Break rotor and pad installation trouble? Help?
#1
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Break rotor and pad installation trouble? Help?
I attempted to install new break rotors and pads on an 86 944 n/a and found what I though was the inability to install the new pads in the process. I had removed the caliper in order to remove the rotor then replaced it with the new rotor of the correct size. I then compressed the break piston completely in order to install the new pads and then did so. This process is very simple because there is no pressure on the break piston as the caliper was completely removed from the car at the time. What I found was that the available space between the new break pads is not enough to install over the rotor??? We then purchased new pads for the same year from Porsche to find that they where the exact same size as the ones that would not fit. I know the parts are correct for the year and the rotor and caliper are stock for the 86 I checked this with the PET and the shop manuals so I guess I am doing something wrong. Can anyone give me the required trick to installing these pads so I don’t feel so stupid? I have installed more than 50 break pads sets in my life but I am completely stumped by this one. Oh just to prevent misunderstanding. I was able to completely depress the break piston with no trouble. As this is only on one side of the caliper I could see that the pad seated completely into the caliper in it’s most depressed possible location. Please assist.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jun 2001
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Not sure this will help, but according to haynes the pads are replaced with the caliper in place. with the resivoir 1/3 full with the resivoir cap off. IF you chased the fluid level down with added fluid as the rotors wore and brake pads you will have to much fluid in resivoir. with the cap on your piston will not be completely compressed.. or will compress enough till you try to insert the caliper? and have it move slightly till you try and fit it over. I would install the caliper and then try and put the pads in from the top as the manual says to..Hope some of this helps..
#3
Burning Brakes
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I am not too sure... Floating calipers???
If so the caliper might not be floating all the way and the mechanism is in need of some cleaning and/or new linings.
Pay attention to the oil level in the reservoir.
This stuff eats paint faster than a regular stripper...
TakeCare
If so the caliper might not be floating all the way and the mechanism is in need of some cleaning and/or new linings.
Pay attention to the oil level in the reservoir.
This stuff eats paint faster than a regular stripper...
TakeCare
#4
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: May 2001
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[quote] This stuff eats paint faster than a regular stripper...
[/QB]<hr></blockquote>
"Regular stripper?" Mae West? Mata Hari?
Jim, or just the girl next door after a half-dozen vodka & prune juices????
[/QB]<hr></blockquote>
"Regular stripper?" Mae West? Mata Hari?
Jim, or just the girl next door after a half-dozen vodka & prune juices????
#5
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I know on my 87 that when installing the rear brakes, the new pads and rotors made it very difficult to fit. With the piston fully depressed I was able to squeeze them in there, but it was a tight fit. Keep in mind that a brief period of wear will give the pads enough space to separate from the rotor properly. Mine had a small amount, but a few hundred miles and it was much better.
#6
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Did my 83 and had the same problem. I had to clean the caliper then fitted the pad on the floating side. Next I took a large rubber malet had applied force to seat the tab on the caliper fully in the slot in the back of the pad. Next I had to wiggle the caliper until I got the other pad to slide in. One trick I found was to put in the pad retaining pins when I seated the tab. This seemed to help line everything up.
Next time I might try replacing one pad them applying the brake to seat the tab then compress the piston and replace the other pad.
Next time I might try replacing one pad them applying the brake to seat the tab then compress the piston and replace the other pad.