theykallmekem

ive been at it for over 5 hours. took 2 different snap ring pliers, removed the distributor cap and wires, moved over a whole bunch of wires and piping, about 3 gallons of cool-aid, and 2 bathes.


WHAT DOES IT TAKE ??!! me singing naked along side the naked cowboy in times square ??!! going to church more then twice a year ??!! TELL ME (cause i surrender )

m73m95

make a run to Harbor Freight and buy some long 90* needle nose pliers.

Then take your dremel tool and grind down the tips of the pliers to a barrel shape with a little notch on the inside.

Takes that snap ring right out .....


well, wait, what direction is it facing? If its facing either the engine or the radiator, I have another option. It involves modifying more harbor freight tools, but with your own blood added

944Ross

I've had the best luck with an awl, bent about 1/2" from the end, and with the tip ground to fit into the clip holes. Spike it into either hole, pull/pry/push that end towards the center, and hook behind it with something to prevent it snapping back in. Finesse doesn't seem to help, assume you'll replace all the pieces anyway...

Mac 86 951

It takes a LOT of patience and something like this helps

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Tech-Pliers...0043420&sr=1-6

Not that exact one, but something like it. The 55mm snap ring is a strong SOB

V2Rocket

KuHL 951

Yep...I still use my ground off 45 deg. needle nose pliers I made 4 years ago. The snap ring comes off 1st time, everytime.

SamGrant951

Same as above, I use a 45 deg set of needle nose pliers. Just grab one of the holes and pull/pry towards the center of the wp it will bend/come out easy.

Van

I had to remove my power steering pump and the hose to the radiator - and reach up from the bottom. Then I got it.

theykallmekem

i bought a snap ring plier set from harbor freight tools (Pittsburgh brand) and those failed. too short and i dont think is strong enough.

that was at 2pm. at 5pm, i went to SEARS to buy a craftsman snap ring plier and that has worked better, i actually got it into the holes. but when i squeeze, it just slips off. but it does move a little bit. i am retired for tonight, ill try again tomorrow. as for now, just reflecting on the day, relaxing, and here are pics so you guys know what the fudge i did.


removed distributer cap wires in an attempt to gain some air.


the view from the bottom, sitting in front of the front passengers side tire. i had to unscrew and move some plumbing so my big hands can fit there. i think i bent the plumbing that goes to the condenser a little bit.........



the circlip holes are on the top of the thermostat, idk if you guys can see them. it use to be in the "3:15" position, not its at the "12:00" position, if you will.


the mess in my garage, just left it there to try again tomorrow. ill wake up early so i can try again. harbor freight tools is near my job, so ill go after work. ill go to work early so i can leave early.


and just for fun, chocolate milkshake !! theres PLENTY for everyone. i dont think this is the oil cooler gasket leaking [only] acting alone.

AND besides spending 80% of my day in the garage, under an oily, anti-freeze humid environment, i stripped my oil drain plug. i have a new one, but i accidentally stripped the original one. the fun continues

EDIT: the reason why im trying to take out the thermostat is so i can just run the car without it. itll keep it from over heating until i buy a coolant/radiator pressure tester. autozone charges 75$ to rent it, id might as well buy it myself. in time, i will. but for now, my solution is this before i move forward with more repairs.

theykallmekem

spencer, that solution is just way to easy. that circlip will NEVER come off, you can use it to tow a truck






....give me

Van

I don't recommend that.

The way the system is designed, there are 2 "routes" the coolant can take. The thermostat is designed to close one "loop" when the other one opens. If you remove the thermostat, I imagine the coolant will take the path of least resistance - which is *not* through the radiator. Thus, it won't run any cooler - maybe even hotter.

schwank

Huh... I have never had any issues using the pittsburgh snap ring pliers from HF to get that ring out.

theykallmekem

thing is it runs hot while it idles, but when im driving at speeds, say 45mph or so for a while, it returns to temperature. so i just had an idea** (lol) to just remove the thermostat to stay cool. (because thats what everyone wants, is to be cool.)

theykallmekem

i used the 45 degree angle pliers, and i can get into the circles, but when i squeeze, they just slip right out. ill go tomorrow after work to buy needle nose pliers from harbor freight and ill walk around nd see if i can find something else i can use. this is a PITA

m73m95

I also do not recommend not running the thermostat, for the reason Van just said.....

If your snap ring is at 3:15, you should be able to turn it with the 45* or 90* pliers, BUT ..... the awl bent to a 90* is the other option I was going to give you (same as 944 ross said)

I had to cut my awl in half, then grind and bend a new point to get to mine.

Keep at it. You'll get it.

Just remember, when you put in the new thermostat, put it in straight up (12:00), and you'll never have another problem taking it back out.