Battery CR1220 qty. 3
276-320 5mm White LED qty. 1
$13.96
WOW that's bright.... <img border="0" alt="[jumper]" title="" src="graemlins/jumper.gif" />
03-07-2003, 12:18 AM
#24
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Quick note. The pic was mine. Superbright LEDs need a min of 2.7V~2.8V top operate, below that voltage: no light. So you need a min of 3V to make a superbright LED work. Factory light was made to run on 1.5V. Batteries I chose (CR1220) are small, but they are 3V per (6V system).
Now the voltage drop from 3V to 2.7V is not that far, that is why I made the choice to go with 6V, longer battery life. But you need to limit the current to ~10mA otherwise you will burn out the LED. That is the reason for the resistor, to limit the current. Believe me the light is not dim.
Cheers,
Now the voltage drop from 3V to 2.7V is not that far, that is why I made the choice to go with 6V, longer battery life. But you need to limit the current to ~10mA otherwise you will burn out the LED. That is the reason for the resistor, to limit the current. Believe me the light is not dim.
Cheers,
03-07-2003, 01:28 AM
#25
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Riff:
<strong>
Now the voltage drop from 3V to 2.7V is not that far, that is why I made the choice to go with 6V, longer battery life. But you need to limit the current to ~10mA otherwise you will burn out the LED. That is the reason for the resistor, to limit the current. Believe me the light is not dim.
Cheers,</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Hey Riff,
If you want longer battery life then wire the two batterys in parellel not series. Increasing the voltage and adding more resistance won't get you more battery life. However, your correct in adding a resistor to limit the current if the device is rated for 10mAmps; LEDs or diodes have a fixed voltage drop across the device of 0.6volts so you'll need an extra resistor to maintain 10mAmps and (2.4V over R1 for 3V or 5.4V over R1 for 6V).
Hope this helps
<strong>
Now the voltage drop from 3V to 2.7V is not that far, that is why I made the choice to go with 6V, longer battery life. But you need to limit the current to ~10mA otherwise you will burn out the LED. That is the reason for the resistor, to limit the current. Believe me the light is not dim.
Cheers,</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Hey Riff,
If you want longer battery life then wire the two batterys in parellel not series. Increasing the voltage and adding more resistance won't get you more battery life. However, your correct in adding a resistor to limit the current if the device is rated for 10mAmps; LEDs or diodes have a fixed voltage drop across the device of 0.6volts so you'll need an extra resistor to maintain 10mAmps and (2.4V over R1 for 3V or 5.4V over R1 for 6V).
Hope this helps
03-07-2003, 01:59 AM
#26
Racer
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I already posted this (regarding the necessity of a resistor) on another of the fifty key-copy threads that have popped-up overnight...but I'll post it again.
I'd like to see somebody hold down the button on their key for a constant 100,000 hours. That's only about 12 years straight. I press mine in increments of about 1 second - maybe about four or five times a day. That means the light in my key should be working for another two-hundred THOUSAND years. Hmmm. I think I can live with a half-life from my l.e.d. And I promise, in twelve years, there will be far better diodes, and far better power sources than lithium-ion.
It's not just knowing the math...it's knowing WHERE to apply it.
I'd like to see somebody hold down the button on their key for a constant 100,000 hours. That's only about 12 years straight. I press mine in increments of about 1 second - maybe about four or five times a day. That means the light in my key should be working for another two-hundred THOUSAND years. Hmmm. I think I can live with a half-life from my l.e.d. And I promise, in twelve years, there will be far better diodes, and far better power sources than lithium-ion.
It's not just knowing the math...it's knowing WHERE to apply it.
03-07-2003, 12:12 PM
#28
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Mine just snapped together, you may have to get a razor blade or something thin to get it started, but thats about all there is to it.
03-07-2003, 12:22 PM
#29
Burning Brakes
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Paul,
If you are looking at the emblem on the key head, on the left side of the head there is a small slot. Just press a knife or small screwdriver in that slot and press in and up. It should just pop apart.
If you are looking at the emblem on the key head, on the left side of the head there is a small slot. Just press a knife or small screwdriver in that slot and press in and up. It should just pop apart.
03-07-2003, 10:51 PM
#30
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by ArcticCzar:
<strong>I already posted this (regarding the necessity of a resistor) on another of the fifty key-copy threads that have popped-up overnight...but I'll post it again.
I'd like to see somebody hold down the button on their key for a constant 100,000 hours. That's only about 12 years straight. I press mine in increments of about 1 second - maybe about four or five times a day. That means the light in my key should be working for another two-hundred THOUSAND years. Hmmm. I think I can live with a half-life from my l.e.d. And I promise, in twelve years, there will be far better diodes, and far better power sources than lithium-ion.
It's not just knowing the math...it's knowing WHERE to apply it.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">ArcticCzar, your logic assume devices fail at a linear rate when you increase the device's Icc max.
Unfortunately, devices do not fail at a linear rate especially semiconductors. Try doubling the voltage to your car radio and see it last for a 1.5 years(assume 3 year life cycle for consumer electronics)
<strong>I already posted this (regarding the necessity of a resistor) on another of the fifty key-copy threads that have popped-up overnight...but I'll post it again.
I'd like to see somebody hold down the button on their key for a constant 100,000 hours. That's only about 12 years straight. I press mine in increments of about 1 second - maybe about four or five times a day. That means the light in my key should be working for another two-hundred THOUSAND years. Hmmm. I think I can live with a half-life from my l.e.d. And I promise, in twelve years, there will be far better diodes, and far better power sources than lithium-ion.
It's not just knowing the math...it's knowing WHERE to apply it.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">ArcticCzar, your logic assume devices fail at a linear rate when you increase the device's Icc max.
Unfortunately, devices do not fail at a linear rate especially semiconductors. Try doubling the voltage to your car radio and see it last for a 1.5 years(assume 3 year life cycle for consumer electronics)