Lifter issues after new webb cam 84 944na
#16
Nordschleife Master
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On the cam alignment.... The thing I think you would find with this is....
If the cam as not aligned correctly, I don't think you could bolt down the tower. If a lobe was pressing down on a valve, and the piston was up, the tower wouldn't go down.... perhaps someone can translate that so it makes sense lol. It all has to be timed correctly, or it wouldn't go back together. Thats why I'm voting for the T-belt being off a few teeth.
The crank moves really easy when its at 0* TDC. Just because it can move back and forth a few degrees without the piston moving. If he even bumped the crank whilst R&Ring the cam tower, he could have very easily moved it, and that would make the T-belt be off a few teeth.
on the mis-matched lifters. It won't cause a problem right now, but it will eventually wear the cam flat.
Lifters spin as the go up and down, so they slide on the lobe of the cam, instead of straight up and down like you'd think. So the sliding pattern is worn in the top of the lifter to match the wear pattern on the lobe of the cam. When you put in a new cam, the wear pattern is different, and causes friction..... a very small amount, but its there. With any new cam, you really should get new lifters.
If the cam as not aligned correctly, I don't think you could bolt down the tower. If a lobe was pressing down on a valve, and the piston was up, the tower wouldn't go down.... perhaps someone can translate that so it makes sense lol. It all has to be timed correctly, or it wouldn't go back together. Thats why I'm voting for the T-belt being off a few teeth.
The crank moves really easy when its at 0* TDC. Just because it can move back and forth a few degrees without the piston moving. If he even bumped the crank whilst R&Ring the cam tower, he could have very easily moved it, and that would make the T-belt be off a few teeth.
on the mis-matched lifters. It won't cause a problem right now, but it will eventually wear the cam flat.
Lifters spin as the go up and down, so they slide on the lobe of the cam, instead of straight up and down like you'd think. So the sliding pattern is worn in the top of the lifter to match the wear pattern on the lobe of the cam. When you put in a new cam, the wear pattern is different, and causes friction..... a very small amount, but its there. With any new cam, you really should get new lifters.
#19
Racer
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Ok here is the deal...
I pulled everything apart and all the springs and cam lobes looked good but not the lifters. so I pulled the lifters and soaked them in a bowl of oil (pumped until I saw no more bubbles). still they are soft. I need a set of solid ones and just call it good. lol. I know the valves are not opening cause I pulled a compression test and only #1 had compression and the lifters on #1 are stiff as a rock. I know for 100% the thing is in perfect time cause I check it like 5 times before I ever turned it over or put the cam on. So if the lifters are **** then it wont open valves or build compression and cause the no start issue... right?
Anyone got some new solid or factory lifters...
I pulled everything apart and all the springs and cam lobes looked good but not the lifters. so I pulled the lifters and soaked them in a bowl of oil (pumped until I saw no more bubbles). still they are soft. I need a set of solid ones and just call it good. lol. I know the valves are not opening cause I pulled a compression test and only #1 had compression and the lifters on #1 are stiff as a rock. I know for 100% the thing is in perfect time cause I check it like 5 times before I ever turned it over or put the cam on. So if the lifters are **** then it wont open valves or build compression and cause the no start issue... right?
Anyone got some new solid or factory lifters...
#20
Nordschleife Master
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Even if they are flat, the valve should open a little.
I bet your new cam has a higher lift, so without the shims and the lifters being flat, its not opening the valves at all.....
Anyone want to agree or disagree with me?
I bet your new cam has a higher lift, so without the shims and the lifters being flat, its not opening the valves at all.....
Anyone want to agree or disagree with me?
#21
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Did you ask the Webb? I find it hard to believe a reputable cam maker would not offer good avide one what lifter you should use. You can't just throw in solid lifters if there is no way to adjust clearances.. I just don't see how that would work with the 944 cam box design.
#22
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Oh and there is no possible way that mixing lifters will have any drastic effect on engine operation. It might have some long term effect on cam or lifter wear but I doubt it would be significant. I replaced a few soft lifers several years ago with new ones. Old cam/new lifters, a bad combo too? I don't think so.
#23
Drifting
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Web Cam offers one grind for the 8v 944.
Lift is .480/.480. Factory is something like .474/.432 i believe (not 100% sure though).
You should not have any problems using this cam with factory lifters.
For those wondering about performance, its a great improvement.
Lift is .480/.480. Factory is something like .474/.432 i believe (not 100% sure though).
You should not have any problems using this cam with factory lifters.
For those wondering about performance, its a great improvement.